building a long distance touring car

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Build a 9:1 5.2 magnum with about a 205@.050 roller cam clean up heads dual
plane with a Q jet NOT thermoquad, chose gearing/tires to get about 2200 rpm at 65.
You could use 87 octane which is about 50 cents cheaper ($$$/mile!)
 
Build a 9:1 5.2 magnum with about a 205@.050 roller cam clean up heads dual
plane with a Q jet NOT thermoquad, chose gearing/tires to get about 2200 rpm at 65.
You could use 87 octane which is about 50 cents cheaper ($$$/mile!)
A GOOD TQ tuned is a great carb. There are people that specialize in bulding/selling that carb. Ma Mopar knew she stuff. Anyway that type carb is fun!
 
Looking for straight mileage over performance is easy, generally small displacement tall gearing and tires and slow driving speed. Eg. 170 /6 2.76 + OD and 28" or taller tire at 55 mph.

But with performance it becomes slightly harder.
First I see displacement in more of dynamic thing, its only static when the engine is off. Cid x rpm / 2 = dynamic Cid or as we normally calculate it in cfm = cid x rpm / 3456.

Take a 500 cid engine cruising at 1500 rpm equals 217 cfm or a 250 cid engine cruising at 3000 rpm equals 217 cfm both would make similar mileage and if makeing around the same hp would also be similar in performance.

The advantage of the larger displacement is good performance with lower cruising speed and probably better street manners.

That why Id pick 360/5.9 cause its the largest stock displacement small block you can get. See no point in stroking an engine for this performance mileage level.
 
A GOOD TQ tuned is a great carb. There are people that specialize in bulding/selling that carb. Ma Mopar knew she stuff. Anyway that type carb is fun!

Or just go with the modern replacement, Holley Street Demon. It's basically a TQ with all the needless emissions crap taken out and modified to fit on a square-bore flange. It's advertised for gas mileage and response on the street, best of all you can buy one NEW instead of taking a gamble on a 40-year-old lump that still may run bad after a rebuild and tune. I like ThermoQuads but gave up on them it's just too hard to find good cores and parts anymore, not to mention spread-bore intake manifolds.

That carb (and appropriate intake) on a stock 5.2L Magnum would probably get the best mileage you possibly could out of an SBM, except for maybe a built 273 with similar compression, heads, and roller cam.
 
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5.2 with either fuel injection or a tq and headers.
Never had a 360 that would match a 318 for mileage.
 
Stock 1969 Belvidere (4 door) equiped with A/C.
318 with torqueflite
Timing perhaps slightly advanced to take advantage of the higher octane fuel sold by American
21 mpg on family trip from North Jersey to West Fla. when the car was relatively new.
So I'd say that should be your baseline for both milage and pep.
With an A-body and 4 spd, a stock 318 build will get at least that.
Radial tires will help pick up perhaps another 1 mpg.

'69 smog efforts were mostly focused on idle and decel.
Set yours up with maybe 5* more initial at idle, and a hair richer for a little better fuel and power at idle.
Let the intake dictate whether you go spreadbore or squarebore. That assumes you don't want to go factory 2bbl.

Bottom line. You should be able to get at least 22 mpg in the coastal plain and piedmont with a teen build and still have plenty of snap on the street.
 
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I have a '68 convertible Barracuda. It gets 17 mpg at 70 mph with the top down, and the A/C blasting. It gets a bit better with the top up. I guess it would hit 20 mpg if I could put up with going slower on road trips, but with a Valentine 1 on the job.....why suffer.

I run a 408 inch 5.9 Magnum stroker with massaged Eddie heads, 10.2 to 1 compression and a lopey .575 lift hydraulic roller spec'd by Dave Hughes.

That spins a 3.91 sure grip through a Stage 2 200R4 from Extreme Automatics via a 3800 stall lock-up converter from Precision of New Hampton. The lock-up is like having 5th gear.

It out runs stock tire'd Hellcats in the quarter, because it gets out of the hole very hard street or strip. It's dead reliable, a daily driver and put's virtually everyone right in shock when they try to run against it, except 4WD Nissan GTR's etc.

It's the unusual combination of the EFI and the awesome trans, the nearly perfectly matched torque converter and the Nitto Drag Radials. Oh yeah, the properly adjusted slapper bars are painted black, so I don't have to hear how they don't work on Mopars as much after I beat them.

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How tall is that tire?
 
adding this or changing that,run this gear and the small engine is better are just generalizations and can work but i know guys who have added over drive transmissions and got worse mileage.
and i know 2 bbl 318's that got poor mileage and stock tired 340's with 3.23 gears that got lo 20's
Rumble is correct about the cam, and hi lift short duration can work for power and efficiency.Cam is very important.
The engine must be super efficient, especially at cruz rpm.So head design and flow, valve size,intake manifold and carb flow,compression,exhaust,gears, tire ratio, converter are different for each engine size,and on and on.
...this requires a lot of thought
there is an old blog floating around the inter web somewhere called hot rod Daves super duper mileage
miser or some thing similar.A year long experiment with a tremendous amount of tests, parts and results!
Let us know how you make out!
 
What engines do you have on hand...exactly.
Any engine can be be efficient if built with parts that compliment each other.
I think Hot Rod Dave obtained 30 plus mpg in a 318?
 
