Strut rod bushings for 1972 A-body
I count 15 threads on the coarse threaded one in Steve's top photo.
and 22 threads on the fine one ('73 up) in th esame photo.
If the threaded portions of both are about 1.25", then your 16 tpi count would be closer to the fine threaded earlier rod.
I think what you've got will be fine, and no harm in using the offset UCA bushings. The car should feel better with the 1" t-bars and the front sway bar.
When you or your guy goes to align it, make sure the first step is to set the ride hieght.
Moving the ride height up decreases caster, lowering it increases it.
I'd start with the ride height on the lower side of the spec unless your roads particularly bad. The 67-9 Barracudas all had ride height spec'd lower than their Valiant and Dart counterparts. It may be one reason its easier for those cars to get more negative camber and positive caster without the offset UCA bushings. Looking at a 71 FSM now, the 2 door models similarly were spec'd lower.
Then once the ride height is set, go for camber and caster.
The factory spec's assume high crowned roads. That's why the prefered settings were different from left to right.
IMO if you can get -1/2º camber, and 3/4 to 1.5º caster, that would be fine starting point for street tires.
Then for toe, factory spec is good. 1/8" in target, 3/32 to 5/32" in acceptable range. Toe out while driving the car will want to follow ruts in the road.
Well, mine are on the car, and I don't think I counted the tpi. Someone here should know.
I count 15 threads on the coarse threaded one in Steve's top photo.
and 22 threads on the fine one ('73 up) in th esame photo.
If the threaded portions of both are about 1.25", then your 16 tpi count would be closer to the fine threaded earlier rod.
I think what you've got will be fine, and no harm in using the offset UCA bushings. The car should feel better with the 1" t-bars and the front sway bar.
When you or your guy goes to align it, make sure the first step is to set the ride hieght.
Moving the ride height up decreases caster, lowering it increases it.
I'd start with the ride height on the lower side of the spec unless your roads particularly bad. The 67-9 Barracudas all had ride height spec'd lower than their Valiant and Dart counterparts. It may be one reason its easier for those cars to get more negative camber and positive caster without the offset UCA bushings. Looking at a 71 FSM now, the 2 door models similarly were spec'd lower.
Then once the ride height is set, go for camber and caster.
The factory spec's assume high crowned roads. That's why the prefered settings were different from left to right.
IMO if you can get -1/2º camber, and 3/4 to 1.5º caster, that would be fine starting point for street tires.
Then for toe, factory spec is good. 1/8" in target, 3/32 to 5/32" in acceptable range. Toe out while driving the car will want to follow ruts in the road.
