Custom duals to y pipe

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RustyRatRod said:
No it doesn't. Auto manufacturers were downsizing tailpipes before he was born. He's no end all be all. The reason it was done is because of gaining more space for moving rear suspension parts. It doesn't unlock any "secret" power. I don't care who says it.
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Sorry Rusty, Without getting Emotive, I'll have to disagree on your last sentence: Going to a smaller tailpipe on most daily OEM drivers can and DOES boost off-idle & low end torque.Period.
The OEM manufacturers, even WITH plently of non-interferance space, wouldn't have built them, without good reason, other than too of a byproduct you mention of quieting exhaust down.
I've had a lot of experience in l6 exhaust systems, both street & race (to the extent of building my own turbo mufflers from muffler manufacturers cases & Caps, before they were ever avail in New Zealand, like my Dad before me, making Glasspacks) & its been proven, in mild/many applications smaller is better.
Also case in point with these Cast Aussie hyperpack clones, I can tell you right now, from past experience before they were a twinkle in casters eye, that 90-95% of the Power increase comes from the SPLITTING of the 2 head pipes & there's a Magic # for the length, quite long for the Pair, 2" is best I learnt in the 70's & on a Dyno you run a pair of 2" pipes under & out the side with a stripe of enamel white house paint run down their lengths: where it stops burning, smoking & really changing color is the best merge point.
About 6'-8' ea depending on the Cam etc. For a 225" 2.25" dia anywhere in its system is more than enough or you loose flow velocity.. Same for the latest flowmaster type drone-boxs - a pair of suitably sized Glasspacks have proved their worth.
Australasia Grew up on hot worked 6's...
Been there, done that since making 2 stroke DG/FMF type 2 stroke expansion chambers as young teen ( cause you couldn't buy em) & hot tube pipes/mufflers for the 4 stroke bikes when a welding torch wasn't too heavy to hold & worn out std too expensive to repl. Etc.

You can run with your Big bores but some know better, all due respect given.
Thanks My friend.
 
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Slantsix64 said:
Still debating on where to connect the Y pipe at, Before or after my torque shaft Z bar, Pishta i found that article from Pete Hagenbush recommending to run the two pipes from the split manifolds 6 to 8 feet before connecting them to a Y pipe. Probably will try that out so how it works out for me keep you guys posted
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Nope & yes...You want to run those 2 x 2" pipes as far back as practical where you can run BOTH pipes into a Reversed mid 90's Chev Caborala (sp) Van Walker Oval Glasspacks turbo remake 1 in 2 out , Like the AUST 1965 Holden l6 "X2" Twin Carb, Split Exh GM 6 & the Later 186S (which merged the tubes shorter in a Y )...
The walker muffler is about $28 has a nonrestrictive core/baffle system & will probably work better & if you want you can run a 2.5" sewer pipe out right to the back, seeing everyone thinks bigger is better,
You heard it here 1st.
Trev
Hey ! Where's my Trolls ??

Just loaded up that mid 2000 5.7 Chevy Van muffler Detail IF you'd like convenience of feeding both 2" header pipes into something substantial for a proven method: I've given 1 of these Walker mufflers the once over & true Turbo muff type, Glasspacks & freeflow & reversed muffler gives you 2 x 2" I.d. tubes & 1 x 2.5" outlet & pettycash cost, aluminized too with warranty..
Should give nice mellow exh note.

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Slantsix64 said:
What I have noticed right off the bat, car revs up higher faster, car is running lean and pops, need to enriched the mixture with better metering rods,Too soon to tell about mileage and power. Cost 120 to have the pipes made, 60 for y pipe 200 for the manifolds less than 400.00 for the whole set up. Sure beats paying almost 400 shipped for the front casting only.
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!!!??? (Good deal) BUT CAN'T you Fellas BUY new Tube Headers For Slant 6's in the States Anymore ???...
 
