Solid Flat Tappet on Hydraulic Cam?

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xLURKxDOGx

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Is this a no-no? Ive heard of solid lifters on hydraulic roller cams but not the other way around. I want to go solid lifter on my 360 72 d100 but im not liking what i see as far as the rpm ranges go. Its .40 over 2.02 ported J heads with 3.23. The cam thats in there is a summit 1789.

Thanks.
 
No No in my book.
I figured as much but got to check from the pro's first. I know the face profile is different between them both and i guess maybe theyre the same for roller cams?

Jake
 
the RPM ranges are not really that helpful, I mean almost any cam will operate from idle to 6000.I wish I knew how they make those numbers up,But so far I haven't been able to figure it out.
The .050 numbers will usually tell you pretty close where the cam is gonna make peak power. From there you have a pretty good idea how much higher you are gonna need to twist it to make it work with your transmission ratios. As to the lower end of the range, this is highly dependent on the Scr and cylinder pressure, as well as how you couple it to the chassis.A hi-stall and gears can turn a dog combo into a race-horse.
The thing I like about solids is there is no guessing as to when the valves are on the seats; nor is it 20/30* on down from the advertised. So, on a low-compression engine, you can still build some reasonable pressure.
Hope this helps

I have put solids on factory cams (340 and 318) with no problems.
I have NOT put hydros on any solid lifter cam.
 
the RPM ranges are not really that helpful, I mean almost any cam will operate from idle to 6000.I wish I knew how they make those numbers up,But so far I haven't been able to figure it out.
The .050 numbers will usually tell you pretty close where the cam is gonna make peak power. From there you have a pretty good idea how much higher you are gonna need to twist it to make it work with your transmission ratios. As to the lower end of the range, this is highly dependent on the Scr and cylinder pressure, as well as how you couple it to the chassis.A hi-stall and gears can turn a dog combo into a race-horse.
The thing I like about solids is there is no guessing as to when the valves are on the seats; nor is it 20/30* on down from the advertised. So, on a low-compression engine, you can still build some reasonable pressure.
Hope this helps

I have put solids on factory cams (340 and 318) with no problems.
I have NOT put hydros on any solid lifter cam.
So its possible to do so but at what cost is what im trying to figure out. The only basic solid cam that summit shows is 1800-5800 and is 224/224 at .50 which would be a little slower with the 3.23 i would guess.

Jake
 
Frankly, I see no up-side to using the incorrect lifter for the type of cam being run...... especially on a mild street or street/strip build.

If you want to run a solid lifter cam, just buy one that’s correct for the application.
 
From experience... when i was in high school, I had a 409 Chevy Impala with a solid cam. My dad wanted to put hydraulic lifters on it so i wouldn't have to adjust valves all the time. What happened was it wiped every lobe flat. A hydraulic cam was then installed.
 
So its possible to do so but at what cost is what im trying to figure out. The only basic solid cam that summit shows is 1800-5800 and is 224/224 at .50 which would be a little slower with the 3.23 i would guess.
Jake
I don't know anything about Summit cams, but
a 224/110 cam will peak at about 5200. With a standard TF, it will want to rev to ~5800 on the 1-2 shift, ~5600 on the 2-3, and trap around 5400. I wouldn't want to run it with an 1800TC and 3.23s mind you. But a 2400 should be plenty of TC, in a streeter.
My 223/230/110 revved freely to 7000 with Eddies and 10.9Scr. I cruised that sucker in double overdrive at 65=1580, and she got 32MpgUS. That cam was a dump-it-and-go deal with 3.09x3.55= 10.97 starter gear. I mean monster SBM torque. She wouldda been fine with a lot less starter gear. But I had the overdrive, so it didn't matter.
Mine was a hydro cam, but a solid would probably make a lil more torque down low.
So I wouldn't put much stock in 1800 to 5800, except that at 1800 with street tires, you can floor it and get sideways right away. I ran a 750 DP on that combo, and floored it practically right off idle.
With non-Magnum iron heads I'd want a good 6 or 8 more exhaust degrees tho.
You know, I gotta tell you something; that cam was so torquey, I used to break the 295s loose with the line-loc on (didn't take much), and then idle down, and down, and down until almost at idle, and the tires barely rotating but moaning real sweetly. Or, I would crank the wheel hard over, slip the clutch out in second, and get the car rotating in 360s; again dropping Rs, until just above idle. What a hoot! Best cam I ever had!
I think you have to watch Summits tho, They do not rate their advertised durations, IIRC, at .008 or .006 like other cam companies. This does not affect their power because all cams of similar .050s and lift, are gonna make similar power, but it does affect the idle and cylinder pressure, AS COMPARED to other cams of same .050 specs. And any time you loose cylinder pressure off idle, you loose the low-rpm/low-speed torque.
I would maybe peruse some of the more popular brands like; Lunati, Comp, Howards, etc, cuz there you might find faster ramps or tighter lash designs. It kindof depends on how much Scr you have, to play with. My cam was Hughes, and was advertised as a fast rate of lift. I don't know what they mighta compared it to to be able to call it that, but it really wasn't that fast.lol. It was rated at .008 so not comparable to Comps which are .006,at least the ones I have looked at. BUt it didn't matter cuz I had the 10.9 Scr to play with.
If that Summit is a hydro, check out the advertised specs; they could be huge, IDK. That will kill some bottom end, cuz as you know the engine can't start to make pressure until the valves are on the seat and sealed.
But I think you know most, or maybe even all, of this.
Jus trying to help
 
