Offset ball joint part number?

Out of my 69FSM, I read;
1.375 standard suspension
2.125 HD suspension
IIRC 73s were higher, and 2.375 rings a a bell, but it's been about a dozen years since I quit doing alignments.
A) measure distance from the lowest point of the adjusting blade to the floor, and B) from the lowest point of the steering knuckle arm also to the floor. Subtract B from A, with the result a positive number and at the spec. If you change the height, you need to roll the car back and forth about a total of 7 ft to unload the tires (3.5 each way), Because height changes alter the track width.Steering knuckle arm is Mopar-ese for LBJ
The purpose of the spec is to bring the suspension arms into a position where the caster/camber adjusting window is. When you get outside the window, the alignment tech cannot get decent caster. But worse is the toe-change that occurs as the suspension cycles up and down, which causes the car to wander from side to side. The window is about 1 inch , so plus/minus .5 from the spec.
If you change the ride height after any alignment, you will upset the camber and more specifically the toe; so, back to the shop you go.
On my 68 Barracuda, with 235/60-14 tires, I have found a good street height is 5.75 to 6.0 inches from the lowest point on the K-member to the floor. Try not to compensate for one saggy rear spring, by T-bar preload. I myself install my weight onto the driver's seat, prior to any adjusting. For a city car, I set both sides the same.