high.rev.trev said:
Sorry Rusty, Without getting Emotive, I'll have to disagree on your last sentence: Going to a smaller tailpipe on most daily OEM drivers can and DOES boost off-idle & low end torque.Period.
The OEM manufacturers, even WITH plently of non-interferance space, wouldn't have built them, without good reason, other than too of a byproduct you mention of quieting exhaust down.
I've had a lot of experience in l6 exhaust systems, both street & race (to the extent of building my own turbo mufflers from muffler manufacturers cases & Caps, before they were ever avail in New Zealand, like my Dad before me, making Glasspacks) & its been proven, in mild/many applications smaller is better.
Also case in point with these Cast Aussie hyperpack clones, I can tell you right now, from past experience before they were a twinkle in casters eye, that 90-95% of the Power increase comes from the SPLITTING of the 2 head pipes & there's a Magic # for the length, quite long for the Pair, 2" is best I learnt in the 70's & on a Dyno you run a pair of 2" pipes under & out the side with a stripe of enamel white house paint run down their lengths: where it stops burning, smoking & really changing color is the best merge point.
About 6'-8' ea depending on the Cam etc. For a 225" 2.25" dia anywhere in its system is more than enough or you loose flow velocity.. Same for the latest flowmaster type drone-boxs - a pair of suitably sized Glasspacks have proved their worth.
Australasia Grew up on hot worked 6's...
Been there, done that since making 2 stroke DG/FMF type 2 stroke expansion chambers as young teen ( cause you couldn't buy em) & hot tube pipes/mufflers for the 4 stroke bikes when a welding torch wasn't too heavy to hold & worn out std too expensive to repl. Etc.

You can run with your Big bores but some know better, all due respect given.
Thanks My friend.
Click to expand...

Opinion respected, but without dyno number either way that's all either is. An Opinion.
 
high.rev.trev said:
!!!??? (Good deal) BUT CAN'T you Fellas BUY new Tube Headers For Slant 6's in the States Anymore ???...
Click to expand...
Ain't that east for early a body only clifford makes them 500 bucks which it not a problem the problem is I would have to get a new intake as well that is water cooled which clifford sells, offenhauser intake which I have will not provide some heat to my manifold. Probably in the future I'll change over to the water cooled intake and headers by clifford, Larrys a great guy and I know first hand how great clifford products are.
 
high.rev.trev said:
Nope & yes...You want to run those 2 x 2" pipes as far back as practical where you can run BOTH pipes into a Reversed mid 90's Chev Caborala (sp) Van Walker Oval Glasspacks turbo remake 1 in 2 out , Like the AUST 1965 Holden l6 "X2" Twin Carb, Split Exh GM 6 & the Later 186S (which merged the tubes shorter in a Y )...
The walker muffler is about $28 has a nonrestrictive core/baffle system & will probably work better & if you want you can run a 2.5" sewer pipe out right to the back, seeing everyone thinks bigger us better,
You heard it here 1st.
Trev
Hey ! Where's my Trolls ??
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I ran them back about 4 feet into a y pipe, and helped a bunch I do feel and increase in both torque horsepower and mileage was worth every penny
 
Slantsix64 said:
Ain't that east for early a body only clifford makes them 500 bucks which it not a problem the problem is I would have to get a new intake as well that is water cooled which clifford sells, offenhauser intake which I have will not provide some heat to my manifold. Probably in the future I'll change over to the water cooled intake and headers by clifford, Larrys a great guy and I know first hand how great clifford products are.
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$500 Smackers (ouch) & Clifford only 1 who makes them ? Are they gold plated ??!...
That price is up because of exclusivity, same for cams..
Encl is NEW sample Set of longer branch 4-1 , 16 gauge tube, 3/8" Flanges ...
Slant /6 ones are similar but quite long branch: 2 lots of 3 - 2 - 1 . You can always make a water box up or take a takeoff tube for manifold heat..may not need it if not in the snow belt.
Cheers.

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high.rev.trev said:
$500 Smackers (ouch) & Clifford only 1 who makes them ? Are they gold plated ??!...
That price is up because of exclusivity, same for cams..
Encl is NEW sample Set of longer branch 4-1 , 16 gauge tube, 3/8" Flanges ...
Slant /6 ones are similar but quite long branch: 2 lots of 3 - 2 - 1 . You can always make a water box up or take a takeoff tube for manifold heat..may not need it if not in the snow belt.
Cheers.

