no dash lights

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A harness from a 70 would be too different . Sorry I seem so negative.
If you were my neighbor I would fix what you have for you.
Good luck with it.
 
On the circuit board where the main plug connects occasionally has a solder problem. Remove the panel and check the pins. Get a car battery and some small jumpers. Find one of the cluster bulbs (not an indicator like a signal) and follow both sides back to where either the pin is and/or a main panel ground. Connect the jumpers to these two pins (use some white out on the circuit board to show you where theses are for later). If your lights work then it is a connection problem.
If the lights work reconnect the wires to the cluster. Now find the dots of white out and with the test light connected to a good ground probe the back of the plug that lines up with your positive pin if you have power the problem should be on the ground side. To make sure connect the test light to a good power source on the fuse block and check the ground you marked with the white out. If the test light does not come on , it's the ground. (Just a thought: do all your gauges and indicators work ok?)
 
Redfish, that woud be awsome, any homes available in your area? lol. Not negative at all, you have been very helpful with ideas.Again thanks.
 
Romeo, I think my next step is to pull the cluster and try to figure out whats going on with the wire nuts.
 
OK, any reason why I might not be able to use this to repace my 68 cluster & harness?
I have located a 1970 Valiant instrument cluster and harness.
 
see markings on your picture showing circuit board.

The main power for your dash lights occurs at the connector noted

Also note the gap on the connector where the top of the connector is pulling away from the circuit board

This is the connector to remove, clean, test for power when the lights are on, & reinstall after cleaning circuit board pins.
 

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A harness from a 70 will be different enough to cause a repeat in cut/splice/alter. If you can't find a nice 68 harness we'll try to fix what you have as best we can.
 
I see that gap in the photo. Even if change the instrument panel to go along with that harness it would still be a problem?
 
Corrosion of the instrument light power source pin & socket can cause a poor connection at the circuit board connector. Corrosion severe enough at these connections can cause cross circuiting.....example high beam lights can blink when a blinker is used when a blinker indicator light cross circuits to the high beam indicator light at this connector.

In your case you may find that the connector light power socket is not well connected to the corresponding circuit board pin....the easiest thing to do RHRN is to get some slack in the harness to allow the circuit board connector to be firmly pressed all the way into place so there is no gap.

The best thing is to pull the circuit board connector off & clean all of the sockets & pins then test the light power socket on the circuit board connector for power with the lights on.

I can give you an electrical diagram for a 65 Dart that identifies which socket(of the 9 sockets) of the connector should carry the power for the instrument lights if you don't have a circuit diagram for your car. Then you can check for power at that socket with the lights on. If you have power there then you know there is a high probability the circuit board or connector is the location to focus your attention.

If your really in a hurry try jiggling the circuit board connector with the lights on.....if the instrument lights flicker on & off you got a high probability the connector is the culprit.

Let me know if you want a 65 Dart picture of the connector & which socket carries the instrument light power...it would be best if someone posted your Valiant connector & identified the light power source socket.
 
I had issues with a few of the switches on my cluster, sprayed the wire connectors with electro contact cleaner and it fixed the problem. Maybe spray the headlight switch & circuit board connector and see what happens.
 
I see that gap in the photo. Even if change the instrument panel to go along with that harness it would still be a problem?
Yup, a '70 harness is quite different. Ignition in column instead of dash, ditto on the emergency flasher, dual field charging system, etc. Figure out what is wrong first, then go about getting replacement parts. If you find you need a good dash harness, let me know and I'll check my supply.
Thanks, Mark
 
thanks all, appears I have some work to do on what I have. And, Mark I will let you know.
 
pulled cluster today and cleaned all contact points. Amp wires are the ones with wire nut, plan to replace wire & heat shrink. Have power at fuse box & headlight switch but could not find power out from the barrel connector.
Cluster looked good, tightened all nuts, cleaned cluster and fuse box. Found the emergency flasher fuse was blown. I had replaced that last week after finding flasher was disconnected. Plan to replace the flasher switch also.
Now, to see what happenings with power to barrel .
 
OK, any reason why I might not be able to use this to repace my 68 cluster & harness?
I have located a 1970 Valiant instrument cluster and harness.

Ok, hope you get this fixed, but;
your asking questions in the "Early A-Body" sub forum,
which is Only for cars built 1960-1966.

Some others may not have noticed this, and the wiring is different on the
Early cars compared to yours.

Here linked are the wiring diagrams for 1968 Valiant. ;)

http://www.mymopar.com/66to71_wiring.htm

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantB.jpg
 
could not find power out from the barrel connector..

What do you have for a wiring diagram? The barrel connector won't have power except to certain pins under certain conditions

I understand this is a 68 valiant?

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantB.jpg

below is where things go on the connector

2rxh4wk.jpg


On the picture above, A, dk blue, will be hot only in "ignition run" and maybe "accessory."

B, "gas gauge" will show continuity to ground and is the sender wire to the tank. No power when disconnected

C, "temp ind" same as above except goes to temp sender

D "instrument lights" should have power when light switch is on

E "high beam" will only have power with lights on in high beam

F L direction obviously will blink as turn signal on Left

G same as above, right

K Same as temp and gas, temp--goes to oil pressure gauge sender OR to oil pressure light switch.

L brake warning light will only have power if the brake warning switch is activated.

Ammeter must be hooked up, (or wires jumpered) and cluster must be grounded.
 
With the headlight switch pulled one click to the park lamp on position there would or should be power into the instrument panel. Power out to each illumination bulb socket via the printed circuit board .
 
I have those wiring diagrams, and IM sorry about posting in Early A body area.
Been away a couple of days, I have the dash all back together except for connecting the barrel plug & speedo cable. Going back tomorrow and checking for something out of the barrel plug again. Nothing before pulling the dash apart.
The only wires I found cut were the amp wires and no sign of a short/burn on them. Did some R&R on that with same gauge wire /solder & heat shrink. wish me luck!
 
Ok here is my problem, when I turn the key on none of my dash lights that usually come on when you turn the key on do not come on. My right turn signal indicator does not light up but my turn signal for this side works. On the left side my turn signal indicator lights up as well as all of my dash lights. Checked all fuses and all are good. Anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem? This just happened after the car was in storage in my garage during the winter. No signs of critters that entered my car.. I am stumped...
 
For some standard inst' panels the only lamp that come on with switch on is OIL warning. Others light up a SEATBELT warning. The rally panel has none unless the park brake is set. Only sign of life in these is fuel gauge needle movement. So without knowing what panel you have,,, I'll guess a couple of bulbs burned out, or bulb sockets failed, or both. The sockets have 2 tiny plastic tangs that hold them in position. If you pull the inst' panel and find one or two bulb/socket failures, best plan is replace all of them while you're there.
 
For some standard inst' panels the only lamp that come on with switch on is OIL warning. Others light up a SEATBELT warning. The rally panel has none unless the park brake is set. Only sign of life in these is fuel gauge needle movement. So without knowing what panel you have,,, I'll guess a couple of bulbs burned out, or bulb sockets failed, or both. The sockets have 2 tiny plastic tangs that hold them in position. If you pull the inst' panel and find one or two bulb/socket failures, best plan is replace all of them while you're there.
Ok RedFish I guess that is what I will have to do.. Thanks...
 
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