Hydraulic Clutch Kit??

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coalman

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Does anyone know if these are available for the 833 in A bodies?? Thanks
 
I got the whole kit from American Powertrain 2 years ago. love it. Good riddance to all that friggin linkage B.S. Just be careful with your set up. I had to have them make me a shim that didn't come in the kit to get it perfect. Basically you want 150 thou air gap, at the initial assembly. Make that happen and you'll be golden.
 
When I was a kid I built a Henry J, with a small block Chevy, I used a standard master cylinder and a slave cylinder from the hot rod shop, attached to the bell housing worked pretty good....
 
I got the whole kit from American Powertrain 2 years ago. love it. Good riddance to all that friggin linkage B.S. Just be careful with your set up. I had to have them make me a shim that didn't come in the kit to get it perfect. Basically you want 150 thou air gap, at the initial assembly. Make that happen and you'll be golden.
Ironmike, if you have pictures, can you please post them? I read the HOTROD article, seems easy enough. I'd like input or pictures from real world users like yourself! Thank you.
 
I run that kit, American Powertrain, and had to have a spacer made from them also. Got the “air gap” needed, bled it, drive the snot out of it.
 
There has GOT to be a "backyard budget" way to go about these..........
 
I run that kit, American Powertrain, and had to have a spacer made from them also. Got the “air gap” needed, bled it, drive the snot out of it.

I just installed their kit on my 18-spline A-833 while my Passon is out. I'm planning on having to re-set the airgap with that transmission slightly, but I'll see. Mine was .167" .

I had to make a longer anti-rotation guide pin out of a grade 8 bolt, as my T.O. bearing would have slid off their pin when the clutch was depressed. Also made a longer pedal mounting bolt to line the master cylinder up with my pedal better. I drilled out the stock hole on the Mopar clutch pedal to 5/16" to fit the longer thicker bolt.

Both install issues were an easy fix with a few common grade 8 bolts. Works great up on the jack stands so far, and doing some test driving this weekend. The pedal feedback feels much more "accurate" or directly linked to the pressure plate resistance than the stock linkage did.

I got tired of trying to optimize the factory stuff and had the stock clutch fork fall off the throw-out bearing pads a few weeks back leaving me stranded.

I did have to manually bleed the system after install, but same technique as brakes. Also, I used some heat shrink tubing on the end of the bleeder fitting and Teflon tape on the bleeder threads to keep air from leaking back while bleeding it. I use Teflon tape on my brake bleeding fittings too for the same reason being careful to keep the tape back from being exposed to the inside cavity of the brake fluid.
 
If you stick the bleeder end into a cup of brake fluid, you won’t suck air back in. Trick is to get one with a big enough opening to get hands in to open/close the bleeder.
 
My neighbor has a Chevy 2500HD with hydraulic throw out bearing-
junkyard for master & reservoir with replacement throw out maybe?
Not sure of shaft size differences though.
 
With the American Powertrain master cylinder, were you guys having interference issues with the inner fender apron?
 
I did, a ball peen hammer and all was good.
 
PTT Street-MAX Hydraulic Release Bearing for Street Stock Clutches

I ordered this one, half the price of the American powertrain one and I'm sure it's the exact same thing, right down to the blue anodized spacer ring. You would just need to but a master cylinder but a wilwood master only runs 70-80 bucks so you still come out ahead. Havent used it yet but I'm about to install it next weekend.
 
PTT Street-MAX Hydraulic Release Bearing for Street Stock Clutches

I ordered this one, half the price of the American powertrain one and I'm sure it's the exact same thing, right down to the blue anodized spacer ring. You would just need to but a master cylinder but a wilwood master only runs 70-80 bucks so you still come out ahead. Havent used it yet but I'm about to install it next weekend.


I read their material. They specify their unit is for a "stock" street clutch that has a diaphragm style spring. I'm using the American Powertrain kit with a McLeod Street Twin. I really like the pedal feel and feed back The American Powertrain kit gives.

I did have to change a few pieces of the hardware in their kit, so putting one together from separate components is not that much more of a stretch. They do have a very, very nice bracket on the Wilwood Master Cylinder to adjust the angle of the firewall to match the clutch pedal's range of motion. It would be a chore to come up with one on your own that works and functions as good, but Mopart's folks are a talented bunch.
 
For those of you that have the American Powertrain kit can you please show pics of the linkage on your pedal. Thank you
 
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Don't feel bad, I have done it more than once and this is a subject that keeps coming uo (which is why I am here...)
 
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