727 Time to rebuild

fishy68 said
Not sure where the idea of Mr. Randy's rear servo's cause a clunk cause the ones I've used don't. Nevertheless John Cope is a decent guy to deal with. Good products and good service.

I've installed many TF-2 kits and if you leave the accumulator spring in (which I recommend with a stock converter) make sure hole "B" is at least .086" and it'll be a real nice firm shift but won't shred the tires. Also when you go through it make sure there's at least 10 springs in the front clutch (I generally use 12 but 10 is fine for your application). If it only has 6 or 8 springs you might get some 2-3 shift overlap which is real bad.

Fishy68 sorry for the confusion. I was asking cope if the solid rear billet servo’s cause a clunk. He said no. I might go with randy’s I haven’t ordered yet.

With the separator plate I have so far drilled
A: .187
B: not drilled yet planning on leaving ball out (should I drill and leave out ball?)
C: .155 (thinking going bigger to .187)
D: .187

The TV valve I only grinded it down half way. The directions say .281 but I’m at like .336 right now. I read your old post about losing kick down after 50mph.

I still have to pull transmission but I’m thinking of switching the 2.9 servo lever to the 3.8 that I already have and adding 12 return springs. Probably up grade the servos while I’m in there. I have a stock low stall I believe in there now that came from a motor home. I also have a 3k PTC converter 11” that I bought locally used sitting on the shelve. But I’m thinking it’s over kill for my car.

I’ll tear into the trans hopefully soon and determine what’s all needed. This is a first for me. I try and read all the threads and also have Tom hands book.