Alternators

Well now, it's funny you should say that, the car is Mexican.

Has a few other ford parts on it as well including a ford toploader 4 speed box (which was a nice little bonus when I bought it, very strong box!)

Came from factory with it too, something to do with keeping a percentage of the parts made for the car in Mexico or something.

I wonder if this Lucas type set up is from factory then...

I didn't mention it was a Mexican as I didn't think this would matter.

Either way you're all correct the wiring needs to be complete rendone, when I get a chance I'm going to pull all the wires out from battery to the key to the stater to the alt and re do a simple charging/starting circuit thats is not splcied into anything, I also have a proper 3 pin plug connector for a Lucas alternator so should be a lot happier.

Any of you guys run a battery light onto the dash? I have the square Speedo type wooden dash in mine and not the sweeping one.

Only dash lights are brake and oil.
Actually I wouldn't replace anything until you understand the wiring scheme. The schemes Chrysler and other used at the time were generally very simple, but did use splices.
More later.
Mexican & SA cars are generally different, as are Australian Valiants, and to lesser degree as are US/Canada export builds for RHD.
Most Chrysler products of the era will have gages for charging, coolant temperature, and fuel level; a warning light for oil pressure, and the brake warning light.
If that's what your car has, the only one of possible interest a the moment will be the one that shows charging or discharging of the battery.
Power for to the instrument lights, the other gages and lamps is a whole other kettle of fish.
I'd stay focused on the power feeds and voltage regulation circuit.

The scheme for powering the alternator field is "ignition fed". This means the power for the field circuit is tapped off the ignition circuit. When the key is in Run position, power is available in the ignition circuit.

Up through '69, Chrysler used field positive switching for regulation. In '70 they used field negative switching. All that means is the regulator switched the earth connection on and off instead of the positive connection.

Below illustration shows the basic power feed circuit.
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Whether power comes from the alternator or the it comes from the battery, the big welded splice distributes power for everything but the starter.
There are also other splices that act as distribution points. The accessory circuit has an important one. "Accessories" covers just about everything other than running the engine.



When the engine is running, power to the field comes from the ignition circuit.
This shows the current flow to the field with a positive switching regulator.
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The earth switching regulator arrangement scheme is similar, except that the field negative brush has a wire connection to the regulator.