Buffer/Polisher Recommendations

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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I was looking and polishing some of the trim on my car. I dont have a lot so I dont want to spend a lot of money on one. I was wondering if any of you have either converted a bench grinder into a buffer, or purchased this unit from Harbor Freight? Thoughts??
6 in. Buffer
61557_W3.jpg
 
That will work ok for trim, I don't like the loose leaf type of buffing wheel, easy to catch a snag on small parts and sheds quickly. While you are there they do carry buff sticks in different grades, but again I use paste type of chrome cleaner, messy yes but it seems to have a better shine. Try to find a buffing wheel that is sewn together put it on one side for heavy cut/clean and loose leaf for high buff if you wish.....

Installing a buffing wheel on a bench grinder will work also in a pinch, but as you see in your photo you have way more working area, thanks to the extended motor shafts.
 
...and no safety shield
 
As someone who has done a lot of polishing, Be very aware how you hold your part to the buffing wheel. It will grab the part, and fling it across the shop. It can also mangle a trim piece the second you aren't focused. Sorry I don't know about that buffer.
 
I just mounted a buffing wheel to my bench grinder and let'r buck! But more of a solid wheel, not that flappy thing. I also used the buffing compound sticks as well as some other polish. they all work fine to me. Wear gloves and keep a FIRM grip on your trim!
 
What Dicer said.

YY1 said:
...and no safety shield
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I don't think I've ever seen a buffer with any kind of guarding that would actually allow decent access to the wheel. It's a process with risk of injury and you better pay attention to what you are doing.

No loose clothing, long hair, and gloves may not be a good idea.
 
Just pointing out a difference between a grinder
 
I have the larger of the two Harbor freight buffers.

Works great! Should do everything DIY home shop person would ask of it.

Prep is everything. filing, Sanding, rubber impregnated deburr wheels, etc can help and effect the buffing results.

And there are various buffing wheels for different condition levels and material you are buffing.
 
The reason for the special buffer vs a traditional grinder is the length of the snout. You need that to work around long and larger parts.

My friend has the smaller HF grinder, IIRC ~$20 difference, and he can tell the difference with my slightly more HP one. We ran them side by side when he needed to polish trim quickly without changing wheel buffs and compounds.

I would suggest getting the more HP Harbor Freight one. You already saving dollars doing it yourself... you will get $20 worth of saved time spread out over its years of use.
 
I just mounted this same HF 6” buffer. It’s pretty weak and bogs easily. I should have gotten the higher HP one. Throw away the pads that come with it. It throws a lot of material right out of the box and isn’t sewn well. I ordered new Elkay ones from Amazon.
 
furyus2 said:
As someone who has done a lot of polishing, Be very aware how you hold your part to the buffing wheel. It will grab the part, and fling it across the shop. It can also mangle a trim piece the second you aren't focused. Sorry I don't know about that buffer.
Click to expand...
^THIS^ 110%, it can also fling the part back at you, normally this involves an attempt at finger/head removal by said part. I also had a thin piece get hooked then cork screwed itself around the wheel once and it acted like a 2500rpm flail until I was able to kill power to the polisher...
 
I thought about a HF wheel also. I didn't have much trim either.
I ended up just wet sanding by hand with 800, 1500, 2000 paper and then Meguiars Mag polish.
Taped off some pieces with paint tape which saved time and hassle of removing the trim.
Came out great!!
 
Go with the larger Harbor Fright buffer. I have one and it works great.

The advantage of using a larger buffer is you can use a larger diameter wheel. It will cut faster because the wheel speed is higher at the same RPM because of the diameter. I even use 10" wheels on my 8" buffer. It does increase the chance of shooting a piece across the shop, but the results are better.

Eastwood has some good assortments of wheels and compounds to get you started. You can order also wheels from these guys. https://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/wheels.html Download their polishing booklet.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies and input. Very informative!

Im well aware of the parts catching and flying from back in the high school days shop class. Not to mention wearing the compound on my face and body. I'll look into the larger buffer.

I was looking at the pieces on the car last night and Im not even sure what material they are. The main pieces are the trunk lip trim. This is on a Scamp. They look like Aluminum, but I suppose they could be stainless. Could someone let me know what they are made out of?
 
straightlinespeed said:
Thanks everyone for the replies and input. Very informative!

Im well aware of the parts catching and flying from back in the high school days shop class. Not to mention wearing the compound on my face and body. I'll look into the larger buffer.

I was looking at the pieces on the car last night and Im not even sure what material they are. The main pieces are the trunk lip trim. This is on a Scamp. They look like Aluminum, but I suppose they could be stainless. Could someone let me know what they are made out of?
Click to expand...
I do believe trunk trim on the scamps/darts/challengers/etc are all thin aluminum.
other trim like winshield/rear glass will be stainless steel,
still others like dart fender extension & hood trim will be chrome.
...there that should clear it up for ya...lol.
 
Harbor freight also sells wheels that you can chuck in your drill press, they work great for trim pieces.
 
Bodyperson said:
Be careful side loading a drill press if the chuck has a morse taper.
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You are not putting alot of pressure on the drill when polishing, but good to know, yes my press has a morse taper, but the diameter of the wheel is like 1", and I have it running on the slowest speed, like 750 rpms.
 
sireland67 said:
You are not putting alot of pressure on the drill when polishing, but good to know, yes my press has a morse taper, but the diameter of the wheel is like 1", and I have it running on the slowest speed, like 750 rpms.
Click to expand...
I had mine come loose but I was hogging in it pretty hard. Treating it like a mill on some wood.
 
It had way more bite than a simple side load on a piece of trim.
 
A 3/4 hp 3450 rpm buffing machine will work good. A slower rpm machine say around the 1100 rpm range is for wood and plastic. Every wheel and compound has a purpose. The condition of the pieces you are buffing will determine what wheel and compound you use. Generally start with a spiral sewn wheel like pictured above then move to your loose cotton (no stitching). Never ever mix your compounds on the wheels. Always dedicate a compound to each wheel. Some sanding may have to take place before buffing. Sand all the way out to 2000 grit. There are specific compounds for stainless. If buffing aluminum then coat the piece with something when you are done buffing to prevent oxidation.
 
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