Coolant options

So during the first road drive my temp went to 210 on the gauge. When it shoot it with the infra red gage it reads 10-15 degrees cooler.
That's probably about right. The outside of the manifold will be cooler than the coolant.

After it sits a few minutes it seems like the carb has flooded or vapor locked.
Seperate issue. Vapor lock will be in the line, not the carb bowl. When driving it will feel like the engine has run out of fuel because very little liquid fuel is making it into the bowl. When an engine is shut off, if fuel in the line between the pump and the bowl vaporizes, it will force the carb inlet open and overfill the bowl. You'll see the fuel coming out the boosters or even vents. Lets make that a different thread.
I dont think there is room for a blade fan or a fan clutch...The water pump did not allow for a larger single fan to be installed as I did try that at first. I did some research trying to find a shorter nose pump but I had no luck.
The pre-70 pump are shorter, but need a radiator with a driver side outlet. Also they're only available in cast iron for what ever reason.
In the photos it looks like there is room for a belt driven fan. Obviously you found otherwise. But maybe there's a differnet fan that will work.
1. Which way(s) did you find lack of clearance? Diameter or for-aft?
2. Was the fan with clutch? a flex unit, or a solid ?

There certainly should be for-aft clearance for a solid fan. A spacer can be used to fine tune the distance so its close enough to the core to be effective. That's what the factory did.
There's a pretty good variety of fans in different diameters, number blades and blade size and depths.
The early mopar fans often have a notch to clear the bubble top radiator tanks. That may not be any help with your tank but something to keep in mind if you need just a bit more clearance at blade tips.

If you want to look at clutched fans, Hayden's 2947 is the shortest available and will need 3" min between the pulley face and the radiator core.
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