Another Ammeter bypass question:

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Dusterdenovo

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When connecting these 2 wires together to bypass the Ammeter, I am thinking of just connecting the 2 ring connectors with a bolt, (or a steel rivet?) and heat shrinking it. (Little faith in my soldering skills).

Is there any downside to this approach?

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Thanks FABO!
 
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I put both ring terminals onto one ammeter post to bypass temporarily. All the current still goes through the bulkhead connector though. That's usually where the trouble starts.
 
Actually you haven't done "much" if all you do is hook those together. Yes, you did cure any problems with the actual ammeter, but if you read the MAD article:.......................

Catalog

about "most" of the whole problem (along WITH the ammeter) is the TERMINALS IN THE bulkhead connector. They just plain are not heavy enough especially when using larger alternators/ more accessories

"Ma" knew this, if you read up on the optional 65A police/taxi/ fleet wiring, "Ma" DID bypass the bulkhead connector.........by running heavier wiring through the firewall by means of separate gromments

One thread on the subject, here is the diagram

'fleet/taxi' wiring bypass diagram.

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Yes I used a nut and bolt on my '69 Valiant. Like Del said you should upgrade the wiring through the bulkhead.
 
I also installed relays for the headlights, that cuts down the current flow through the headlight switch tremendously.
 
Use a machine screw and self locking style nut. Yes on the heat shrink and maybe some tape. Putting them on the one terminal still exposes the system to a potential grounding issue.

I'm not a fan of the Mad approach on the rest of it. IMO, run the wire from alt to relay with fusible link and leave all the OEM wiring in place. If the bulkhead needs some fixing up, get that done as well. If bulkhead is in good shape, run it.
 
if you leave the wiring factory, and dont add any electrical components. Is this really necessary to do?
 
Putting them on the one terminal still exposes the system to a potential grounding issue.


Yes how well I know. I reached under the dash to disconnect the speedo cable and my watchband hit the terminal and grounded. It melted the band in 2 and my skin as well. I still have the scars.
 
Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My Bulkhead Connectors have all been dismantled and cleaned up and I am running Crackedback's headlight kit, so I'll leave as is for now but keep it on my radar.

Should have mentioned, I'm replacing the stock cluster with new Speedhut gauges, so the Ammeter and whole works is "outta there".
 
if you leave the wiring factory, and dont add any electrical components. Is this really necessary to do?
No.
But the bulkhead connections should still be checked. Probably will need some cleaning. If they show signs of overheating, then decide from there what ought to be done. If its the alternator feed (the wire that supplies the alternator's output), then running a parallel wire through a grommet to the ammeter's alternator stud will take the load off that connection.
Also, in my experience, the headlight wiring in the A-bodies was barely adequate for the newer higher wattage headlamps introduced around '73. Thin wires and lots of connections in that circuit. I've had breakers trip, and connectors melt. Maybe '76 is OK - a lot of changes that year. Using relays drawing power right from the alternator solves all that. So if you do a bit if night driving, do consider that.
 
Or yo can run the alternators output directly to the battery + side bypasaing thr bulkhead connector, and use a fusable link at the battery end. Then run split dual feeds into the bulkhead off the starter relay in the fenderwell. Pic #2 bypasses alternator output going thru the firewall before going back to the battery. No extra grommet, or moving wires out of the bulkhead needed.

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Or yo can run the alternators output directly to the battery + side bypasaing thr bulkhead connector, and use a fusable link at the battery end. Then run dplit dual feeds into the bulkhead off the starter relay in the fenderwell. Pic #2 bypasses alternator output going thru the firewall before going back to the battery. No extra grommet, or moving wires out of the bulkhead needed.

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View attachment 1715319451

That's the mad approach, not on my cars!
 
If the goal is to minimize resistance for the loads expected, then its best to run power as directly as possible.
Normal running loads are distributed at the main junction.
Battery recharging is only a temporary load. However a low battery can suck a lot of power at 14 Volts if it available. With an alternator that can provide that power, Chrysler's junction block design for '65 amp' alternators (shown by 67Dart273) takes that recharging load off the bulkhead terminals, while still providing power direct to the main junction.
But if you find the alternator output wire connections have already been damaged by overload, then its too late without doing a good repair job. Running a parallel wire is a simple workaround.
 
That's the mad approach, not on my cars!
Ok so use the diagram but bypass the bulkhead as well.

Only reason the feed from the alternator comes thru the firewall on the way back to the battery is to run an ammeter gage. If your eliminating the ammeter, then eliminate the alternator output from running thru the bulkhead and let it go straight to the battery.
 
There's no need to remove the OEM wiring when the direct wire is in place.
 
On my 64 I ran a new charge wire/fusable link from the alternator to the starter relay.

Then, pulled the original black charge wire from the alternator out of the bulkhead connector.
I put a fusable link on the original red wire from the starter relay, and plugged it into the bulkhead where the black was originally.

Disconnected ammeter, and in my case, spliced the black with the wire for the power seat that was on the red side of the ammeter.

Snipped both ends of the black alternator wire as close as possible to the original harness tape, and taped up the red ammeter wire just for the heck of it.
 
Only reason the feed from the alternator comes thru the firewall on the way back to the battery is to run an ammeter gage. If your eliminating the ammeter, then eliminate the alternator output from running thru the bulkhead and let it go straight to the battery.

I'm afraid you think the purpose of the alternator is to feed the battery.
This is not correct.
You may have noticed the ammeter shows no flow from the battery when you're driving around.
Power flows from the highest voltage source.
The alternator runs at a higher voltage than the battery.

When the engine is running, the alternator supplies power.
The amount of current flowing to the battery reduces as it gets closer to full charge. We see this on the ammeter as flow to the battery after starting. After its charged, the ammeter shows no flow to the battery.
Current to all the other electric needs is flowing from the alternator. If its just ignition, its just an amp or two. If the lights on and heater fan going, its more like 20 amps, etc.
If the alternator can not supply all of the power demanded, then the system voltage drops until battery becomes the highest source. Then battery supplies the power.
This was a normal occurance at a stop at night with lights wipers and fan on.

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Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.
 
Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.

Maybe start with watching a youtube video or two on how to read a simple wiring diagram?
 
Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.

Excussssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssse the hell out of "us!!" Listen, you DO realize NO BODY (and that includes YOU) is paying ANYBODY on here for the help they give?
 
Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.

damn. just DAMN.
 
Your the self proclaimed 20 year aerospace welder right?
Wheres your videos? Or "how to" article?
Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.
 
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