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A hydro roller has no "entry ramp": its designed to open and close with no lash obviously. A mechanical has ramps on the lobe that slowly come up onto the lifter, then open it quickly and then set the valve back down, easing it onto the seat and then taper off to lash. If you could visualize the lobe as a hill, the mech would have a longer run up to the lift portion, while the hydro would just go right into it. If you put a hydro lifter on a mechanical cam, it would fully seat very late and start to open very soon in the cycle. Would probably burn a valve as the valve would not be on the seat for long at all.
 
Thanks to everyone for the realist answers to my question. Looks like I’m going to be doing more research from a few different cam companies.

Jake
 
Put the Mopar 528 cam in it. That's a great solid.
 
I agree with Rusty. I have ran that cam in small and big blocks. I have also changed lifters from solid to hyd and hyd to solid with no I’ll effects. Do a search for IQ52, he has tested cams both ways. He is 1 of the best in the biz. Kim
 
If you want something with low end, youll' need to call for that.
Ive been looking at a bunch of different regrinds from Oregon Cams. Care to give any opinions on these?

718 209/209 405/425 114 LCA
574 221/230 419/438 110 LCA
818 212/212 431/431 110 LCA
609 20/208 462/465 107 LCA

Jake
 
A decent mid-range grunt cam for a 360 in street truck with 3.23’s would be something like an XE262.
That’s a hyd cam.

If you were looking for something similar to that in a solid lifter cam....... you’re likely going to have to make a call for that, but it would be along the lines of a Comp Magnum 270S(although a more modern version would probably be better).

The XE262 would work with the stock valvetrain, and a spring upgrade.
The solid needs a fully adjustable valvetrain, along with a spring upgrade.
 
Ive been looking at a bunch of different regrinds from Oregon Cams. Care to give any opinions on these?

718 209/209 405/425 114 LCA
574 221/230 419/438 110 LCA
818 212/212 431/431 110 LCA
609 20/208 462/465 107 LCA

Jake
LA Small Block Solid Lifter Camshaft

I'd call and ask about fiddling those specs some, but that's a good cam. Those other regurgitations seem too small and not worth the lash. The heads shine @.400 -.500 lift... you lash those re grinds and you'll be in the .300s lift... with just added duration to compensate. They would work for a 4 door dart, 2 brl 318 great I'm sure...bone stock build.
 
LA Small Block Solid Lifter Camshaft

I'd call and ask about fiddling those specs some, but that's a good cam. Those other regurgitations seem too small and not worth the lash. The heads shine @.400 -.500 lift... you lash those re grinds and you'll be in the .300s lift... with just added duration to compensate. They would work for a 4 door dart, 2 brl 318 great I'm sure...bone stock build.
I liked that Schneider cam. I had picked that one out for my 273 but went with the Isky E4 instead mostly because it had a good following. The Schneider has a bit more hp but less torque. Actually a wash between the two cams.

View attachment 1715303275
 
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solid lifters how are you going to adjust your tappet clearance?
solids work well
stay away from Chevy grinds if you value performance
 
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