Leaking water pump... But not at weep hole.

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BB73Challenger

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Hi everyone...

I figured I'd like a little feedback regarding my Barracuda and a leak that has sprung up.

1st, the car is a 67 Notch with a near bone stock 273.
I have added a Champion aluminum rad and a small block Mopar clutch fan. It also runs a 185 t-stat.
The cooling system now has run great the past season with the rad and fan upgrade.

The reason I mention those 2 adds is because I had been battling a low speed/idle overheating condition that looked due to build up in the original rad.
While attempting to unsuccessfully clear that while in the car, I also did several different style flushes to clear it, but with no real effect.

So on to the leak!

I developed a leak at the water pump and due to a trip I'm planning to Carlisle I thought let's just replace everything.

Now, my question is in your opinion, am I just throwing good money away at replacing something that's not bad, because now I'm thinking it's just the gasket that's between the pump and housing that has gone south maybe due to the repeated system flushes.
Obviously, getting it off and taking a good hard look at it will give more info, but what do you all think?

Change the water pump out while I'm in there?

Or save that money and buy something else that I really could use?

Thanks for your time and input!

20190324_083250.jpg
 
Pull the pump and change the gasket. Do not be tempted to get a new alloy pump as they are from 1970 up and you will need to change many things. New gasket and gasket glue. Easy. A few hours.
 
You've already got it off do yourself a favor and just put a new one on and then you'll know what you've got! It's cheap insurance and peace of mind!
 
You've already got it off do yourself a favor and just put a new one on and then you'll know what you've got! It's cheap insurance and peace of mind!

Absolutely!!

If that is the original water pump its over 50 years old! Its served its time, get a new one while everything is apart and enjoy your trip to Carlisle, not worrying if that old pump is about to fail at any time!
 
I had a similar situation. Leaking WP on 67 cuda 273. Running a little warm as well. I installed a165 tstat(I think). Bought a new repop pump for 67.
NEW pump bosses for both the alternator AND ps pump were "off". I had to grind them to get them close to orig.
It throws off both alternator and ps pump pulleys. Be careful. If you can get it rebuilt I would. Or cleanup, reinstall and make sure to rtv bolts going into water jackets. Check timing cover for straightness as well.
 
Whatever you do. Drive it around locally a few weeks before your trip to prove out the repair.
 
If you will replace the cast iron pump, consider ordering the 2 hose nipples new also. On my 67 273, the larger bypass hole had a pipe bushing with a hex on it. It did come out. I had to replace the smaller heater hose nipple with new. It looked to be OEM, wasn't much left of it.
 
All very good points, thank you again all.
I'm aware of the 67 and earlier iron pumps and the later aluminum being different, thanks for a big heads up on what could be trouble with confusing the 2!
The heater hose nipples are another good call...I'm sure most of us at 1 point have tried to not destroy the originals to reuse.
It usually doesn't end well.
My goal is to have everything ship shape so as to cruise the area and prove it all out.
We should start seeing some warmer temps now and excited to get it going!

Thank you all again for the ideas and input!!
Jeff
 
If you have to add a pipe bushing to the larger bypass hole, it will change the height of the nipple. Thus altering the bypass hose length may be req'd.
I bought a new bypass hose too when I did the water pump. The one on the car had been trimmed to fit because a bushing had been used. I had to trim the new on too. Just slowly remembering details. I guess you know to put a piece of heavy cardboard or something in front of the radiator. Slightest bump from a fan wrench or anything can knock tiny hole in these fragile old radiators.
 
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