vivivivivibration

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did some reading on some other threads about spark plug gap and the thoughts are mind blowing.every thing from .035 to .060,guess i'll go with .045 and see how it goes.
 
Looking at the K member passenger side mount, I think this is the mount they have to slide forward 1 inch when going from a 6 to a V8 on a 6 cyl K member. If you look closely at the position of the passenger side engine mount bracket in the K you can see the old weld marks at the top when it was welded in for the 6.

Guessing they cut that mount bracket out, ground the K member clean, ground the engine mount bracket straight and clean of the old welding, not realizing they removed material from the height of it, slid it forward in the K and it naturally would drop down a bit following the curve of the K and they welded it in. Think this might be the reason the engine is sitting in there crooked. The Driver's side looks stock yet.

Wonder if the previous builders took the time to put the V8 Torsion Bars in it. Numbers on the back of the torsion bars should be something like .890 / .891 or .892 / .893
 
did some reading on some other threads about spark plug gap and the thoughts are mind blowing.every thing from .035 to .060,guess i'll go with .045 and see how it goes.

I didn't see if you mentioned earlier but what kind of ignition system do you have? I gapped my plugs to .045" with a Mallory CD (same as MSD) setup, it could handle a bit more but there's not a lot to be gained from more plug gap. I'd go with .040" if you have points or stock-type electronic ignition just to make sure you don't get any misfires or wear out the coil.
 
update for anyone following.pulled tranny,p.p. flywheel.bought new,took to mechine shop and had him balance both.we checked the old one I pulled,flywheel out 5 grams,p.p. out about 30 grams.put it all back together and no noticeable difference.took it by my buddy's shop and he got in and started it up,said it felt just like it did with the other motor in it.He looked it over for a few minutes,said the first thing he would try was putting on a pancake mount and get rid of the solid mount it had on the left side.said a lot of guys us them because the mopar rubber mounts are crap and break easily.so I put on a stock rubber mount,about 70-80% better.280.00 and a lot of work with no improvement,$7.00 fix.might be good thing for guys to know about. THANKS AGAIN:wtf:
 
The lack of a motor mount really.....BTW, OP, if that is a cheap Indian or Chinese made mount, don't count on it lasting. Their rubber varies from questionable to hardened cow dung. IMHO that is real issue with broken mounts....

Try to find an NOS ones for motor and trans, or from a better quality mfr like Schumacher.

Glad you made progress and thanks for reporting back; it will help others.
 
Ah that's a bummer to go through that whole run- around but at least you know the engine is balanced!

I've never tried solid mounts but if I had an issue breaking them I'd just install a torque strap, something with a slight bit of slack so the vibes aren't transmitted. There are also a couple companies that make modified biscuit mounts that don't separate.
 
Ah that's a bummer to go through that whole run- around but at least you know the engine is balanced!
Please don't think I am gratuitously being a wet blanket, but all that is known that is balanced for sure are the external parts that have been re-balanced. Nothing conclusive is known about the internal parts, regardless of the pistons being nominally stock replacement weights.
 
Please don't think I am gratuitously being a wet blanket, but all that is known that is balanced for sure are the external parts that have been re-balanced. Nothing conclusive is known about the internal parts, regardless of the pistons being nominally stock replacement weights.

Shoot my mistake I didn't read closely, I thought he was saying the whole engine was balanced with the external parts added. In which case I agree, the balancing of the engine itself internally could (probably is) still be off.
 
I can't find that either.... IMHO, the soft mount is obviously isolating the residual vibration. On the other hand, none of us keyboard warriors have felt it either so we don't know much more. You can only tell so much through the computer screen LOL
 
engine was built by a engine rebuild factory,:mad:not a engine builder.my machinist said there's a good chance that they didn't balance it.:drama:he said most the time, factory builders would just use the same rods and crank, and the oversize pistons would be within there 10% tolerance.not what I wanted to hear, but it is, what it is.I can live with it the way it feels now.:popcorn:Very slight .
 
That makes a lot of sense.... hard to say what parts they used LOL. I would expect a reman place to grab any set of SBM rods and put them in.... hopefully yours were the correct later heavy rod, but who knows. Early rods 273/318 rods were bushed and about 32 grams lighter on average so they could conceivably have ended up in there with those floating pin pistons. Just no way to know all buttoned up.

The one set of reman rods I checked out had a length variation of .019" !
 
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