Anyone familiar with Cerakote?

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kemikal embalance

kemikal embalance

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Im a Cerakote applicator for automotive parts and firearms. Got bored and disgusted with my rusted keys and my good luck charm and thought about polishing them back. But then I decided what the hell.

For those not familiar with Cerakote, its a ceramic micro thin coating applied to parts and components from aerospace, medical, automotive and the firearm industry. It goes on, when done properly, at .5mil and is extremely corrosion and chemical resistant. Its also the ceramic coating found on pistons and turbos.

Just for fun. Going to do most of the car internals and parts in cerakote as I go through it.

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Out of courisity, how can it be removed if you change your mind down the road.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Out of courisity, how can it be removed if you change your mind down the road.
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I probably will but I don't have silver at the moment and I want to see if I can live with it.

Either way, prep work is to degrease, soak and clean with acetone, sandblast with 80-100 grit garnet sand or competently with aluminum oxide, dust off with air and spray and bake.

so if I you don't like it, sand it or sandblast it off.
 
66fyssh said:
Cool stuff.

Love the P-38!! The last one I had wore through the keychain hole.
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That was a new car good luck charm from my best friend before he went to the corps. I would say I'm surprised how many people don't know what it is, let alone how to use it, but I'm not. That thing got me through trade school and a few family dinners when the cheap Chinese **** broke>
 
Cerakote is good stuff. On firearms or piston coat and microslick. I've gotta have a P38 because I'm not strong enough to squeeze my spinach open like Popeye!
 
mopardude318 said:
Very nice. Do you do work for hire?
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yeah. still have my FFL for a short bit but closed my store in preparation for a move out of state. car parts and stuff like that is no prob. but I'm limited to the size of my oven as to what I can do for cars.
 
kemikal embalance said:
Im a Cerakote applicator for automotive parts and firearms. Got bored and disgusted with my rusted keys and my good luck charm and thought about polishing them back. But then I decided what the hell.

For those not familiar with Cerakote, its a ceramic micro thin coating applied to parts and components from aerospace, medical, automotive and the firearm industry. It goes on, when done properly, at .5mil and is extremely corrosion and chemical resistant. Its also the ceramic coating found on pistons and turbos.

Just for fun. Going to do most of the car internals and parts in cerakote as I go through it.

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What about mopar car bodies? We got a problem here on the east coast!?!
 
greymouser7 said:
What about mopar car bodies? We got a problem here on the east coast!?!
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It can be done. But if one out of a thousand people can paint a car...one out of 100,000 of those is probably good enough to use Cerakote on that big of a surface.
Its not overly complicated however it is not forgiving and it has the consistency of water.

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kemikal embalance said:
It can be done. But if one out of a thousand people can paint a car...one out of 100,000 of those is probably good enough to use Cerakote on that big of a surface.
Its not overly complicated however it is not forgiving and it has the consistency of water.

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That most be the chemical this guy two towns over uses on headers!
 
greymouser7 said:
That most be the chemical this guy two towns over uses on headers!
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could be. theres a few options for exhaust. don't remember what Jet Hot was/uses. Theres a color called glacier chrome that gives a nice finish but my oven won't go that high to cure that one.
 
It is a great product for sure! Being a Marine we always called the P-38 a John Wayne! I still use one today. I swear I can open a can just as fast as a crank opener. Hah! Love the things they are doing on weapons now with the coatings.
 
greymouser7 said:
I got to get into this!
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That bike was an early 90s bmx jumper that my friend picked up literally out of a dried mud hole from an old friend of his. It was rusted and corroded and those are the original parts.
You can see on the crank that Cerakote will show every imperfection. So make sure your metal work is perfect because there is NO primer for this stuff. Straight to metal.

There is oven cure and air cure.

I started this seven years ago with a 20 dollar gun, a used house oven and a harbor freight blast cabinet.

Still have that pos cabinet...

want any advice, just ask. Im semi retired now and waiting till summer to move out of state. Closed my firearm business and turned in all the paperwork. Just tinkering around till we move and Then ill have to build a new booth and get a bigger oven. And a new bigger blast cabinet. Leaky dusty nasty pile of crap.
 
kemikal embalance said:
could be. theres a few options for exhaust. don't remember what Jet Hot was/uses. Theres a color called glacier chrome that gives a nice finish but my oven won't go that high to cure that one.
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what about the air dry stuff is it as good ?
 
Sublime one said:
It is a great product for sure! Being a Marine we always called the P-38 a John Wayne! I still use one today. I swear I can open a can just as fast as a crank opener. Hah! Love the things they are doing on weapons now with the coatings.
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It is a prime example of "they don't build stuff like that anymore"
Firearms was my last business but California and my location didn't work to well and I worked for free most all last year. Just do the cerakote now till we move and rebuild. Learned a lot of lessons in the last couple years. Politics suck!
 
jimjimjimmy said:
what about the air dry stuff is it as good ?
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yes.

how to keep this short...

oven cure is a tad more forgiving in a less than perfect spray environment.
it is stellar in its chemical and corrosion resistance
sucks for UV protection, meaning it will fade in the sun over a period of time
takes 500 degrees before color change
very slick in some of the colors

air cure
very chemical and corrosion resistant
better UV protection
can accept a clear coat in most colors
500 degrees on some colors, 1800 degrees on others


bottom line, if you don't have a specific industry or government requirement for corrosion or abrasion resistance, or you're not taking it into the ocean for long periods of time, air cure is just fine.
if you are going for the low drag low viscosity, silky smooth finish for bearing surfaces or rapid moving parts...oven cure is better
 
This is very cool stuff! thanks for sharing.
I Can't however be the only one that read the title and though "Yeah, I've been known to sing a little Johnny Cash after a few brews at the bar...but I know its spelled with a K!!!!!! lol
 
Johnny Mac said:
This is very cool stuff! thanks for sharing.
I Can't however be the only one that read the title and though "Yeah, I've been known to sing a little Johnny Cash after a few brews at the bar...but I know its spelled with a K!!!!!! lol
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you completely lost me on that.
 
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