Guess my horsepower/et

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1bad360duster

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new combo I’m gonna run soon.
360 magnum block stock bores, icon standard weight forged flat tops. It’s 10.7 to 1 compression. Stock rods with arp bolts, stock crank, Mopar performance windage tray, Edelbrock magnum heads flowing 295 at .600 with 2.05 valves. Hydraulic roller 239/247 at 50 .600 lift. Air gap intake with port match and plenum work, with 1.5 inch spacer with four hole taper. 750 brawler race carb. Have electric water pump and fan. 1 5/8 headers with 3 inch x pipe and bullets. Have evac kit installed that’s pulling 4 inches of vacuum at 5500 rpm. This will be in a duster 3200 race ready, 904 with 2.75 low, 4000 stall 9.5 inch converter, 4.10 rear and 29 inch tall 295 drag radials. It’s a previous good working chassis. Guesses?? And what will peak/max horsepower rpm be?
 
That's hard to say. Wild guess 460-475 horsepower @ 6400 RPM? I don't know (no less than 415). 11.9 ET @ 120 MPH.
 
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I was
dibbons said:
That's hard to say. Wild guess 460-475 horsepower @ 6400 RPM? I don't know (no less than 415). 11.9 ET @ 120 MPH.
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hoping for 475 to 500 and 11.30s or better is the goal. The car has a good working chassis
 
Cam ,converter and gear are holding you back from being a 10 second ride. 250 something -265 duration at .50 cam and an 8 inch converter and 430 + gear , watch out.
right now you should reach your goal of 11.30s , that cam is a street cam , so is the converter. I like it though, tune what you got and have fun.
 
What cam grind and how much overlap? Potential by online calculators show in the neighborhood of over 500 horsepower if your head flow is correct. I think your targeted goal for power is a little more realistic, and with a properly working chassis and the low gear set with a good converter, low elevens should be within reach.
 
RedB. said:
Cam ,converter and gear are holding you back from being a 10 second ride. 250 something -265 duration at .50 cam and an 8 inch converter and 430 + gear , watch out.
right now you should reach your goal of 11.30s , that cam is a street cam , so is the converter. I like it though, tune what you got and have fun.
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It is a street car mostly so I’d be happy with low elevens. The converter was setup to stall 4000 behind a 360 that made 385 horsepower so maybe it will stall more with this motor??? Also I will spray it with a 100-175 shot so it should be better for that
 
Garrett Ellison said:
What cam grind and how much overlap? Potential by online calculators show in the neighborhood of over 500 horsepower if your head flow is correct. I think your targeted goal for power is a little more realistic, and with a properly working chassis and the low gear set with a good converter, low elevens should be within reach.
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It’s a 108 lobe separation
 
mopowers said:
Right on. The car should rip! Just be sure to update this thread with the number - good or bad. Too many folks post these 'what'll it run' threads and don't ever update them.
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I’ll update it, I’m interested to see what it will run as you don’t see too many builds with heads flowing this good on a bottom end like mine. Usually it’s a 408. It’s been running a little bit and I got my accelerator pumps tuned good and it feels pretty quick on the street so far
 
You have a combo very similar to mine
My 360 shortblock though is bone stock. 30 over, stock cast pistons,stock rods with good bolts, stock crank.
I have eddies that received minor, but well thought out porting( dont have flow numbers but suspect 275 ish@ 600)
260/264 howards solid cam 565/565 lift, on a 106 in at 102. Wish i had 1.6 rockers to try for extra lift
We milled heads and running 028 head gasket. Compression around 10.3 to 1
1 5/8 Dougs headers into muffs, 950 Holley, stock airgap intake, 4.10 gear. 275 by 28 radial. tire. 8 inch 5k flash convertor. 4 hole tapered spacer
I shift it at 6200, has been 11.26 best mph 119. Car weighs 3300 with me in it.
Yours needs more camshaft, more convertor. Suspect it should run similar to mine. You have better heads, worked intake, etc. 100 pounds lighter car
Could go anywhere from 11.0xx to 11.30’s.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
 
Also I will spray it with a 100-175 shot so it should be better for that[/QUOTE]
High 10’s with that kind of a nitrous hit on that combination, and starting to push the limits of the stock block and nearly stock bottom end.
 
