Slant 6 Distributor Hold Down

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cchrishefish

cchrishefish

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I am getting ready to install a new style Chrysler distributor in my 1964 Dodge Dart 225. I would like to buy a modern distributor hold down. Does anyone know where I can buy one?
 
www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37342&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=distributor+holddown&start=0

I learn something everyday....
 
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Looks the same as the small block clamp. Just cut the under side clamp down so it's round like the later clamp and get a small block hold down.
 
I set up my 225 at TDC today with the old school pertronix converted distributor today. The marks line up perfectly on the compression stroke, and the rotor points directly to the number one position on the distributor cap. You may ask yourself, why the hell is this guy messing with his old distributor when he is going to change it out to a brand new electronic unit this weekend. Well, I just wanted a practice run I guess. So, I attached my timing light and my timing mark is facing the sky, or lets say it is at the 12 o'clock position when it should be near the 2 o'clock position closer to the timing scale. So, then suddenly I pulled my head out of my A** because I forgot about the underside distributor adjustment. Now, this distributor was installed by a reputable repair shop so I do not know what to say. But, tomorrow, I am going to connect the timing light up and try loosening the underside bolt to place the old distributor in the proper timing of 8-10 degrees BTDC. then, I will be prepared for the new distributor upgrade. And, yes I did block off my vaccuum lines.
 
I am searching the forums this morning and found this: Slant six timing, loose distributor Am, I wasting my time trying to adjust the underside distributor bolt, and should I assume my old distributor, at least 10 years old, is pretty shot?
 
The 'claw' part that bolts to the block is longer than a small block claw. The mounting place on the block is a little different as well for this style mount. Something can be made to work, but it will not be a simple affair, even if you have the slant six claw. The later 'claw style' does not directly fit the earlier style blocks but the earlier style mounts will work on any block because the bolt hole on the block is in the same place. I have pictures somewhere of the differences. I have a 79 block that was made for the claw style mounts and I prefer that style for the ease of timing adjustments (greater range).
 
Badvert65 said:
The 'claw' part that bolts to the block is longer than a small block claw. The mounting place on the block is a little different as well for this style mount. Something can be made to work, but it will not be a simple affair, even if you have the slant six claw. The later 'claw style' does not directly fit the earlier style blocks but the earlier style mounts will work on any block because the bolt hole on the block is in the same place. I have pictures somewhere of the differences. I have a 79 block that was made for the claw style mounts and I prefer that style for the ease of timing adjustments (greater range).
Click to expand...
Do any other members have a simple solution to this problem? Halifax hops has the round distributor mount and has offered it to me, what can I do for the fork problem?
 
I wonder if you can cut the original one to work as a hold down. Hmm
 
This picture shows how the later clamps fit on the later blocks. If you look closely, you will see the small ledge cast into the block for the claw to rest on. The older blocks (I am uncertain when this started) do not have the ledge and will need some provision to apply leverage or pressure to the distributor ring to effectively hold everything snug.
IMG_1284a.jpg
 
Badvert65 said:
This picture shows how the later clamps fit on the later blocks. If you look closely, you will see the small ledge cast into the block for the claw to rest on. The older blocks (I am uncertain when this started) do not have the ledge and will need some provision to apply leverage or pressure to the distributor ring to effectively hold everything snug.
View attachment 1715314132
Click to expand...
So, I guess I am out of luck? Ok then, when I install my new distributor, I guess I need to use the old bracket. It will be easy to adjust the underside of the bracket witht he distributor off. So, I have to ask, should the underside bolt be adjusted in the center of the slot? I am going to install the new distributor when the engine is at 10 degrees BTDC, as mentioned in the new Doug Dutra book. This is the static method according to the Doctor.
 
I have always just put the underside slot in the middle. Then if I run out of room in the other slot, I just pull the distributor and move it a tooth in the needed direction.
It's a pain, but once you have things in the ballpark, the rest is easy.
 
Badvert65 said:
This picture shows how the later clamps fit on the later blocks. If you look closely, you will see the small ledge cast into the block for the claw to rest on. The older blocks (I am uncertain when this started) do not have the ledge and will need some provision to apply leverage or pressure to the distributor ring to effectively hold everything snug.
View attachment 1715314132
Click to expand...
I am wondering why the Doug Dutra book suggested this without going into detail?
 
I posted the picture to give everyone a clearer view of the later setup. No sense buying all the pieces if they don't really work.
I like the later setup a lot more so than the earlier one, but I have a 79 block and it was made for the later style. The older style works on all the blocks, the later style properly fits just the later blocks.
 
I had a 1969 Dart 225 for decades until stolen in 1994 (before the web). I only learned of the inner lower slot adjustment on FABO. Like post 18, the inner slot was always in the center (from factory) and I was always able to set timing by moving a tooth. It takes a little trial and error because the slanted teeth turn the rotor as you lower it. I even set it several times in a parking lot when I was having issues w/ the nylon gear. I installed it upside down, thinking the lower slot was a drive for the shaft pin (like a V-8 shaft) and it kept popping out. You see a new nylon gear comes w/o a hole for the shaft pin, so you must know to drill one. You used to be able to buy those nylon gears in the Help bubble packs at auto stores, but downside there was no web to tell you how to do things right. You have all the posts from SlantSixDan.
 
cchrishefish said:
Do any other members have a simple solution to this problem? Halifax hops has the round distributor mount and has offered it to me, what can I do for the fork problem?
Click to expand...

I'm still trying to figure out what the problem is. What's wrong with the original mount other than the fact you don't "like" it?
 
You are correct, there is nothing wrong with the original mount. I do not like it because, if you need to loosen the underside slotted bolt, you need to remove the distributor, or buy the special slant 6 distributor wrench, no longer available, to make the adjustment. I suppose an oil filter relocation kit would allow easier access to the underside bolt.
 
cchrishefish said:
or buy the special slant 6 distributor wrench, no longer available, to make the adjustment.
Click to expand...

Just take a 7/16 box end wrench, and bend a 90 degree angle on the end. Instant "special" wrench. Loosen the bottom bolt, slightly, set the timing with the top bolt approx center of slot, tighten bottom bolt. DONE. Unless you change the dist gear, pickup, or reluctor, should never have to touch the bottom bolt again
 
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