Pedal rod to Z bar question.
Yes I already put the Z-bar bushing,seal,washer,lock spring kit in. My issue is New clutch ,PP and throw out B. I can adjust clutch with pedal really low on floor but pedal won't completely return. I did put a stiffer spring from z bar to pivot arm to try to help .If I adjust pedal higher I will go (over center?) which I did once and popped the spring retainer on throw out bearing.(That was fun fixing) I would have to put a block under the pedal or Fab. a stop if I want my adjustment at top of pedal.
Going crazy now. If I push to much on the pedal the fork forces itself off the throw out bearing spring clips. I think the throw out bearing it too long on the shaft but don't have my original to compare. The fingers on the PP are about 2.5 inches off he flywheel.
The fork sits about 1 5/8 " from the face of the bearing but seems like the collar in the back is to long . (I should have taken a pic)
Iv'e heard good things about the McLeod diaphragm clutch I might throw in the towel and purchase. Anyone running this set up and do you like it ? I know I have to remove the pedal spring.
1968 DODGE DART McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits 75109
The low pedal is your problem. And the distant bearing proves it, along with the fork coming off the TO legs.You probably have the wrong fork pivot bracket. and or too short a fork. Go to the Brewers Site and have a look.
With the correct parts, the pedal will park at the top. Then when correctly adjusted for freeplay, you will have 3/4 to 1 inch of no resistance, then the TO will contact the fingers. Then an additional inch or at most 2 will generate enough clutch departure to engage reverse without grinding. No further pedal is required. That left-over travel can be used for a custom free-play adjustment, but I like my TO to contact in the first 1/2" travel. It just means an annual freeplay adjustment to me,no biggie.
If you want to measure the departure, I set mine to about .060, most guys set it to .080. You only need enough so that the shift can easily be made; that is to say, that the synchros don't have to try and slow the clutch down, cuz they won't last long trying that.
The hardest job is at zero mph and idle, cuz if the clutch is dragging,all the other gears are already spinning, and the synchro is desperately trying to get the low gear to stop; and to do that, all the gears, every last one of them, have to stop. That's a tall order for that lil brass ring. This is why I said to use reverse as your "grind me a pound" guide. Departure is adequate if/when reverse is easy to "snick" into. You might have to wait a second or two with thin oil, but no more that 2 or 3.