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Yup 500 bucks, that's why made my own, and had the exhaust done including the y pipe, less than $400 for it all. Those headers look nice but no way would they work in an early a body manual transmission.
 
high.rev.trev said:
Not when Lap times get undercut and/or broken ..plus you don't really drive a Dyno: in practice they only tell 1/2 the story...
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Again, it is your opinion without proof. Lap times/strip times/dyno runs. That's proof. Our word is not. It's only opinion.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Ain't that east for early a body only clifford makes them 500 bucks which it not a problem the problem is I would have to get a new intake as well that is water cooled which clifford sells, offenhauser intake which I have will not provide some heat to my manifold. Probably in the future I'll change over to the water cooled intake and headers by clifford, Larrys a great guy and I know first hand how great clifford products are.
Click to expand...

Clifford headers are not 500 bucks. They are 379.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Yup 500 bucks, that's why made my own, and had the exhaust done including the y pipe, less than $400 for it all. Those headers look nice but no way would they work in an early a body manual transmission.
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No they wouldn't fit - they're a Sample example set of 4cyl Datsun Headers !...
Cheers again.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Again, it is your opinion without proof. Lap times/strip times/dyno runs. That's proof. Our word is not. It's only opinion.
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Fact, not "opinion" yours may be opinion & keep pressing home that mindset but when your in the midst of prior & mid race, Race tuning, the LAST thing on your mind is a PowerPoint presentation..
Ta all the same.
T
 
high.rev.trev said:
Fact, not "opinion" yours may be opinion & keep pressing home that mindset but when your in the midst of prior & mid race, Race tuning, the LAST thing on your mind is a PowerPoint presentation..
Ta all the same.
T
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No, until you post proof, it's opinion. You missed that in grammar school I guess.
 
Yeah, those are the Pacemaker headers. They are nice, but no guarantee they fit on LHD cars and 600 buck shipping to the states. That's a NO on both counts.
 
Well, I'll give YOU a NO on both points ! 1/ I'm a qualified investigative Jurno published author & I saw your Myopic "opinion' but I'm sorry the breaking of lap record for the class by 2 SECONDS, where unlike the drags they Don't hand out E.T. cards in the heat of Racing, your pedantic request is destined to go knowhere: how long is a piece of string. ...
& 2/ All due respect: BUT you aren't as knowledgeable or factually correct as you THINK you are; Headers Pic'd Certainly AREN'T 'Pacemakers' far from it ! ( they are MINE !! )
& what have you been smoking ?? Even IF they were, you couldn''t Buy, Ship & pay tax's/land them for $600...! Unless you popped in cargo hold as unaccompanied baggage (& I've been over 4 decades at it, importing/exporting etc)
Interesting without even fully taking in what's pictured in front of you, your quick to run them down by claiming wouldn't fit etc....( How would you know ??) Always someone who knows better with a well polished crystal ball.
& NO they aren't frigging copies/knockoffs ( before some Troll pipes up).
T

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OP, I'm glad you followed your sense, and were rewarded with performance. Cheap fix to the anemic oem solution. Happy HotRodding.
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Dual 3inchers and 3-pass muffs are pretty good heatsinks. By the time the exhaust comes out at the bumper, it's barely warm.
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Does my engine need dual 3s;no. But my meager 61* overlap period needs the headers to be working tip-top, so the less back-pressure the better.
I love mashing the pedal, and instantly waking the dead, with fire, smoke, and screaming tires; what a rush. I got gears for torque multiplication, as it should be, cuz in a streeter it's a two gear buzz at the best of times.
Do I need a 367HO?; not hardly, but it sure is fun.
Jus saying.
 
