More torsion bar questions...

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Okibonoe

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Hey there, 1st post, loooongtime lurker. Im putting together a different Mopar combo, and wanted some suggestions.

Im putting together a 73 Dart Sport with an inline turbo 4 cylinder, all stock pick-up points on the suspension. Most drag front suspension setups for A bodies are based around a 440 (620lbs ish) or a 360 (510lbs ish), in addition to a full sized radiator. My motor weighs around 300lbs, plus a half radiator, so there will be alot less weight off the front end. My guess is .810 torsion bars will be too stiff, so what do you guys think in terms of torsion bars and/or front end mods that would help storing up and transfering that weight and energy? Thanks in advance...
 
Hey there, 1st post, loooongtime lurker. Im putting together a different Mopar combo, and wanted some suggestions.

Im putting together a 73 Dart Sport with an inline turbo 4 cylinder, all stock pick-up points on the suspension. Most drag front suspension setups for A bodies are based around a 440 (620lbs ish) or a 360 (510lbs ish), in addition to a full sized radiator. My motor weighs around 300lbs, plus a half radiator, so there will be alot less weight off the front end. My guess is .810 torsion bars will be too stiff, so what do you guys think in terms of torsion bars and/or front end mods that would help storing up and transfering that weight and energy? Thanks in advance...


If it were me, I'd call a company called Firm Feel and ask to speak with Dick. He owns the company. I know they have their own torsion bars made. He may have what you need, or may be able to get something made for you.


And, you are correct in that a bigger (stiffer) torsion bar will make it harder to transfer weight. Shocks are of paramount importance as well, because the shock must control the motion of the spring. For most applications I think it's better to run a lighter spring rate and use the shock to control it, rather than a heavier spring rate and then force the shock to do something it's not designed for.


BTW...WELCOME.
 
I have an original set of bars from my '63 Dodge 330, Slant 6, so they are probably the "lightest" bars that were made. They are from a original California car, and very clean. I can get more info on them for you if interested, Thanks...
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Thanks for the response guys. Yeah, my car was a 3 on the tree Slant 6. Im looking at freeing up every possible point of contact on the front suspension during the rebuild.

Yellow Rose, I'll do that. And a good set of DA shocks are in the plan.

Vandan, that info would be appreciated.
 
No idea whatever it is and a beer. Need a few days its raining here most of the week. Bee a real ***** to get to huh?:rofl:
 
Yes, the .810 Bars at 90#/in are the lightest, part number P5249148. Slant six bars are .83 at 92#/in numbers 2071622-3 2535888-9.. If you need lighter than .810 custom might be the only solution.
 
Yes, I measured them, and they are 41". The '63s are the change over, as the front ends are B-body, and the rears are A-body, dimensionally...
 
This could be a very cool build. Is it too early to ask what engine you plan to use?
I have a similar turbo four banger plan but I am a few years out from starting on it. I got the idea after finding a cool looking older four cylinder engine in a local junk yard.
 
Bobzilla, sure! And its all in the family.

Mitsubishi 4g63. Chrysler and Mitsu, old teammates, DSM style. Block, crank, and head support 950hp in stock, form. Crazy lil motor. Using an adapter plate, and the US Tool 200 4r crossmember to slide a Turbo 350 behind it. Some 4.88's or 5.13's because it spins to 9000 + rpm.
 
I thought you were going to say that 1/2 an LA block circle track motor. You can use any LA head on it.
 
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Another view. I think the block was sold through mopar performance
 
Oh yeah, i remember those. So sweet!

Buuuut, that motor probably will cost more than my entire car lol.
 
It always seemed very smart to me. You probably could run a v8 cam,valve train, it looks to have the fifth head bolt. One header.
 
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