Strut rod bushings for 1972 A-body

Well, mine are on the car, and I don't think I counted the tpi. Someone here should know.
I count 15 threads on the coarse threaded one in Steve's top photo.
and 22 threads on the fine one ('73 up) in th esame photo.
If the threaded portions of both are about 1.25", then your 16 tpi count would be closer to the fine threaded earlier rod.

I think what you've got will be fine, and no harm in using the offset UCA bushings. The car should feel better with the 1" t-bars and the front sway bar.

When you or your guy goes to align it, make sure the first step is to set the ride hieght.
Moving the ride height up decreases caster, lowering it increases it.
I'd start with the ride height on the lower side of the spec unless your roads particularly bad. The 67-9 Barracudas all had ride height spec'd lower than their Valiant and Dart counterparts. It may be one reason its easier for those cars to get more negative camber and positive caster without the offset UCA bushings. Looking at a 71 FSM now, the 2 door models similarly were spec'd lower.
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I actually bought the QuickTrick alignment setup. It was pricey but I have a feeling I'll be aligning it a lot as I go, and then I can do all my other cars I maintain. (3 driving kids, wife....like a fleet of vehicles)
Yes, that threaded end is 1.25 inches long. I'm glad to hear these are what should have came on the car. Its a numbers matching car but I do see that the front end was hit something in its past history and did crunch the frame front end on both side. Not bad, but the damage is there. Time will tell if the frame is out of wack. Of course I had no idea until after I bought the car and put it on my lift. Good times.
1.25 inch front sway bar... :) Thing is a beast, lol. But, stock leafs on back, with a crappy 7 1/4 rear...thats on the list as well. Does it ever end?


Then once the ride height is set, go for camber and caster.
The factory spec's assume high crowned roads. That's why the prefered settings were different from left to right.
IMO if you can get -1/2º camber, and 3/4 to 1.5º caster, that would be fine starting point for street tires.
Then for toe, factory spec is good. 1/8" in target, 3/32 to 5/32" in acceptable range. Toe out while driving the car will want to follow ruts in the road.