This is an excellent summary.
Killer6 said:
It's a common theory based on the premise(factual) that the gasses cool and shrink as they progress thru the system, the longer and more convoluted, the more the "heat exchanger" contracts the gasses. Go to Burns' exhaust site, They stated that any exhaust past 5' long costs power regardless of size design etc. The fact, from a performance standpoint, is that a longer system has a higher frictional factor that gets worse with higher velocities. Bigger is better. The "backpressure" myth has validity in some cases when the torque was boosted by the velocity in the system, or the A/F ratio changed in an unfavorable direction w/a big reduction.
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As always with the exhaust, there's several things happening at once. However the one being discussed here, the mass flow of the exhaust gases, is the most important. Harmonoics are a consideration but Calvin Elston calls the gas flow "king".
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He's been pretty generous in sharing his experiences. To the topic at hand here, this is one about merging to a single tailpipe.
Flowmaster Outlaw muffler - anti-reversion? - Page 3 - Speed Talk
followed up by Glen Urban on the next page
Flowmaster Outlaw muffler - anti-reversion? - Page 4 - Speed Talk

and dyno comparison in this one, halfway down the page.
2017: Revisiting 4:2:1 vs 4:1 headers w merge collectors in the modern era - Page 4 - Speed Talk
You'll need to log in to see it.
 
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Slantsix64 said:
Looks like on a early a body four speed it's too tight to put the flowmaster y pipe 2.25 to 3inch, looks like I'm gong to just have them do a custom y pipe 2.25 to 2.25 spliced in a custom y done by the muffler shop.
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2" intermediates Works OK on these Slant /6 (which I've been hesitant to post)...$399+ freight for the Clifford's. These you might get some interest/info from seeing ? IF anyone wants a Set I have NO problem sending them Stateside, Even sectioning them up strategically to make a smaller shipping Package, even Considering just making the 2 x Top Pair SETS avail, So you Can flange/Expand the INTERMEDIATE Tubes & extend, Y merge or pair off into true duals to your hearts content ..
( IF your really really nice to me I may consider further getting some 60's/70's tried & proven mothballed /6 Alloy Inlet manifolds recast up again, after a long sojourn, I know where masters ended up (after original speed equipment owner/designer ran into heart troubles - hyper style AFB type 4bbl, 3 x SU's 1bbls, & twin 1bbl down, offy style , triple side weber too from distant memory)
NO trollers, I won't Cough & disclose whereabouts et-al fear of hoodoo'ing idea etc...I didn't come down in last shower...

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I have Clifford shorties and put a Y off of that immediately to a 2.5” all the way out going through a black widow muffler.
 
lilnoah said:
I have Clifford shorties and put a Y off of that immediately to a 2.5” all the way out going through a black widow muffler.
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Yes, you can do that & did, but how LONG & what DIA."'s were/are the x 2 intermediate pipes ?? ,.& 2.5" dia all way back is V8 size: there's quite a large increase in crosssectional area going from 2" to 2.25" & even more going up from 2.25" to 2.5" ..Sure you'll get a bellowy exh note , do you want just as we used to say: " All blow, but less go..." ?? ( not raining on your parade if you're happy ) only thing with the Clifford 'Shorties' is the big mismatch from the primary tubes merger to the too big, TOO SHORT Collectors - there's no real science involved, more fitting convenience + the primary tube area to collector tube AREA is such s FLOW MISMATCH. IF you opened up those headers it'd make the right noises but hazzard an educated guess it would be be flat as pancake with topend misfire...there's a GOOD reason why the LONG TAPERED COLLECTORS are on mine...
But hey, I won't lose. Sleep over it, but reminds me of the Hooker super competition headers with their big tube (So it must be good) with generally mismatched primary tube to collector dia ratio + their high price ( Which MUST make them even better right ??).


NB: Check the COLLECTOR DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CLIFFORD BLACK & MY RED SET: The pipe Dia", with 2.5" Tube Bolted on, Would have the gas's Velocity especially in the low end driving range, eg 2
92:1 diff's, would have gas's speed falling on its face - I would taper that big TOO SHORT OVERSIZED Collector down to 2" outlet (& tubes Dia ") with maybe set like in pic example. Which can be had in 2" dia outlets....
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I can say that I have plenty of power. Does that mean it is efficient as it could be I don’t know? I’m not racing so for now I got what I want. If I need to change I know where to look.
 
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