Since my Dart goes on long trips on occasion I'll throw my combo out there.
Stock bottom end 5.9 with a 214/224-.512 lift cam on a 110 lobe center.
Edelbrock 600 cfm on an aluminum dual plane intake.
1-5/8 long tube headers
Thermostat controlled electric fan
42RH OD trans with a stage 2 shift kit
HEI ignition and vacuum advance used.
273 gears currently
25 mpg at 80mph on the hiway running high 14's/low 15's AFR at 2,100 RPM's
This plus lots of compression

Another key is how much power extraction your cam has. Teeners have about 120degrees. The 292/108 has about 102. TB's cam has about 113 . My Hughes 223/230/110 had about 108. 102 is terrible for fuel economy leaving a lot of heat and pressure still in the exiting exhaust. 120 is teenersville, and you can't get that amount on a performance FTH cam. 113 is up the middle and a reasonable number. By 108 (my 230/237/110 Hughes cam) fuel-economy is in the toilet at 2250rpm
Another key is the cruise rpm, if you end up cruising at a too-low rpm, you will put the intake into reversion, where it will be difficult to control the AFR.
And hardest of all is to give the engine the timing it wants at low rpm, and if you don't, she will be stuck operating in an inefficient mode. Which means you will have to use more pedal than necessary, compounding the other problems. The lowest possible rpm is not always the best solution
The nice thing about the 360 is you can go a little bigger on intake duration, before the bottom end goes soft, and the more compression you can run, the greater will be the efficiency, so the less throttle opening you need, to cruise with.
TB's combo is an excellent example of an all-round great street machine.

But keep in mind that the difference between 22 mpg and 15 mpg is just 21gallons per 1000 miles. So on a 3000 mile trip you will save 63 gallons. At $4.50 per gallon this comes to just $284 smackers..... so IMO you kindof have to keep your eye on the big picture; How much performance are you willing to sacrifice to save the 21 gallons per 1000miles.

If you got deep pockets I recommend aluminum heads tight-Q,and 185psi with something like a fast-rate 220 cam,and a two-chunk system; one hiway and one "other",lol. It only takes an hour and change,to swap pumpkins; otherwise overdrive is the way to go. The hiway pumpkin could be 2.94s to top out first gear at 60mph@~5600. the 2.94s would cruise at 65=~2400
The "other" could be 4.56s to hit 65@5600... now in second,lol. Or some other "other".
At this performance level, another option is an A999 with the ratios of 2.74-1.54-1.00 and a 2400 loc-up TC. With this trans you could run 2.76s for a lil more first gear punch; 7.56 versus 7.20 with the A904, and the cruise would drop to 65=2230 which I like a lot. 2230 will allow you to run something like a 228/232/108 fast-rate cam and still get ~113* of power extraction. You can make a lot of power with this hi-compression combo, and a lotta torque, and a good amount of steady-state mpg.
And the bonus is that the aluminum heads at 185psi, on the hiway,will easily cruise on 87E10, for another significant cash savings.
Cruise ignition timing for 2230rpm will be difficult. Mine likes hi-50s*. So you are gonna need a timing computer of some kind, cuz without it, all you can get is about 40/45*.. This is easily 10-15* short, putting your piston that amount further down the bore before the peak cylinder pressure hits, which has now gone soft. This loss of pressure is a direct loss of torque, and so a direct loss of mpgs.

IIRC TB runs mid 50s on his combo. I run a dash-mounted, electronic, dial-back, timing gizmo from a long-defunct company,(I think); Jacob's Ignition. It has a range of 15*, which if I set the timing with the gizmo's dial centered, is a plus/minus of 7.5* .. So, just to throw some numbers out there; if your mechanical timing was 22* at 2230 and the Vcan got you 18 more, that's 40* . So the gizmo would have to make up the difference to whatever your combo likes. The trick is to remember to dial it back when you come off the hiway, else your power timing will be way too high. Which with the aluminum heads@185psi, my occasional forgetfulness hasn't seemed to hurt them. I finally made it a mental rule to always check the dial before going hammer-down. That seems to be working for me.

If you are not interested in that amount of power, then; iron heads will be fine, with a smaller cam. Just run the cylinder pressure up to about 160psi, with a tight-Q. You might have to run premium gas at WOT, but it will still cruise on 91 or 87 even. And the bonus is you won't have as much trouble with the timing curve.
Ok enough talk,lol.
 
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Build a 3.31 stroke x "4.+ bore.
8.2 dynamic, roller cam , dual plane intake, if iron heads...mildly ported with 1.94/1.6 valves, step headers...2.5" dual exh free flow 'non chambered' mufflers.. 700cfm dbl or fitech.

Good distributor with perfect curve and vac adv can....and last but not least...a light foot, good luck with that part.lol
 
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Build a 3.31 stroke x "4.+ bore.
8.2 dynamic, roller cam , dual plane intake, if iron heads...mildly ported with 1.94/1.6 valves, step headers...2.5" dual exh free flow 'non chambered' mufflers.. 700cfm dbl or fitech.

Good distributor with perfect curve and vac adv can....and last but not least...a light foot, good luck with that part.lol

Im going to agree with the above with a few tweaks. I would run a custom solid flat tappet, I do not advocate solid rollers for extended long distance driving. I don't even trust hydraulic rollers all that much.

This is going to be so long winded I'm going to start a new thread. J.Rob
 
Multi Displacement System --> it deactivates four of the V8's cylinders when the throttle is closed or at steady speeds.
 
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