Harmonic balancer bolt removal

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fnaramore

fnaramore

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This might sound like a stupid question put before I start putting a lot of torque on it, is the bolt holding the harmonic balancer right handed or left handed bolt? Also, does anyone have any suggestions for removal?
The engine is a 1973 318
 
fnaramore said:
This might sound like a stupid question put before I start putting a lot of torque on it, is the bolt holding the harmonic balancer right handed or left handed bolt? Also, does anyone have any suggestions for removal?
The engine is a 1973 318
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So how did you remove it?? Doing the same this weekend
 
You can also block the flexplate/converter from underneath and use a 1-1/8" socket on a big breaker bar. But if your radiator is out, use the rattle gun.
 
threewood said:
You can also block the flexplate/converter from underneath and use a 1-1/8" socket on a big breaker bar. But if your radiator is out, use the rattle gun.
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Yeah itll be off , unfortunately I dont own an impact drill, going to have to try with a breaker bar. Was fairly easy to come off ?
 
Holy 5 year old thread Batman. They are long fine threaded bolts so be prepared to do some wrenching. I take the lower pulley off first to make it easier. You will need a balancer puller to remove it. What kind of repairs are you doing? Ps, a impact drill is the wrong tool. A impact wrench is what you need.
 
I use to do this before I got a good impact:

Put your ratchet on the balancer bolt and set it parallel to the ground. Put a jackstand under the handle of the ratchet. Hop in, turn the key briefly (the starter has to be in obviously) and it should break loose.
 
a quick tap with an impact of some sort is the only way to easily loosen that sucker - once loose an air ratchet is the best way to remove it - without air you might be able to "beat" the compression stroke with a breaker bar, you will have to do some trial and error to find that right point though (room to work) - get the socket, wrench and breaker bar on there and turn the engine counter clockwise until you feel a solid amount of push back from the engine compression - now holding the bar into the pressure, rap with a hammer on the handle of the wrench/breaker - - this might be enough to crack the bolt loose.. no guarantee ---

NEVER use air to reinstall it.

heres a move I found on the interweb.. you decide if you want to try it.............. or not
 
flyfish said:
I use to do this before I got a good impact:

Put your ratchet on the balancer bolt and set it parallel to the ground. Put a jackstand under the handle of the ratchet. Hop in, turn the key briefly (the starter has to be in obviously) and it should break loose.
Click to expand...

Long ago I watched a guy do similar for a 383 balancer bolt with a breaker bar. Stood the bar straight up and hit the key. Bar hit the frame rail and broke the bolt loose.
Then he starts rooting around in a box of old parts and pulls out an rod cap, a couple bolts and some washers. He used those and the balancer bolt to pull the balancer off.
 
flyfish said:
I use to do this before I got a good impact:

Put your ratchet on the balancer bolt and set it parallel to the ground. Put a jackstand under the handle of the ratchet. Hop in, turn the key briefly (the starter has to be in obviously) and it should break loose.
Click to expand...
get breaker bar on bolt and extend to sit on top of driver frame rail, (or under passenger rail) then hit the key. Its gonna want to swing clockwise so whatever you can stop it with will work.
 
I don't like the idea of using an impact gun either way. If the flywheel/flexplate is not held firm, then all of the opposite impact force is going into the rod bearings. With no oil pressure and thus no film in place, who could think that is a wise idea?
 
nm9stheham said:
I don't like the idea of using an impact gun either way. If the flywheel/flexplate is not held firm, then all of the opposite impact force is going into the rod bearings. With no oil pressure and thus no film in place, who could think that is a wise idea?
Click to expand...
it only takes a tap or two to get it loose if you get to the point that you have to hammer away on that bolt with an impact then something is very wrong
 
nm9stheham said:
I don't like the idea of using an impact gun either way. If the flywheel/flexplate is not held firm, then all of the opposite impact force is going into the rod bearings. With no oil pressure and thus no film in place, who could think that is a wise idea?
Click to expand...

Most of the impact from a gun will go into trying to turn the weight of the crank and flywheel, so there isn't really any impact on rod bearings.

Kind of like hitting an anvil with a hammer, as most of the impact is absorbed by trying to suddenly move the the weight.
To demonstrate this hold something real heavy in your hand and give it a good smack with the hammer.
It doesn't hurt your hand because the impact of the hammer is absorbed by trying to suddenly move the mass.
 
TrailBeast said:
Most of the impact from a gun will go into trying to turn the weight of the crank and flywheel, so there isn't really any impact on rod bearings.

Kind of like hitting an anvil with a hammer, as most of the impact is absorbed by trying to suddenly move the the weight.
To demonstrate this hold something real heavy in your hand and give it a good smack with the hammer.
It doesn't hurt your hand because the impact of the hammer is absorbed by trying to suddenly move the mass.
Click to expand...
The ONLY way this would not put force into the rods is if you did this and the crank did not move at all. Not going to happen. You have to compute the rotational moments involved to get to the split between where the forces go and know the real answer. And if the engine is on the stand with no flywheel or TC attached.. there goes that mass. IMHO, bad advice...
 
nm9stheham said:
The ONLY way this would not put force into the rods is if you did this and the crank did not move at all. Not going to happen. You have to compute the rotational moments involved to get to the split between where the forces go and know the real answer. And if the engine is on the stand with no flywheel or TC attached.. there goes that mass. IMHO, bad advice...
Click to expand...

My point was that the initial shock of the impact is largely absorbed by the weight of the crank, and then whats left over is transferred to the rods.
Very little actual shock is left, and what is left gets transformed into rotational energy.
There is WAY more impact than that on the rods and bearings when a cylinder fires than you could ever put on them by using a hammer to take a balancer bolt out.
 
All you have to do is stop the flywheel from turning. Big old screwdriver or a prybar wedged in the ring gear is enough. Done it a million times. As stated before, an impact gun or long-handled ratchet will easily break that bolt loose.
 
nm9stheham said:
With no oil pressure and thus no film in place
Click to expand...
I always respect your knowledgeable/wise replies... but oil doesn't "evaporate" from parts once you shut down the engine. Every bearing
will still have a film of oil, for quite some time.
 
Whats the stress on the rods with an impact? Your only trying to rotate the crank via a bolt that has a break away torque of about 250 ft/lbs. There is no resistance on the rods, they are free to move if they wish, even less so than a 'dry' starter cycle.
 
I put my breaker bar on the bolt, one hit with the soft blow hammer it is free, switch to ratchet and remove.
Works in the car of on the stand.


Alan
 
toolmanmike said:
Holy 5 year old thread Batman. They are long fine threaded bolts so be prepared to do some wrenching. I take the lower pulley off first to make it easier. You will need a balancer puller to remove it. What kind of repairs are you doing? Ps, a impact drill is the wrong tool. A impact wrench is what you need.
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IM fixing to replace the cam shaft , timing chain and new aluminum heads. I bought a breaker bar so now its a matter if getting that bolt off, do you which way the engine turns? Just need confirmation (if facing the car, should be clockwise right?) Might even try the "crank method" if I cannot physically remove it. Unfortunately I do not own a impact wrench.
 
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