Ignition Switch Connector Fail

I have one issue with high out put alternator theory burning the wiring. And correct me if wrong. The alternator B+ wire goes to the bulkhead plug to the amp gauge and from there it splits to the fuse box, and back out to the battery. The wire in question is the harness plug for the ignition switch? Right? After the fuse box. That would be the “load” side and not the “line” side in the system- after the fuse able link. In other words the damage - in this particular case is from too much draw or an over load of need for electrical amperage and not too much feed from alternator, other wise the wire from the alternator would had melted. In every case when a higher output alternator is used - it can only push so much amperage thru a particular wire. The B+ alternator wire is the restriction, like hooking a garden hose to a fire hydrant vs a 3” fire hose. Same source and same pressure (13.5-14.5v) but limited output (37amps vs 100amps). The wire can handle only the 37amp and looses the rest thru heat. Too much heat and the wire melts.

You are only going to get so much amperage. Also high output regulators in a small body alternator means it can put out say 100amps but for how long? Heat and friction will slow the output. The frame of the alternator can only handle so much current. That’s why the “duty” of the alternator from the factory is rated at 37amps. It can run 37amp output all day and night. Could that alternator put out more- yes. But for how long is the question.

So in theory if a harness is a limited factor. Based on output and draw the next place to check is the bulkhead connector and those connection. Sorry- just trying to prevent a fire else where on my own stuff too. Lol!