LA sequential fuel and spark EFI conversion

Sequential is only truly useful under about 2000 rpm as the valve events start to move faster than the duty cycle of the injectors and they end up spraying on a closed valve anyway at upper RPM's. It was really developed for low speed emissions. After 2K your actually fogging the intake runner and letting the valve take it in when it can. I can save you some coin on the injector rail: Just grab one off a Magnum beer barrel intake. Im building a MS2.2 based controller along your same lines but using a Edelbrock Pro-flow system minus its closed source controller. I chose a 3-BAR MAP off a supercharged Olds for a turbo future. Most of the Edelbrock stuff is rebranded GM or Ford sensors anyway. You can also take a triple crank pulley and notch the unused pulley to make it an integrated 36-1 wheel. My aerospace machineist friend did that to a slant 6 damper I had and made the inner edge the trigger wheel. I learned later that wasn't the best idea as the outer ring of a balancer may wander a bit under varying RPM's. I used an EDIS-6 coil pack on the slant. The MS controls the retard only and the EDIS module controls the rest, timing is directly received by the reluctor wheel pick up. you can also grind 7 of the 8 teeth off an electronic distributor reluctor wheel for a sequential cam sensor. That is a nice tidy build.

You are correct about the sequential FI. If I toggle between batch and sequential at idle, there's a noticeable difference.

I actually started with a Magnum fuel rail, and it would have certainly worked from a functionality standpoint, but I decided the Edelbrock rail was a better solution for the look I was after.

I spent way too much time overthinking the whole trigger wheel setup on this. It seems easy to just put it behind the pulley, but that won't work on a SBM. First, my damper is 1/2" thicker than stock so that pushes all the accessories out. I didn't really want them being pushed out another 1/8". That didn't matter anyway because the wheel would come in contact with the bottom of the water pump if I were to just bolt it to the face of the damper. Not owning a lathe also presented another problem, but I finally came up with what I have. I'd love to see others' solutions for this.