Coolant options

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rod7515

rod7515

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What is the name of the coolant that is supposed to run cooler. I'm thinking about trying it. Thanks, rod
 
Don't know about running cooler, I use Evans and it saved my motor one day. It is expensive but in my case worth it
 
I use dextron (orange) or Toyota (purple)

I've used water wetter. Eh....
 
Your engine makes X amount of heat, depending on compression, camshaft, etc. Nothing will make it run cooler. You can improve the heat rejection from the engine into the coolant by having a clean water jacket - clean and rust free. Some have filled their block with EvapoRust to clean it better than a flush. Newer thermostats are the biggest restriction. Look at 1967 thermostats like 2128994. Your radiator may be dirtier in the tubes than you think. Use distilled water and mix it 50/50 with the regular green coolant.
 
I only have a 367HO with perhaps 400hp. I have no cooling problems...... ever.
I started with straight water.Then as the system proved itself, I switched to the 50/50 common coolant. My junk is ancient. The rad is a 73, the block is a 71, and one of the hoses, the lower one I think is from the 73 also. The pump was new in 1999, and I run a 7psi cap.
But I have a manual trans.
Most of the time, that HO is operating at less than 150 hp, go figure..........
 
Don’t want to hijack this thread, but is there a downside to running 70/30? 408, runs at 180, may get to 190 on a hot day. I’ve always mixed 70% distilled water and 30% green antifreeze.
 
I use the universal long life in everything. Due to low temps in winter i keep a 50/50 mix.with the green stuff being good for two years, i prefer the universal stuff.
A note about the pink/orange dexcool. It will turn to mud if added to a previously green system.
It is not compatable with other coolants.
 
The new stuff that is put in modern cars is just the same as the shelf stuff . The diff is that it is biodegradeable . Evans is the best if you can afford it .
 
I have used Saab or Volvo blue it's for pre 90's I think, it's made for aluminum engines non corrosive and the best I have found, I ran it in all my motorcycles dirt bikes as well and we ride deep in the woods slow no air flow and I never had a overheating problem once when others did.
 
Dexcool doesn't like air in the system, weird oxides form, sludge like stuff. That's why lots of the stuff that takes it has the rad cap where it is - away from the radiator.

Zerex G-05 is good modern HOAT coolant that is backwards-compatible. But you should still drain, rinse ( drive for 45 min with flush and water, then again with distilled) and refill if you plan on changing to something different
 
yellow rose said:
-- Use Evans. It's not cheap but it works. --
Click to expand...
-- ?? -- I had a warped, aluminum, head, and no leaks with Evans coolant. Obviously, I didn't know that I had a warped head. -- I lost some Evans due to a radiator leak, and I replaced the Evans with 50-50 water and anti freeze, and the head leaked. The Evans hid the problem. -- I had to have the head re-surfaced (did both heads to match) --
 
Lots of options here and I thank you all for the suggestions. Now heres why I ask. I have a 66 Dart with a 408. Automatic trans with cooler in front of the passenger half of a brand new 3 core aluminum radiator. I have 2, 9" electric fans which are mounted in a shroud that completely covers the inside of the radiator ad is sealed off very well. The fans are pullers and move what feels like a lot of air. I have a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. The motor is fresh and has only been on the road for 7 miles. My temp gauge is an Auto Gage with an actual sending unit that is mounted in the front of the intake in the tapped hole just behind the thermostat.
DSCN2301.JPG

IMAG0401.jpg

So during the first road drive my temp went to 210 on the gauge. When it shoot it with the infra red gage it reads 10-15 degrees cooler. After it sits a few minutes it seems like the carb has flooded or vapor locked. I have purchased a cool plate for under the carb but havent put it on the car yet. My worry is that it was only 60* the night I drove it so I am sure in summer heat its going to get even hotter.
Oh a few other things, the thermostat is a 185*, and the water pump was the one called the sport which was supposed to move more coolant thru faster.
I dont think there is room for a blade fan or a fan clutch.
DSCN0330.JPG
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The water pump did not allow for a larger single fan to be installed as I did try that at first. I did some research trying to find a shorter nose pump but I had no luck. The fans are running with an over ride switch that I turn on as soon as I start the engine.
So Im just looking for a way to bring my temp down as it runs.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Rod
 
