Adjustable strut rods... adjustment?

So when I set up my adjustable strut rods I install the LCA's completely with the torsion bars. I use poly or Delrin LCA bushings, so the LCA pivots get torqued. I install the spindles, the UCA's, and all the bump stops. That way you should have the LCA's and the suspension where it's going to be, and you know the range of travel. Then I set the length of the strut rods so that there's no binding when I cycle the suspension through it's range of travel, bump stop to bump stop. That's done with the torsion bar adjusters removed from the LCA's and without the shocks, so you're just working against the weight of the suspension. The idea there is to replicate how the suspension will act when it's on the road. In the past I've also done a rough adjustment with just the LCA's because they're easier to move around than the whole suspension, but I found that bolting up the rest of the suspension changes enough things to make setting it with just the LCA not worthwhile. Plus it can be hard to gauge what the actual range of travel is with just the LCA.

I set my strut rods as short as they'll go without causing any binding at the LCA. That keeps the LCA forward on the LCA pivots (because the poly bushings let the LCA's slide on the pivots), and also may get you some additional positive caster. Free movement of the LCA is the most important thing, but with that set up a little extra positive camber usually comes with.