1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet Hardtop

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2legit2quit

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New to the site and looking for some guidance on a budget build. I recently inherited a 2 door Valiant from my grandma. It has a 2 barrel 273 in it. 3 on the tree automatic, bench seat. Can I make the motor into a commando and add a edelbrock ld4b aluminum intake, layson’s full headers, 10.5:1 egge pistons, Holley 650 carb, and a Isky camshaft as close to stock? What can I do about upgrading the k-member? Who builds a affordable coil over suspension, these torsion bars got to go lol. The front end can use a weight reduction and use some tubular. I would like to improve the steering, what’s the best manual modern day steering for daily driving and slight racing around. Will 15X8 wheelvintiques fit without modification? I found a company that produces a fiber glass hood and trunk lid so I can reduce more weight there too. It has a 7-1/4 rear end, not sure of the gears. Do I need sub connectors, if I want to make it a manual transmission will I need to fabricate a tunnel for the floor
 
I see no one else was responding to this, so I thought I'd share my advice and opinions, and remember, you asked....
New to the site and looking for some guidance on a budget build. I recently inherited a 2 door Valiant from my grandma. It has a 2 barrel 273 in it. 3 on the tree automatic, bench seat.
Can I make the motor into a commando and add a edelbrock ld4b aluminum intake, layson’s full headers, 10.5:1 egge pistons, Holley 650 carb, and a Isky camshaft as close to stock?
You might be able to, but those modifications will likely cost as much or more than a good 360 crate motor, which will be more reliable, have more power, and allow you to keep the original motor all original, since that seems to be important to you.
What can I do about upgrading the k-member?
Why would you want to do that? You're are doing a budget build, not building a race car.
Who builds a affordable coil over suspension, these torsion bars got to go lol.
No, they don't actually. Torsion bars work very well and were used in very successful road race cars. Again, this is money you don't need to spend to just have a fun nice driving car.
The front end can use a weight reduction and use some tubular. Again, you are not building a race car. This is all just extra expense for very little actual return I would like to improve the steering, what’s the best manual modern day steering for daily driving and slight racing around. Rebuild the steering box in the car, it works fine for street and moderate performance use. Will 15X8 wheelvintiques fit without modification? I'm not 100% sure, but on a 66 no, I don't think so. I found a company that produces a fiber glass hood and trunk lid so I can reduce more weight there too. Again, why? The steel parts you have are more durable, likely fit better and best of all cost you nothing. It has a 7-1/4 rear end, not sure of the gears. Do I need sub connectors, if I want to make it a manual transmission will I need to fabricate a tunnel for the floor
Honestly, my advice would be to swap in a nice crate motor with a warranty, and rebuild whatever needs fixing. The result will be a fun, head turning, but relatively economical car that you can enjoy and won't take you two years and 30 grand to complete.
 
I have no problems with my torsion bars, I put in 1.03 pst bars, urethane lower bushings, tubular uppers, new leafs out back and mine handles fine. I did add frame connectors and dumped the 7.25 out back for an 8.75. even my mild slant could kill the 7.25. im running 17" steelies, dumping the 14"-15" tires made a big difference in how the car drives. I will second the crate engine or even a rebuilt one. even a decent magnum5.2 rebuild will put out more than that 273. in the end its your car, build it how You want and Drive the crap out of it!
 
Welcome!
First we love to see pictures.
Yes you could re-build you 273 as the Commando but as a budget build it’d be quicker-easier to drop in a 318 for about the same performance. Or there are other good choices such as crate motors.
The 7 1/4” isn’t up to too much more power; a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 will fix that.
The wheel wells limits the tire & wheel size, like other cars of this period the current huge tires don’t fit the small wells.
Not sure the front suspension needs to be replaced - the torsion bars work well and put their load low in the frame.
Hope this helps.
 
sounds as all advice given was good I did this same thing b for 67 k frames used different engine mounts. change K frame 2 a 67 and newer u have no problem on newer 273 318/ but a 340 or early 360. no mag 360. torsion bars may need cranked up. rear same as 67 up on width. 7 1/4 0r 8 3/4. I have built both ford 9 has a rear bearing on pinion. where dose not. have fun.
 
64-66 k frames are the same for slant 6, and 273 V8. only the center link needs changed, for oil pan clearence, if changing to a V8. You will need to mod one of the motor mounts to put in a 340, or 360.
Dave
 
I had one sale me. that car I had x 273 I put 440 then sold. they any one want more than me.
 
cheap ist way change K frame to a newer as 67 - 70 this dude I heard from I s using old frames . mopar uses a K FRAME that will bolt under .. any mopar E body early . all b bodies got ebodies floor plans in 1973. so a e body had same floor pan. still a abody nut'
 
2legit2quit, you don't need to change out your K frame or change your drop link if you stay with stock front suspension, if you go this way you should look at new motor mounts if they are original. Sub frame connectors are also a good add on.
If you want to run coil overs you can look at HemiDenny Hemmy Denny or Reilly MotorSports, Inc. but these are not cheap but both make suspension coil overs for early Abodies.
 
Only one post?
He's fallen for the all the suspension must be changed syndrome shown on the tv shows.
Yeah, when you are starting with GM and Ford junk. Good idea.
 
64-66 k frames are the same for slant 6, and 273 V8. only the center link needs changed, for oil pan clearence, if changing to a V8. You will need to mod one of the motor mounts to put in a 340, or 360.
Dave
He said it already has a factory 273 V8 in it so no need to change steering.
 
Just rebuild the 273 or put a 318/5.2 in for the cheap. Enjoy the car. This is my driver that I put together nothing special just a stock 273 auto trans. Stock suspension car as well. Only updated brakes. Just enjoy it and have fun.

36DC6A61-52DD-4F3E-9D97-306E9FCFB7E9.jpeg
 
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