another 360/408 over heating

Lots of good suggestions here and I thank all.
As for using a flex fan I saw one come apart or should I say the aftermath of one that came apart and that will always keep me from ever using a flex fan. However I will try to go back and use the factory 4 blade fan I have that was on the 273 originally. If that helps I will look for a 6 or 7 blade for a small block. What is the distance on most cars from the fan blades to the radiator as mine will be less then an inch?
As for a fan clutch I have not found one that will fit between the pump and radiator in my car. Remember I have only 2.5" max for space.
As for the question why use an electric fan there are reasons for it but the biggest is probably the 7-15 HP that it saves. Then as mentioned by J-par there is less chance on lossing fingers or hands.
As for the bleeding the coolant system, since i've had the thermostat out with every change I have tried so far I have always filled the coolant thru the intake until it is just at the top then installed the thermostat and housing. Once thats all back together I fill the rest of the way thru the top of radiator so I dont see issues there. I also run the car until I can see coolant flow before I put the cap on which would move any air pockets.
Im not sure what the reason khuebner250 suggests to replace the cap? What lb pressure cap are you suggesting to go to? As for the pump its an 8 vein and it also has the machined plate with a closed back just as the flowkooler pumps do.
AJ/FormS I do know i dont have any rags stuck in any hoses! lol I dont have that bad habit so I can eliminate that! But im sure it has happened to people before. Im not sure what you are saying when you mention Vcan on distributor? Im running aftermarket distributor and ignition. As for the trans/convertor I havent had a chance to really check anything there since I cant drive without getting hot but I can tell you that the lines and aux cooler are running at 105-115 which I see as pretty cool. The lower hose doesnt have a spring in it and I went to NAPA Thursday but they dont sell springs and I verified that the hose wasnt sucked shut the night i took all my readings. I will do the radiator flow test to make sure that I have plenty of flow.
As for driving the water pump faster then the crank, I bought a pulley kit for a serpentine belt upgrade about a year ago and havent installed it yet. I checked the pulleys for that kit last night before I left and the water pump pulley is 5" while the crank pulley is 6". So I might as well install that system while Im having this issue because that may help solve some problems as it will overdrive the pump.
Again thanks for all the input.
The wife has made me a spring cleanup list that will take me weeks of daylight to complete so I only have about one hour a night to get at this thing. I was hoping to drive it to Ocean City Md in May (175 miles one way) but I dont see that happening at this point.
I will continue to post my changes and results as I go until we have this resolved!!
Thanks, Rod


The 7-15 HP you think you are saving is not really all that much. With those fans blocking air through the radiator at road speeds you are most likely losing HP.

Verify the gauge and then work on coolant and air flow. That's where your issues are. In my nearly 4 decades I've never seen a fan explode that didn't have other issues first. Older car chassis are NOT designed for those electric fans. Again, they are in the way.