PCV and Breather suggestions

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71Twister440

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Hello all, I am currently trying to dial in my 440 6 pack. Over the last year at idle once crankcase pressure builds up it is pressure/oil is venting through the breathers, spitting oil onto the headers. I am pretty sure I have the PCV valve and line going into the incorrect port, and also 2 breathers which I think is excessive. I think the direction I need to go is drop the PCV line into the lower port on the center carb, put one breather on the drivers side and block off the other hole in the passenger side. There are currently baffles under both breathers. I have ordered an oil separator that I will add into the PCV line once it gets here but for now I want to see if this fixes the pressure and oil spitting issue. Looking for any advice, learning as I go here. Please let me know what everyone thinks or if I am headed in the right direction. As always thank you for the help and advice FABO.
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Is that the correct original pcv hose routing? I am surprised to see it plumbed into a secondary carb. Does it have vacuum at idle?
 
Is that the correct original pcv hose routing? I am surprised to see it plumbed into a secondary carb. Does it have vacuum at idle?

I am unaware if it is the original correct routing, This car has had many hands in it, not all were 100% on the info they had, that's why I am working on refining it, in fact I haven't checked exactly what if any vacuum the engine has at idle. I will try and get that done tonight or tomorrow.
 
mewagner.com

Expensive, I guess, oil spitting all over, no, better idle, I think. Why spend a ton of $ on everything else and buy a cheap parts store piece of garbage.

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you have your PCV going where the original breather is supposed to go. if you're going to leave the breathers you have you will need to block off those ports on the carbs. someone has to have a schematic and I bet they will post it here for you.
 
mewagner.com

Expensive, I guess, oil spitting all over, no, better idle, I think. Why spend a ton of $ on everything else and buy a cheap parts store piece of garbage.

View attachment 1715333260
I have been looking into that adjustable PCV, I am not opposed at all to it, I just dk if my line routing and breather situation is even correct. Also I should have mentioned motor is .30 over, Eddy alum heads, mild cam,
 
Vacuum line, don't know on a 6 pack.
I have the pcv on one side, breather on the other, nothing else, aluminum heads, tunnel ram, etc.
No more hemorrhaging oil all over the place.
 
you 100% need to move that PCV line, any manifold proper size vacuum port will do. I just talked to a buddy who has a 440-6 car and he mentioned that exact location depended on year, that would only matter if you are going restoration look. You should be looking at the back of the carbs or to the low side of the middle carb. it will be on the same side as the PCV.
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Boy , did I get an education . I was unaware that the PCV hose was connected to the bowl vent of the carb . I always thought the PCV hose connected to the base of the carb . Silly me . And, I guess I was mistaken that the PVC needs vacuum to work and doesn't work at low vacuum . Again , stupid me .
 
Generally speaking, your PCV valve should be connected to the vacuum port below the throttle blades on the carb. I'm not familiar enough with the six pack to tell you exactly where this is on your setup. but I would expect it to be on the center carb, below the throttle plates on the right hand side of the engine.
 
I am unaware if it is the original correct routing, This car has had many hands in it, not all were 100% on the info they had, that's why I am working on refining it, in fact I haven't checked exactly what if any vacuum the engine has at idle. I will try and get that done tonight or tomorrow.

To make this a bit more clear, that hose that goes to your PCV valve is connected to your carb vent when it is supposed to be going from the PCV valve to an intake vacuum source.
Where it is now is not creating a vacuum to pull case pressure out very likely causing your oil blowing problem.

Gary posted while I was typing.
 
Pcv not hooked up correctly on a 318 of mine caused moisture to build up in the oil.

Do the terms ported and manifold vacuum apply to these carbs, meaning do they have one or more of each?
 
Boy , did I get an education . I was unaware that the PCV hose was connected to the bowl vent of the carb . I always thought the PCV hose connected to the base of the carb . Silly me . And, I guess I was mistaken that the PVC needs vacuum to work and doesn't work at low vacuum . Again , stupid me .
:wtf: this is one of the most obnoxious and unhelpful posts I have read, and coming from me that it saying something! :wtf:
 
Post 5 nailed it. That Wagner PCV valve is the schiizznizzle. Most over the counter PCV valves are universal, in that they fit mostly nothing. After 5-7 years the manufacturers start consolidating part numbers. And believe it or not, those things were calibrated for size and spring pressure. When they start eliminating part numbers you get a PCV valve that isn't right, and you can't fix it.

