904 in 1965 Barracuda

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65MagnumFish

65MagnumFish

65MagnumFish
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Hey everyone, I am working on restoring my floor in my Barracuda. I am planning on putting a 904 auto partnered with a 360 magnum. Do I need a different shifter mount on the tunnel that is welded then what is in it now? It was a slant 6 with auto. Trying to get a list of items needed. Thanks.
 
If you want to put a later 904 with a slip yoke tailshaft in it, you need to use brackets from a later A body to mount a floor shifter. I’m doing the same thing to my 65 Barracuda, but plan to just use an aftermarket shifter that resembles the original that’s in it. I have the cable shift 904 that came in it, but have no interest in fooling with it.
 
Im doing the same thing.
But i plan on using original shifter. Will take some fabricating as the kit someone made is no longer available.
 
Install a Hurst Pro-Matic 2 under the stock console and dont look back. Youll have to cut off the old mount down to tunnel. Even the Hurst ball looks stock. Only thing that is different is the HURST on the shaft externally and the lack of stock ball side inserts but you may be able to tap and thread the old ball and screw it on too. IIRC the console ashtray wont fit as there is a shifter piece right there. If you can get the cable travel of the original to match the lever travel of the later 904, you can do it.
 
pishta said:
Install a Hurst Pro-Matic 2 under the stock console and dont look back. Youll have to cut off the old mount down to tunnel. Even the Hurst ball looks stock. Only thing that is different is the HURST on the shaft externally and the lack of stock ball side inserts but you may be able to tap and thread the old ball and screw it on too. IIRC the console ashtray wont fit as there is a shifter piece right there. If you can get the cable travel of the original to match the lever travel of the later 904, you can do it.
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So if I use a hurst shifter like mentioned I don’t have to purchase a later a body mount? I’m going cable shift slip yolk 904. So putting in a quick silver b&m shifter isn’t as easy as I originally believed? I like the idea of not hunting down and purchasing more pieces which sounds like the hurst shifter? My car is a roller with no trans or motor. It was a slant 6 car.
 
JDMopar said:
If you want to put a later 904 with a slip yoke tailshaft in it, you need to use brackets from a later A body to mount a floor shifter. I’m doing the same thing to my 65 Barracuda, but plan to just use an aftermarket shifter that resembles the original that’s in it. I have the cable shift 904 that came in it, but have no interest in fooling with it.
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Would a quick silver be an option? I don’t care much about factory looking shifter. I just want something simple to install. I have no trans and no motor but it’s a slant 6 auto car. I was hoping I could use the mounts that are welded to the tunnel.
 
Wait I have to determine if indeed I am using a cable shift. I’m starting from scratch. What type is easiest with a slip yolk 904? The 904 I have is a 1973.
 
Hi Rob, i transplanted a 727 into a 59 dodge,it was a manual column shift.
I bought a floor console and shifter with linkage for $200.
By mocking up the bottom linkage first i could determine where to cut the hole for the shift linkage to pass through.
The console i used was from a later duster or dart.
I dont know if there is enough room between seats for that style.
From there i placed the shifter in car and made the brackets to secure it.
After going through all that, the hurst shifter seems way easier.
 
904 from 66 on is a lever action shifter. The aftermarket shifters all use a cable to manipulate the sector shaft lever on the side of the 904. The OLD 65 used a true cable as in it went into the valve body as a cable and did not have a sector shaft coming up through the case outside the kickdown lever. The aftermarkets will include a bracket to mount to the pan rails to support the new push/pull cable that fastens to the arm shown in this FABO photo. No aftermarket shifter will mount to the existing welded tabs on the tunnel
100_1769.sized.jpg
 
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pishta said:
904 from 66 on is a lever action shifter. The aftermarket shifters all use a cable to manipulate the sector shaft lever on the side of the 904. The OLD 65 used a true cable as in it went into the valve body as a cable and did not have a sector shaft coming up through the case outside the kickdown lever. The aftermarkets will include a bracket to mount to the pan rails to support the new push/pull cable that fastens to the arm shown in this FABO photo. No aftermarket shifter will mount to the existing welded tabs on the tunnel
View attachment 1715330297
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Awesome pic. I got mixed up on the cable and linkage differences. So I am going to go with the hurst and it would seem that I just remove the brackets on the tunnel and mount the shifter in a newish location. Sounds like I don’t have to locate newer a-body shifter mounting brackets. One less thing to purchase or find. Thanks for the help. I’m in the process of installing floor pans and rust proofing the inside.
 
Im Using a B$M Starshifter in my 66 Barracuda. I modified the factory sift mount and moved it back 4" to accomadate the factory console.
 
