Timing Marks

Okay so I was looking at my timing because I am running a bit rough and I was wondering what each of the marks are. I can see one in between with no mark I assume is 0 then above and below there is a 10 I assume above 10 atdc and below 10 btdc Then on the upper side there is another mark with no indication what is that? What mark should I be trying to get to? Right now I am slightly above the upper mark indicating 10 degrees.

Sounds like you might have a later-than-1965 timing cover/tab on your car. The '61-'65 timing tab was a separate piece bolted to the driver's/manifold side of the timing cover, and it was marked for 0, 5, and 10 degrees BTDC. Starting in '66 the tab was spot-welded to the passenger/distributor side of the timing cover and some of them have marks for before and after TDC because the Clean Air Package cars specified ATDC timing settings. If your timing tab is on the distributor side of the engine, the lowermost "10" mark is 10° BTDC, and the uppermost "10" mark is ATDC. Try for 5° BTDC as a base timing setting with the engine idling at 700 rpm, the vacuum advance hose disconnected, and the vacuum advance hose nipple on the distributor plugged. You'll need to make sure the mark on the crank pulley is actually aligned with 0° (your central "no mark" mark on the tab) at TDC; the outer ring member of the crank pulley, which has the mark, tends to slip relative to the inner hub member. To check this, stick a straightened-out coathanger wire or similar into the frontmost spark plug hole, and turn the engine by hand (easier with no spark plugs installed) until the wire stops moving upward out of the plug hole. Then check where the mark on the crank pulley is relative to the timing indicator.

You'll also want to check for timing chain stretch. Remove the distributor cap and turn the engine manually with the fan and belt in one direction until you see the distributor rotor begin to move. Then turn it the other direction and watch the rotor; if there's any discernible lag between your moving the engine and the rotor turning, the timing chain is slack and will want replacement. It makes sense at that time to do a super-careful job of getting the camshaft timed precisely to optimise your engine's operation for economy. Details are in multiple threads and you can be pointed at one if your engines appear to need this sort of attention.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

I am not sure I have a later timing cover. The marks are on a metal tab that is floating at about north east of the crank pulley on the drivers side. I don't think my timing is to far off as the car runs pretty good at normal speed. It only runs rough at low speed and idle to acceleration.

I was really trying to find where on the tab the marks should be lined up. I have checked the TDC is in the right place and there is no noticeable slack in the timing chain. Anyways as I said right now timing is just above the 10 degree mark.

As for the economy I am getting pretty decent gas mileage. Somewhere around 20 MPG.

This is a good thread so I wanted to resurrect it. I have a new 1964 Dodge technical service manual. And, I wanted to double check the idle settings which are posted in section 14-5 through 14-6. It lists initial idle mixture screw at 1 turn out. And indicates a curb idle speed of 550 RPM with headlights on and air conditioning on if equipped. Also, fast idle speed listing is 700 RPM with a hot engine and screw on lowest step of cam. Are these settings too conservative? These settings apply to the automatic and manual transmissions.

I would say that the factory settings are a good starting point but can, and should be, tweaked to suit your car, engine condition, weather, etc.
One turn out on the carb idle screw will just about guarantee that the car will run and start. Especially after a rebuild on the carb or engine. The idle speed can be adjusted up or down to what the engine wants.
The suggested timing is ahh, conservative.

FWIW, my personal experience with a completely rebuilt 225 is sweet. I can easily idle at 500 rpms or lower if I want to. I think I cranked it way up to 550 as recommended just to experience it as Chrysler intended. Mine is a naked stick shift, no power brakes or steering and no A/C.
Its plenty cool with the top down.

OEM tuning specs were for real GASOLINE. A little higher base timing helps with todays "puppy pee" for fuel.