Buying My First Muscle Car 1973 Duster 340 Interior Pic

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Another thing find out what your DEQ laws are. Where I live anyting 1975 and newer has to go through emissions. So you don't want to buy something that you have to go through emissions with. You know like when you build some radical motor that can't pass emissions. So for myself I like to stay 1974 or older. My car is a 73 and would never pass emissions LOL but I just go get my tags when it's time with no questions asked. These laws vary from state to state and from where you are in the state. Like if I lived outside the city I wouldn't worry about it...
 
Think about it... These cars are 45 years old in the technology was at least 15 years old when they were made. So we're talkin 60 year old technology it's not like a million people haven't done it a million times. These cars are simple even the wiring 27 wires big freaking deal. There's no computers or crazy diagnostic machines needed..
 
Gold Crusader said:
my credit is 560-615 which means I can’t get a loan (I’ve tried two classic car loan websites and both rejected me no matter the $10,000 down payment and/or co-signer.)

That’s my story :)
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Just the opinion of an old man. These cars are hobbies for most of us. If you have to borrow the $$, better off to leave it alone.
 
j par said:
Think about it... These cars are 45 years old in the technology was at least 15 years old when they were made. So we're talkin 60 year old technology it's not like a million people haven't done it a million times. These cars are simple even the wiring 27 wires big freaking deal. There's no computers or crazy diagnostic machines needed..
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In the above posts on the subject of learning and doing, Jpar is absolutely correct!!!

Me, my 66 year old father, and my 17 year old son are all restoring a 63 valiant.

Your never to old, and never to young to learn.

Everyone on these forums know how hard it is. It’s not just the mechanical aspect either.

Sometimes, they fight, hard. Lol.

This forum is also helpful at those times too. When you feel totally defeated, and out of ideas, come to FABO, lick your wounds, drop 20, and punt. We’re all here to help.

And some day all of this……

8C64B0FF-DC35-4B73-8C67-12BB9FF21049.jpeg
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Will soon enough, be this!!!


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No sooner did I leave this thread then I looked at another one and it was exactly what I was talking about...
Guy was having trouble with his driver side motor mount common problem on engine swap. First answer in there was "BUY" a spendy new engine mount from a aftermarket manufacturer. Then five more answers of people just saying stack some washers in there. Which of course is what I did when I ran into the problem.
and the guy said what should I spend my money on and the first answer back was loose women cheap booze and expensive rock and roll concerts LOL have some fun with it will ya...
 
prorac1 said:
In the above posts on the subject of learning and doing, Jpar is absolutely correct!!!

Me, my 66 year old father, and my 17 year old son are all restoring a 63 valiant.

Your never to old, and never to young to learn.

Everyone on these forums know how hard it is. It’s not just the mechanical aspect either.

Sometimes, they fight, hard. Lol.

This forum is also helpful at those times too. When you feel totally defeated, and out of ideas, come to FABO, lick your wounds, drop 20, and punt. We’re all here to help.

And some day all of this……

View attachment 1715321344 View attachment 1715321345 View attachment 1715321346 View attachment 1715321347 View attachment 1715321348 View attachment 1715321349 View attachment 1715321350

Will soon enough, be this!!!


View attachment 1715321351 View attachment 1715321353

View attachment 1715321352
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Like, agreed, and right on!
 
I think the hardest part of being a millennial is the instant gratification instilled into most of us. I think that is why I spent a lot of effort trying to save money and invest in stocks rather than buying anything fun like the car of my dreams or international vacations both of which I have always dreamed of doing. I think now that I have the money it’s hard to be patient but patient is what I see a lot of the tips involving. I don’t mind going to see all of these cars I guess I’m just afraid I’ll pick the wrong one. If there is a wrong one.
 
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Maybe the best route for me being a beginner would be to pick a car with a decent body, one that maybe runs, and that way I could focus on the engine and transmission swapping and what not.
 
Gold Crusader said:
I think the hardest part of being a millennial is the instant gratification instilled into most of us. I think that is why I spent a lot of effort trying to save money and invest in stocks rather than buying anything fun like the car of my dreams or international vacations both of which I have always dreamed of doing. I think now that I have the money it’s hard to be patient but patient is what I see a lot of the tips involving. I don’t mind going to see all of these cars I guess I’m just afraid I’ll pick the wrong one. If there is a wrong one.
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Again just don't sit there at your computer! Go look at them do not bring any money. Go put your hands on them sit in them look them over. Most of the cars you mentioned take some time and get out there... Always think on it for one day and if someone else gets it then it wasn't meant to be...
remember the rest is going to be underneath it behind the tires where it kicks up the water and salt. It could be from out of state and have some serious salt damage. Look in the trunk look everywhere. Don't be scared of a little surface rust what you don't want is Bubbles and holes. When is the last time you put your hands on one of these cars? And now you want to buy one? Go look at 1 today and sit in it go look at 1 the next day and sit in it...
 
Gold Crusader said:
Maybe the best route for me being a beginner would be to pick a car with a decent body, one that maybe runs, and that way I could focus on the engine and transmission swapping and what not.
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I still think the first one you posted a pic of is a really good start.
 
