synthetic oil

Seems to be a few oil threads lately.
which do you use....synthetic or dino oil

i know it's oil not oiul...aaarghh!

Here we go.
Oil is oil- Not!
Full synthetic for the new stuff.
Dino for my old stuff.
Synthetic blend is a farce.
Blend or semi-synthetic is 80 to 90 per cent dino.
Dont let the hype fool you.
Honestly, clean oil is always the best.

I kept Mobil 1 in a Buick Regal. After 350,000 miles it ran absolutely like new.
Synthetic oil doesn't have the sulfur to combine with water and make sulfuric acid that eats up your engine.

Beware of what the US calls synthetic oil. Group III synthetics are not really synthetic. That's why you can use them with alcohol based fuels, where a true synthetic doesn't like any alcohol based fuel.

In fact, there are relatively inexpensive group IV synthetics that work ok by themselves but a quality synthetic is a blend of different synthetic base stocks.

Then, as an engine oil, it has to have certain additives, viscosity index improvers, detergents, dispersants and such. All those components come in every cost and quality, just like the base stocks. That's why cheap oils are cheap. They use the lowest quality base stocks, additives VI improvers and such. And, they use the absolute minimum of these additives to make the UPI grade. It all saves costs but a cheap oil is just that.

Does it mean it doesn't work? Even cheap oils do enough to keep stuff from metallic intercourse. It's the other things like valve spring life that shows up with better oils.

No problems with Mobil 1 in my 318.

Valvoline Racing changed every 3,000 miles. Everything running like new...

I use what the engines need for use it sees.
You should too.
#1. Correct viscosity for the operating temperatures and clearances. Based on FSM or builder's recommendations.
#2. A multi-grade that will get the to target viscosity under the uses the engine sees.
#2 a. An engine in cold climate, that does short trips is where a synthetic or semi-synthetic is usually better.
#2 b. For cold winter use, compare "Pour Points". Synthetics are almost always lower for the same grade as Dino.
#3 Look at other stuff based on use.
#3 a. Non-cat flat tappet I still prefer zddp based anti-wear package, and some moly if possible.
#3 b. Cat equipped flat tappet, same but I look for somewhat lower concentration when running stock valve train. 800-1000 ppm.
#3 c. First few thousand miles after break in, conventional oil if at all possible.

I have used synthetic but i have seen so many vehicles go past 400 k on regular oil i don't think you are gaining anything in real world use because dino is more than adequate.Synthetic is certainly better in extreme tests and on paper.
I have gone back to 5w30 dino.

0w20 Synth oil in my late '80s roller 318.

yellow rose said:

Beware of what the US calls synthetic oil. Group III synthetics are not really synthetic. That's why you can use them with alcohol based fuels, where a true synthetic doesn't like any alcohol based fuel.

In fact, there are relatively inexpensive group IV synthetics that work ok by themselves but a quality synthetic is a blend of different synthetic base stocks.

Then, as an engine oil, it has to have certain additives, viscosity index improvers, detergents, dispersants and such. All those components come in every cost and quality, just like the base stocks. That's why cheap oils are cheap. They use the lowest quality base stocks, additives VI improvers and such. And, they use the absolute minimum of these additives to make the UPI grade. It all saves costs but a cheap oil is just that.

Does it mean it doesn't work? Even cheap oils do enough to keep stuff from metallic intercourse. It's the other things like valve spring life that shows up with better oils.

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YR is right about group III synthetics. The US is the only country in the world that sez they are synthetic. That all started with Castrol making up their own rules about what is/is not synthetic. Castrol got a favorable court decision as I recall...

I've used too many brands and weights of oil to count. Never had a lube related failure but I have used a few ai didn't like for whatever reason.

CITGO 10w30 was the worst... oil temp was so high you'd burn your hands touching the dipstick. Replaced with Mobil 1 you could lick the damn stick with your tongue and not hurt it. That was in my E350, 5.8 gas running 2,000 miles + per week hauling auto parts.

I use Royal Purple in all the small engines I work on. I use conventional (usually) in our vehicles. I say usually because this last oil change I did to my Valiant, I used Synthetic.

RustyRatRod said:

I use Royal Purple in all the small engines I work on. I use conventional (usually) in our vehicles. I say usually because this last oil change I did to my Valiant, I used Synthetic.

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Royal Purple is a good oil. IIRC it's not a straight PAO or ester base. I don't remember what they use for EP but it may be liquid moly.

One of the very worst oils I've tried made great power on the dyno. Like 10 better across the board over Torco. It stumped me. So I called an actual Tribologist and he said that particular brand was loaded with chlorine. It's great for short term power increases but it has a short service life before it becomes ineffective. That was the fourth pull on the dyno. By the sixth pull it was 20 down from the Torco.

There is also a very nasty side effect of chlorine in engine oil (or any oil that needs an EP additive) has and that is when the oil is hot it sheds off of steel parts. Like lifter bodies, cam lobes, cylinder walls and the like. The chlorine that is left literally will etch the surface of the metal it's sitting on. That customer had been killing roller wheels and couldn't find a reason. And that was the reason. That chlorine was etching the needles in the roller wheel, the needles would no longer roller and the end was quick. And deadly.

That's why I say oil is not just oil. It costs a ton of money to accurately test oils. Or fuels. There a 3, maybe 4 oils right now that will lay the dyno graph one right over the other, with the correct testing. Then from there, it drops off a bit to second level oils, like Redline, RP, Lucas and several others I can't think of now. And those oils are all great. After that, oil quality usually drops with cost.

Oh yeah...I forgot...guys using that oil were breaking valve springs for no reason. Zero pressure loss, nothing. Again, the chlorine would etch the wire, it was also nearly impossible to spot and the wire would fracture right there. I know what brand the oil was, but they weren't the manufacturer. They were paying as a private label or I'd name it. I don't know what other brand was bottled by that same company, but I'm sure it was more than one.