My plan is to do exactly what Pishta described. If I ever get to meet him in person, I owe him a lunch or dinner since he saved me a bunch of typing! LOL :D
 
JDMopar said:
My plan is to do exactly what Pishta described. If I ever get to meet him in person, I owe him a lunch or dinner since he saved me a bunch of typing! LOL :D
Click to expand...
pishta said:
Install a Hurst Pro-Matic 2 under the stock console and dont look back. Youll have to cut off the old mount down to tunnel. Even the Hurst ball looks stock. Only thing that is different is the HURST on the shaft externally and the lack of stock ball side inserts but you may be able to tap and thread the old ball and screw it on too. IIRC the console ashtray wont fit as there is a shifter piece right there. If you can get the cable travel of the original to match the lever travel of the later 904, you can do it.
Click to expand...
Sorry about digging up an old thread. I understand more about my car then previously discussed. So I read the advice from awhile ago and I think I had things mixed up. I have the original bracket mounts welded to the trans tunnel. It was a 6 904. To clarify do I need to remove the original shifter bracket mounts? If so do I replace with later a-body brackets or do I use what the hurst quarter stick gives me? I am going with a later 904 from a 74’ road runner. Pans are in and inside is chassis saved black. Thanks for putting up with me. The mechanical stuff is not my talent and I am learning mostly from this websites advice.
 
Cut the 2 mounting 'bridges' off the tunnel as the old console shifter actually bolted UP to these 2 hanging points, then just set your shifter down on the now smooth tunnel and center punch the 4 mounting bolts. The stock 65 console fits right over the Hurst shifter guts without the ashtray installed (it hits a Hurst bracket). It takes a few times to get used to the 'lift and pull' safety feature to get it out of Park but the ratchet action from 1-2-3 is precise. Remember to route the shifter cable away from ANY exhaust as it it will find it and melt!
 
pishta said:
Cut the 2 mounting 'bridges' off the tunnel as the old console shifter actually bolted UP to these 2 hanging points, then just set your shifter down on the now smooth tunnel and center punch the 4 mounting bolts. The stock 65 console fits right over the Hurst shifter guts without the ashtray installed (it hits a Hurst bracket). It takes a few times to get used to the 'lift and pull' safety feature to get it out of Park but the ratchet action from 1-2-3 is precise. Remember to route the shifter cable away from ANY exhaust as it it will find it and melt!
Click to expand...
Phista you have been tremendous to me. One last thing is the pro matric similar in install? Trying to make a decision. Also you saved me a lot of stress I thought I was gonna have to do more welding and fabing. Thanks so much for the quick and awesome advice.
 
IIRC they all bolt down flat and have the cable leaving the front. I think the pro-matic is a little taller stick than the pro-matic-2. Drill 1/2" cable hole and then stick a rod in there and bend it back to get the hole to form to the cable angle (high lip in front, low lip in back). Here is a smokin deal on a Pro-matic 2! ...check it out. (not sure if its the multi-transmission sector lever assortment or whole thing)
Hurst 3838510 Pro-Matic 2 Automatic Gear Shift Lever Kit [F867E84] - $89.00 : vivierstore.com
 
pishta said:
IIRC they all bolt down flat and have the cable leaving the front. I think the pro-matic is a little taller stick than the pro-matic-2. Drill 1/2" cable hole and then stick a rod in there and bend it back to get the hole to form to the cable angle (high lip in front, low lip in back). Here is a smokin deal on a Pro-matic 2! ...check it out. (not sure if its the multi-transmission sector lever assortment or whole thing)
Hurst 3838510 Pro-Matic 2 Automatic Gear Shift Lever Kit [F867E84] - $89.00 : vivierstore.com
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Phishta I took your advise and I am going with a promatic hurst shifter. I will be using the original center console of the 65‘. To make sure I remove All the brackets From the tunnel? Then I can use the original console with the prostick 2? Just mount the prostick2 to the flush tunnel minus brackets? Thanks for the help.
 
Robert Corrigan said:
Phishta I took your advise and I am going with a promatic hurst shifter. I will be using the original center console of the 65‘. To make sure I remove All the brackets From the tunnel? Then I can use the original console with the prostick 2? Just mount the prostick2 to the flush tunnel minus brackets? Thanks for the help.
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Yup. the old mount is sort of a hanger contraption that just needs to be ground off the tunnel. Did that $89 link still work?
 
pishta said:
Yup. the old mount is sort of a hanger contraption that just needs to be ground off the tunnel. Did that $89 link still work?
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No but I appreciate the link I found a guy selling me just the shifter mechanism for $30 which I thought was fair. I’ll have to get the cables and knob later. Just bolt to the tunnel I assume? Thanks for the reassurance.
 
$30 is a great price, you can get the cable, trans bracket and any knob from Pep Boys special order. I think the cable that came with the original was way too long anyway.
 
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