1972 Duster Build with my Daughter
Distributor.... Factory original that was pulled apart (not the shaft) and cleaned up. There is zero side to side play in the shaft so I am reusing it...
All the way in the bottom. This is a '73 car so we so some math. The factory ran them around 34 degrees all in on the advance and around 0 at idle so that is 34 degrees of mechanical advance. That says these likely around 17/18 degree weights (divide by 2 since the dizzy spins half as fast as the crank).
I used the softest springs from the FBO kit I bought for the Coronet..
Now the FBO plate that locks the weights to a fixed amount advance (old way was to weld blobs and file them off, this worth every penny it costs). I put it on the "10" mark so that means it will lock it down to 20 degrees of total advance at the crank. So if I want it to run at 34 degrees at high rpm my initial timing will be around 14 degrees. That worked great for the Coronet we will see what it does for this engine.
Not the upper shaft goes in.
Don't forget the bushing! Also you can see the blurry snap ring at the top of the shaft It is what hold the upper shaft on and is a PIA to remove or install....
The snap ring is way down in there.....
The vacuum advance had a lever that pulls in and are usually marked, this one is 11 so that is 22 degrees. If I am running all in at 34 and add 22 I get 56 degrees at cruise.. That is a bit more than I want but we will see how it really works once running.
Next the pickup plate and getting the advance pin in the hole while standing on one foot...
Distributor.... Factory original that was pulled apart (not the shaft) and cleaned up. There is zero side to side play in the shaft so I am reusing it...
All the way in the bottom. This is a '73 car so we so some math. The factory ran them around 34 degrees all in on the advance and around 0 at idle so that is 34 degrees of mechanical advance. That says these likely around 17/18 degree weights (divide by 2 since the dizzy spins half as fast as the crank).
I used the softest springs from the FBO kit I bought for the Coronet..
Now the FBO plate that locks the weights to a fixed amount advance (old way was to weld blobs and file them off, this worth every penny it costs). I put it on the "10" mark so that means it will lock it down to 20 degrees of total advance at the crank. So if I want it to run at 34 degrees at high rpm my initial timing will be around 14 degrees. That worked great for the Coronet we will see what it does for this engine.
Not the upper shaft goes in.
Don't forget the bushing! Also you can see the blurry snap ring at the top of the shaft It is what hold the upper shaft on and is a PIA to remove or install....
The snap ring is way down in there.....
The vacuum advance had a lever that pulls in and are usually marked, this one is 11 so that is 22 degrees. If I am running all in at 34 and add 22 I get 56 degrees at cruise.. That is a bit more than I want but we will see how it really works once running.
Next the pickup plate and getting the advance pin in the hole while standing on one foot...
