Engine install questions

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snowmobiler7c

snowmobiler7c

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This will be my first engine/trans install. I'm working on my 70 swinger currently waiting on new ARP bell housing/flex plate bolts. Once they arrive I plan on installing the smallblock engine/transmission in one piece, in the next couple weeks when I get some free time. I am probably over thinking this but is it possible to install the headers on the engine and lower it all into the chassis or is this impossible and asking for trouble? I previously planned on lowering the engine onto the headers but thought maybe it is a possibility. I have a set of the dougs headers for the car. Also is there any issues installing the starter while everything is out of the car?

Lastly if I fill the convertor with 3qts of fluid and bolt everything up, will I lose the majority of the fluid back into the trans when the engine is tilted on an angle for installation?

Any other suggestions and tips would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Lay the headers in the engine bay.....tie them back....as you drop the engine into the bay you will need to move the headers around....the engine will not go in with the headers bolted to the engine..
 
If Ceramic coated, leave the plastic bags partially on as long as you can, to protect from damage and handprints.
I wrap the bags snugly around the header with masking tape.
 
Man I tried to leave the starter in one time and I'll be damned if I didn't have to pull it back off cuz it got in the way. I thought I could get away with it but I didn't. Like 70 AAR Cuda said I usually ty mine with a piece of baling wire up to the front shock posts. Also I've always just poured 1 quart of tranny fluid in the torque converter? Other people may differ on that. But again like you said pour 3 quarts in and end up with two on the floor lol
 
I agree with EVERYTHING said above. It can be done. I did it when installing the engine in my 69 Barracuda a few years ago. I will add that if the engine bay is painted, you need to protect the paint with blankets or something. Also, I had three helpers. One on each side to wiggle the headers a bit when needed, and one to help me with the engine install. I was able to do it with the starter on, but you have to close one eye and hold your mouth just right.
 
Using an Engine Leveller with your hoist is a big help. I also put (zap strapped) the slip yoke in my tranny to keep the fluid in.
 
I agree with all of the above. And when it comes time to fire it up, put the transmission in nuetral. This will allow the pump to fill the converter. I do this even if my car has been sitting for a couple of weeks.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. Good information, hopefully be able to attempt this next weekend if time allows. I have a couple helpers ready as long as we can all find a common time lol. thanks guys
 
moparmandan said:
So how did it go?
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Install went great. Bolted up trans outside of the car. Installed in 1 piece and lowered it onto the headers. Installed the starter while headers were loose. Some pics show starter but I pulled it off before it was lowered down and reinstalled it. My only issue I noticed was how the motor sat in the k member. I was a little concerned the studs from the mounts did not bottom out in the slots. After leveling the engine and trying to adjust the brackets, they are equal on both sides about 1/8" from hitting bottom of slots. Measurements match factory specs for center measuring off k member and frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. Engine is perfectly level going from front to rear and side to side. Motor and trans are now bolted down. I have quite a bit of work until I fire it up but it ran great on the dyno so only thing holding me back is time. Thanks everyone for your input.

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snowmobiler7c said:
Install went great. Bolted up trans outside of the car. Installed in 1 piece and lowered it onto the headers. Installed the starter while headers were loose. Some pics show starter but I pulled it off before it was lowered down and reinstalled it. My only issue I noticed was how the motor sat in the k member. I was a little concerned the studs from the mounts did not bottom out in the slots. After leveling the engine and trying to adjust the brackets, they are equal on both sides about 1/8" from hitting bottom of slots. Measurements match factory specs for center measuring off k member and frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. Engine is perfectly level going from front to rear and side to side. Motor and trans are now bolted down. I have quite a bit of work until I fire it up but it ran great on the dyno so only thing holding me back is time. Thanks everyone for your input.

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Click to expand...
That was like a tutorial how to put your engine in without ruining the engine compartment and all the parts. Great job!
 
The engine isn't that hard to put in without banging things up, but the headers can be a different story...
 
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