Need advice cylinder scratches

I kindof agree with Moper
After I built my car, and spent all that money, I couldn't justify running it just in summer. So every fall I would swap in a smogger-teen for the winter. Then I stripped that 360HO down for a look. For the first three winters, I always found potential troubles and upgraded as needed. But the one thing I never found was scratches like that in the cylinder walls. I did that two more winters, without finding any more issues. After that I left the 367 in there, and made it a summer car, because by now she had accumulated enough miles, and I found myself with enough disposable cash,to justify that.
I also agree with the leakdown test. But I would compare the leakage at the bottoms of the bores, with leakage somewhere in the scratch zone. To do this you would have to back off the rocker gear, and you would have to figure out how to anchor the crank in the part-way-up position. And you would not be able to use very much pressure because at 80psi, in a 4.04 bore, you will be generating over 1000pounds of force on top of the piston; I suggest 30ish psi and wait for the air pressure to settle down. I would not use a per-cent gauge but rather use a compression pressure gauge. Because of the small pressures involved,accuracy in reading will be very important. 30psi is ~360pounds of force, and 40psi is just over 500, so use a big fat bar, and do NOT try to hang on to it. I have used the balancer bolt at 30psi, and the bolt survived. I used a valve on the airline to engage the pressure softly.
It's a lotta work, and the results are only as good as your accuracy in reading. for instance, when converting your numbers to percent; a 1 psi error in reading amounts to 1/30=.0333 or 3%! So the point is not to let the percent numbers scare you. Rather the psi differences from bottom to wherever you stopped, and the cylinder to cylinder variation. Did I mention it's a lotta work?
If you couldn't catch a fingernail, as mentioned, I agree with everyone who says just drive it.