rod7515 said:
Lots of options here and I thank you all for the suggestions. Now heres why I ask. I have a 66 Dart with a 408. Automatic trans with cooler in front of the passenger half of a brand new 3 core aluminum radiator. I have 2, 9" electric fans which are mounted in a shroud that completely covers the inside of the radiator ad is sealed off very well. The fans are pullers and move what feels like a lot of air. I have a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. The motor is fresh and has only been on the road for 7 miles. My temp gauge is an Auto Gage with an actual sending unit that is mounted in the front of the intake in the tapped hole just behind the thermostat.
View attachment 1715317311
View attachment 1715317314
So during the first road drive my temp went to 210 on the gauge. When it shoot it with the infra red gage it reads 10-15 degrees cooler. After it sits a few minutes it seems like the carb has flooded or vapor locked. I have purchased a cool plate for under the carb but havent put it on the car yet. My worry is that it was only 60* the night I drove it so I am sure in summer heat its going to get even hotter.
Oh a few other things, the thermostat is a 185*, and the water pump was the one called the sport which was supposed to move more coolant thru faster.
I dont think there is room for a blade fan or a fan clutch.
View attachment 1715317491 View attachment 1715317492 View attachment 1715317493
The water pump did not allow for a larger single fan to be installed as I did try that at first. I did some research trying to find a shorter nose pump but I had no luck. The fans are running with an over ride switch that I turn on as soon as I start the engine.
So Im just looking for a way to bring my temp down as it runs.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Rod
Click to expand...

I think your problem is more that those 9 inch fans and a solid shroud is blocking too much air flow.
I bet if you swapped to the Ford Contour type fans and shroud you would be a lot better off.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I use the universal long life in everything. Due to low temps in winter i keep a 50/50 mix.with the green stuff being good for two years, i prefer the universal stuff.
A note about the pink/orange dexcool. It will turn to mud if added to a previously green system.
It is not compatable with other coolants.
Click to expand...

Yep if you mix orange and green you get brown every time.
 
rod7515 said:
So during the first road drive my temp went to 210 on the gauge. When it shoot it with the infra red gage it reads 10-15 degrees cooler.
Click to expand...
That's probably about right. The outside of the manifold will be cooler than the coolant.

rod7515 said:
After it sits a few minutes it seems like the carb has flooded or vapor locked.
Click to expand...
Seperate issue. Vapor lock will be in the line, not the carb bowl. When driving it will feel like the engine has run out of fuel because very little liquid fuel is making it into the bowl. When an engine is shut off, if fuel in the line between the pump and the bowl vaporizes, it will force the carb inlet open and overfill the bowl. You'll see the fuel coming out the boosters or even vents. Lets make that a different thread.
rod7515 said:
I dont think there is room for a blade fan or a fan clutch...The water pump did not allow for a larger single fan to be installed as I did try that at first. I did some research trying to find a shorter nose pump but I had no luck.
Click to expand...
The pre-70 pump are shorter, but need a radiator with a driver side outlet. Also they're only available in cast iron for what ever reason.
In the photos it looks like there is room for a belt driven fan. Obviously you found otherwise. But maybe there's a differnet fan that will work.
1. Which way(s) did you find lack of clearance? Diameter or for-aft?
2. Was the fan with clutch? a flex unit, or a solid ?

There certainly should be for-aft clearance for a solid fan. A spacer can be used to fine tune the distance so its close enough to the core to be effective. That's what the factory did.
There's a pretty good variety of fans in different diameters, number blades and blade size and depths.
The early mopar fans often have a notch to clear the bubble top radiator tanks. That may not be any help with your tank but something to keep in mind if you need just a bit more clearance at blade tips.

If you want to look at clutched fans, Hayden's 2947 is the shortest available and will need 3" min between the pulley face and the radiator core.
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Water works best and claimed better by several additives in the auto parts that also provide anti-corrosion. Most run water because tracks mandate that, but don't let it freeze and crack your block. I use Evans Waterless in 6 of my 7 cars. It is a mixture of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol (per MSDS), which you might be able to do yourself (later is sold as Sierra Coolant). Cost $43/gal and no more corrosion or need to ever change if you don't lose it. Works good in my 1984 M-B because it has a slight heater core leak, so I run w/ the radiator cap loose so it builds no pressure to leak. Would replace the heater core except that is a 3-day job and the part costs $500. My thought is that if it cools OK today w/ Evans, that is "good enough" and will never change since no corrosion.
 
50/50 is almost as big a fraud as Obama. You're paying for half water. Plus, it's not the same strength as one gallon of 100% coolant and one gallon of water. It's a big ripoff.
 
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