Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
On my 67 dart my fuel and temp gauges have quit. Nothing has been changed since they were operational. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Gauges out
- Thread starter Dizzydean
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You probably need an instrument cluster voltage regulator.
1969VADart
Well-Known Member
Domdart beat me to it. The IVR behind the dash is probably bad.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
Ill have to check, so far all I checked is the fuse and nothing coming in.
Voltage regulators get 12 volt supplied straight from ignition switch, no fuse to check.
If you checked a fuse marked "inst"... There is one fuse that doesn't show power at either end until park lamps are pulled on. That one is for the instrument illumination.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There are several things that bear here, don't just easter egg the thing
1...The harness connector pins can break or get loose
2...The IVR "socket" fingers can get corroded and not make contact with the board traces.
3...The gauge stud nuts can work loose, or corrode and lose contact
4...Obviously the IVR can be bad and or the gauges can be bad
5...And......the senders need to have wiring continuity and the senders connected and be good
Here's an old thread on PC board repair
Printed circuit pins repair
Please do not replace the IVR with some mechanical / original device. Look around and find a solid state replacement.
1...The harness connector pins can break or get loose
2...The IVR "socket" fingers can get corroded and not make contact with the board traces.
3...The gauge stud nuts can work loose, or corrode and lose contact
4...Obviously the IVR can be bad and or the gauges can be bad
5...And......the senders need to have wiring continuity and the senders connected and be good
Here's an old thread on PC board repair
Printed circuit pins repair
Please do not replace the IVR with some mechanical / original device. Look around and find a solid state replacement.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
I believe last year maybe 2 years ago I did replace that while I was cleaning the cluster up. Things have been working good up to about maybe a month ago.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
I believe last year maybe 2 years ago I did replace that while I was cleaning the cluster up. Things have been working good up to about maybe a month ago.
harrytoes
Well-Known Member
Is there a ground for either the headlight switch or the instrument cluster?
Not unless someone has added a ground wire. OEM was all chassis grounded through the mounting hardware.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
Forgot about that.
I do have a ground off the gauge panel but that's been there for a long while. Ill check my ivr I believe I have a replacement.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
What are the reasons for not using the oe style. I have a couple spares I would like to try this week maybe narrow the issue.
The mechanical limiter has bouncing contacts inside that can stick closed. Might fry internally but,,, might fry gauges, might fry the 12 volt copper trace off of the circuit board. That last one is the only similarity to a fuse in this circuit. I wouldn't be comfortable with a old used one , even for brief testing.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
Thanks red ill get a newer one. I did notice when I replaced the gas tank and sending unit the gauge never read full with the new ivr unit in. Is this related or is the sending unit off.
No simple answer for that. The aftermarket fuel senders aren't correct reproductions of OEM. They normally do produce full and empty though, just wrong in between. Low voltage from a limiter would make both fuel and temp gauges read low.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
Replaced the ivr yesterday and cant tell on the temp side yet but fuel looks like it wants to move and does only to the empty line. Tank is full. Gauge will bump a tiny amount if I tap the window. OK what now.
Pull wire lead off temp sender, temporarily short it to ground. Turn ignition switch to on. Temp gauge needle should swing quite rapidly to 'H' max. Turn switch off again to prevent gauge overheat. If all that proves out, IVR is good, temp gauge is good. Then same test at fuel sender.
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
thanks redfish ill give it a try this week. If both test ok plus the ivr is new (led is flashing) what would be the next step.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You can get some idea of gauge calibration accuracy by measuring the resistance of the sender at "known" intervals, IE full, 1/2 and empty
One easy way is to access the left kick panel, and separate the rear harness connector. Look up the wire color for the sender and measure that to ground "when" you have some idea of amount of fuel in the tank. There are many threads here on gauge testing. Here are the old gauge tester readings:
One easy way is to access the left kick panel, and separate the rear harness connector. Look up the wire color for the sender and measure that to ground "when" you have some idea of amount of fuel in the tank. There are many threads here on gauge testing. Here are the old gauge tester readings:
Dizzydean
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Still haven't had time yet hopefully this week I can get to them.
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