BB A-body fenderwell headers and Master cylinder brake line help

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mopower440

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Question for the guys running fenderwell headers..what did you do about the 2 brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve? The fenderwell headers go right through the spot that these MC lines run.. Years ago when i put this car together (when i was a kid) I just bent the lines out of the way and did a horrible job. Today i tried to bend them a little more as they are too close to the header tube and cracked one of the lines coming out of the MC. SO, time to replace those 2 lines, but i will end up having to bend those as they will be the same shape as these were originally..Is anyone making prebent lines for fenderwell headers? Got to get this fixed asap..
 
Here's where I ran mine.

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No I made the lines up. they go back to the firewall. then directly down to the porp. valve. What is not shown is that there is a heat shield under the master cyl.
 
Coffee&Cars said:
No I made the lines up. they go back to the firewall. then directly down to the porp. valve. What is not shown is that there is a heat shield under the master cyl.
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That is what i want to do instead of buying the prebent ones..make them, like you did..Can you tell me what to get? Did you buy straight sticks of brake line with the flares and nuts already on them and then just bent them?
 
Ok, if i want to buy 2 sticks of brakeline the proper length that already is flared with the correct nuts on each end, what size line and nuts do i need?
 
Sorry I can't give you the exact size of the tubing. I just matched it up to what was there. One thing for sure you need the proper flair nuts to match up to the Mopar master cylinder. You will need a flair tool that makes double flairs. Do not use a single flair they will crack. They are cheep about 10 bucks. To bend them I used a simple hand tube bender. Also cheep. Get yourself a few sticks and have at it. P.S. Don't forget to put the nuts on the tube before you flair the pipe. It's not hard to do. Just give it a go and you will figure it out.
 
It's very easy. Those lines are sold in different lengths. They are #3 size so I just ordered the fittings to match the line. Like in the roll control it needed a 90* elbow and and straight fitting. The rear one that you cant see in the rear just needed a straight fitting. Up at the mater it took bango fittings.
Ted

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Guys does anyone here know off hand what size thread and thread pitch the flair nuts are that go into the master cylinder and also on the other end of those 2 MC lines where they go into the proportioning valve? Im at work at the moment so I don't have them with me but have a chance to get some new ones if I knew the correct size and pitch of the threads..
 
DusTed74 said:
It's very easy. Those lines are sold in different lengths. They are #3 size so I just ordered the fittings to match the line. Like in the roll control it needed a 90* elbow and and straight fitting. The rear one that you cant see in the rear just needed a straight fitting. Up at the mater it took bango fittings.
Ted

View attachment 1715335013

View attachment 1715335014
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Where do get these lines
 
mopower440 said:
Guys does anyone here know off hand what size thread and thread pitch the flair nuts are that go into the master cylinder and also on the other end of those 2 MC lines where they go into the proportioning valve? Im at work at the moment so I don't have them with me but have a chance to get some new ones if I knew the correct size and pitch of the threads..
Click to expand...
Why dont you just cut the ones off the old lines and put them on the new lines then put new flairs on the lines?
 
Don't know it it will help but look close at the throttle bracket extension. This simple bracket raises it to fit a tall manifold. In fact you can make it to the exact height you need. Also you can also see the driver side front engine limiter bar. And for what it's worth you'll notice I do not have any 5 foot long spark plug wires.
 
Tip from the road racing world:
More hard line the better, it will result in a firmer pedal feel, flex lines will expand so keep the use to a minimum.
 
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