Plus, the Wagner is tuneable for idle and cruise. That makes it double cool.
 
Post 5 nailed it. That Wagner PCV valve is the schiizznizzle. Most over the counter PCV valves are universal, in that they fit mostly nothing. After 5-7 years the manufacturers start consolidating part numbers. And believe it or not, those things were calibrated for size and spring pressure. When they start eliminating part numbers you get a PCV valve that isn't right, and you can't fix it.

Plus, the Wagner is tuneable for idle and cruise. That makes it double cool.

Which won't solve a thing unless it's connected to a vacuum source instead of a carb vent.:D
Of course I know you know that.
 
The other thing that I ran into with my Mopar Performance Valve covers is the passenger side back oil filler/breather hole does not have the oil deflector shield covering the hole like the driver side one did so when the car is running the rockers are throwing oil onto the breather and soaking it. I put a regular oil cap on that one and it took care of my problems using one breather on the driver side and the pcv on the passenger side.
 
The other thing that I ran into with my Mopar Performance Valve covers is the passenger side back oil filler/breather hole does not have the oil deflector shield covering the hole like the driver side one did so when the car is running the rockers are throwing oil onto the breather and soaking it. I put a regular oil cap on that one and it took care of my problems using one breather on the driver side and the pcv on the passenger side.

Which is about how it should be set up.
I put the PCV on one side and a vent tube on the other side to the air cleaner assembly inside the filter area.
This makes it pull case pressure out of one valve cover and filtered air into the other cover.
Both openings on my covers have baffles, so I didn't have to deal with that fortunately.

I Tee'd my PCV right into my brake booster hose right behind the carb thinking and expecting it might affect the vacuum for the brakes but it made zero difference in how the brakes worked, but if you put your hand over the open valve cover cap hole at idle it will almost put a 2 inch hickey on your hand after 30 seconds.
 
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you 100% need to move that PCV line, any manifold proper size vacuum port will do. I just talked to a buddy who has a 440-6 car and he mentioned that exact location depended on year, that would only matter if you are going restoration look. You should be looking at the back of the carbs or to the low side of the middle carb. it will be on the same side as the PCV.
View attachment 1715333601
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Original setups with the bowl vents like the OP were for the evaporative control system (ECS) equiped cars.
To make that operational I think that requires the three nipple breather (shown in your other photos). Otherwise treat like a standard carb vented into the aircleaner.
More pictures here: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...a-carb-hose-routing-question.html#Post2536445
 
Post 5 nailed it. That Wagner PCV valve is the schiizznizzle. Most over the counter PCV valves are universal, in that they fit mostly nothing. After 5-7 years the manufacturers start consolidating part numbers. And believe it or not, those things were calibrated for size and spring pressure. When they start eliminating part numbers you get a PCV valve that isn't right, and you can't fix it.

Plus, the Wagner is tuneable for idle and cruise. That makes it double cool.
Those look like the answer unless you have them hooked to the bowl vent. Sounds like the op bought it that way. Too bad those PCV's are so f ugly!
 
I Tee'd my PCV right into my brake booster hose right behind the carb thinking and expecting it might affect the vacuum for the brakes but it made zero difference in how the brakes worked, but if you put your hand over the open valve cover cap hole at idle it will almost put a 2 inch hickey on your hand after 30 seconds.
I tried this but plumbed it to the brake port on the intake of my AG, but it made that cylinder go lean and introduced a tip-in sag. I was trying to save a couple of seconds in carb RnR. One step forward, two steps back..................
 
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the info, this car is a mixup from buncha hands over the years and i have been knocking the ugly and messed up off it since I got it into my hands. You guys are the best, i am going to flip these lines and order a wagner PCV.
 
I tried this but plumbed it to the brake port on the intake of my AG, but it made that cylinder go lean and introduced a tip-in sag. I was trying to save a couple of seconds in carb RnR. One step forward, two steps back..................

I have an Edelbrock so it goes right to the carb base instead of one cylinder runner.
 
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