Crazy alignment problems

It has been done! With stock t-bars, the LCA's have to be dropped down to something like 70 degrees below horizontal to get the t-bars to clock properly; with the stock k-member, you just push the LCA's down to where they jam against the k-member to get the LCA's around the right angle. The thinner stock T-bars twist a LOT further to take the load than 1" and larger ones, so that is why the LCA's need to be pushed down so far below horizontal for proper clocking. That being the case, you could also clock them in with the LCA's being just slightly below level; that is the mistake that gets made.

IMHO, the OP needs to re-visit this to be sure; he has not told us what T-bars he has nor if he may have swapped them left and right. The location of the t-bar 'load cams' and the extension of the adjusting bolts looks all wrong so that is the clue.

If the t-bars do not take the full load, then the rest of the load ends up as a twisting load on the bushings (and a bit on the gas shocks). If the OP locked down the UCA's at full droop, then their bushings would be twisted hard and take some of the weight. Works 'til they get torn up. Ditto on the LCA bushings if locked in place at full droop, but he has poly's there per his info so that ought to not be happening.

You have actually done this yourself ?? I don't think so. looking at the LCA the jounce bumper is off the frame so that says the t bar is holding up the car, right. Now let's turn the LCA down 60* hook every thing back up and adjust it, if you can. There is no way in hell you are going to twist that t bar that far. do you get the picture, the T bars have nothing to do with the problem this guy is having.