Just got a call from the guy selling the Duster. I asked him more in-depth about the rust and he is pretty sure the only spot I need to worry about is where the spare goes (obviously, I'll be checking heavily for bubblies everywhere else) as well as the two small holes where the passenger's feet go. I asked him if the body was straight and he said yes, and I asked him if the front grill was straight and he also said yes. Again, I'm taking this guy's word for a grain of salt and will be checking all myself but it is getting me slightly more excited to go see it. He also offered to drop the price a little and help me out which is just perfect for me. The car is running well enough to put on a trailer which is good news.
 
This is a great idea! Frame and body work sucks!!

I'm sure you want a car you can DRIVE! Buy the nicest car you can afford...and drive it.

Then do little projects one at a time. I like to drive mine, so I try not to keep it off the road for more than a week at a time. I make sure I finish a project, then drive it, then do another project.

Like someone said above, that first one looks good from the pictures. Go look at it, learn what you can about it, look at others, then make up your mind.

Gold Crusader said:
Maybe the best route for me being a beginner would be to pick a car with a decent body, one that maybe runs, and that way I could focus on the engine and transmission swapping and what not.
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Hmmmm. To me that's more than a little rust. It's clearly in the left rocker and where it meets the floor pan there. Spare tire wheel doesn't look very promising either. I don't know enough to comment how that affects the price of a factory 340 car. Negatively obviously. Seeing that now, to me, this car will require some skilled inspection by someone that knows these cars well.
 
Whoa, that's a lot of rust. The rocker/floor pan is especially troublesome. First car, limited budget. No welding or bodywork experience. Run, don't walk, away from this car.
 
I still see no vin? This may not end well....good bit of rust.
Your words "he is dropping the price....to help me out"
Are you serious? You think hes helping you out?
Hes licking his lips thinking about busting your cherry.
NOWHERE do I see anything indicating a 340, whether it's an engine or in a vin.
Sorry to sound harsh, but this is my take on it.
Grabbing munchies now...:popcorn:
 
4spdragtop said:
I still see no vin? This may not end well....good bit of rust.
Your words "he is dropping the price....to help me out"
Are you serious? You think hes helping you out?
Hes licking his lips thinking about busting your cherry.
NOWHERE do I see anything indicating a 340, whether it's an engine or in a vin.
Sorry to sound harsh, but this is my take on it.
Grabbing munchies now...:popcorn:
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I certainly had alarms going off when he said that. He also said, "It has very little rust. Just in one spot." Obviously that was not the case. Also, I got the VIN and the original engine is a 318. Pretty sure the 318 is still in it and that the previous owner put the 340 stickers on it.
 
Gold Crusader said:
I certainly had alarms going off when he said that. He also said, "It has very little rust. Just in one spot." Obviously that was not the case. Also, I got the VIN and the original engine is a 318. Pretty sure the 318 is still in it and that the previous owner put the 340 stickers on it.
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Unless you know how to do metal work I'd walk away from this car. If it was just the spare tire well or a floor maybe, but when the rocker is rusting out on the top, that means the bottom is gone.

If your heart is set on this one, talk him way down. It's advertised as a 340, but it's a 318. Might be a worth $2500, to me I'd pay that, but not a penny more for it.

Your in Texas, lots of decent cars down there.

Riddler
 
Gold Crusader said:
I certainly had alarms going off when he said that. He also said, "It has very little rust. Just in one spot." Obviously that was not the case. Also, I got the VIN and the original engine is a 318. Pretty sure the 318 is still in it and that the previous owner put the 340 stickers on it.
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So it's a plain jane 318 rusty Duster that some one is selling for $5k.

Run.
 
Zackly, lots to be learned in this thread....a painted pig for $5k.
For 1st muscle car purchase find something SOLID. As mentioned go and look touch sit.
Body/welding/paint is biggest costs related to these 50+ cars.
Riddler said:
Unless you know how to do metal work I'd walk away from this car. If it was just the spare tire well or a floor maybe, but when the rocker is rusting out on the top, that means the bottom is gone.

If your heart is set on this one, talk him way down. It's advertised as a 340, but it's a 318. Might be a worth $2500, to me I'd pay that, but not a penny more for it.

Your in Texas, lots of decent cars down there.

Riddler
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moparmandan said:
So it's a plain jane 318 rusty Duster that some one is selling for $5k.

Run.
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Hard to find any 50 year old that is "solid" unless someone before you has repaired all the rust, or it sat in a Texas garage for the last 50 years! Take a refrigerator magnet with you to get an idea of an amount of filler on any car that has EVER been repainted. Yes any straight car will have some filler, and any metal repairs will have required some filler (Bondo).
Realistically assess your skills, equipment, facility.. can you do any bodywork? for example. If not find a car that is done paint wise. 99% of A bodies will rust in trunk and inside floors, and most other models too!
You might find a good slant Duster that has all the body/paint work done, is a driver...and you can make it into a v8 car is that is your desire. Just figure what that will cost, and don't overpay for the project. Figure what it will worth done. After all said and done, any project might end up costing more than a done car!! Finding good projects and fair priced done cars ...Easier said than done!!! Ah .. the thrill of the chase!
 
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