B3422w5 said:
You have a combo very similar to mine
My 360 shortblock though is bone stock. 30 over, stock cast pistons,stock rods with good bolts, stock crank.
I have eddies that received minor, but well thought out porting( dont have flow numbers but suspect 275 ish@ 600)
260/264 howards solid cam 565/565 lift, on a 106 in at 102. Wish i had 1.6 rockers to try for extra lift
We milled heads and running 028 head gasket. Compression around 10.3 to 1
1 5/8 Dougs headers into muffs, 950 Holley, stock airgap intake, 4.10 gear. 275 by 28 radial. tire. 8 inch 5k flash convertor. 4 hole tapered spacer
I shift it at 6200, has been 11.26 best mph 119. Car weighs 3300 with me in it.
Yours needs more camshaft, more convertor. Suspect it should run similar to mine. You have better heads, worked intake, etc. 100 pounds lighter car
Could go anywhere from 11.0xx to 11.30’s.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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So I guess the question is how much will the heads really make up for lack of cam and converter? That will be interesting to see. also my duration is a little low but my lift is higher at .606
 
1bad360duster said:
So I guess the question is how much will the heads really make up for lack of cam and converter? That will be interesting to see. also my duration is a little low but my lift is higher at .606
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Actually the cam i have is “ one size too big” with what i have as a motor. It fortunately was sitting on a shelf when i needed a cam fast. Would have preferred something more like 252-254@ 50 with my low compression. I had a 4500 flash convertor in mine i swapped out. Going to the 5000 flash picked up the 60 foot a whole tenth. Went from 1.62 to 1.52.
Unfortunately its a bit loose on the big end and gives most of that away.
Gonna try a 4.30 gear after i make my first outing this year with the car completely rewired. My voltages were way low before. Want to see what if anything that does hopefully this weekend before the gear swap. Hopefully little bit more gear tightens the convertor up a bit. But one change at a time so i can see if happy voltsges did anything on my ET slip first
I think your car will run fine, but something 12-15 degrees bigger would shine. With where your convertor is, the smaller cam you have will work better right now, i think
 
B3422w5 said:
Actually the cam i have is “ one size too big” with what i have as a motor. It fortunately was sitting on a shelf when i needed a cam fast. Would have preferred something more like 252-254@ 50 with my low compression. I had a 4500 flash convertor in mine i swapped out. Going to the 5000 flash picked up the 60 foot a whole tenth. Went from 1.62 to 1.52.
Unfortunately its a bit loose on the big end and gives most of that away.
Gonna try a 4.30 gear after i make my first outing this year with the car completely rewired. My voltages were way low before. Want to see what if anything that does hopefully this weekend before the gear swap. Hopefully little bit more gear tightens the convertor up a bit. But one change at a time so i can see if happy voltsges did anything on my ET slip first
I think your car will run fine, but something 12-15 degrees bigger would shine. With where your convertor is, the smaller cam you have will work better right now, i think
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Did you have a 2.75 first gear?? Do you think my motor will rev higher due to the head flow or no because lack of cam?
 
1bad360duster said:
Did you have a 2.75 first gear?? Do you think my motor will rev higher due to the head flow or no because lack of cam?
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Stock gearset. Should be able to run it 6500-6700 with the parts you have. That said, not sure how much rpm those hydraulic rollers like, never used one. I have heard they don't like rpm.... but i dont know
I shift at 6200 because it doesn't run any better wringing it out, and i don't want to roll the dice with stock stuff in the rotating assembly. Its all balanced and nicely machined, but i like long healthy life at my age not having to open the hood up
 
B3422w5 said:
Stock gearset. Should be able to run it 6500-6700 with the parts you have. That said, not sure how much rpm those hydraulic rollers like, never used one. I have heard they don't like rpm.... but i dont know
I shift at 6200 because it doesn't run any better wringing it out, and i don't want to roll the dice with stock stuff in the rotating assembly. Its all balanced and nicely machined, but i like long healthy life at my age not having to open the hood up
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I have racing hydraulic lifters that are supposed to be for high rpm and slow leak down
 
318willrun said:
Don't make it "best case possible". Make it the expectation. And tune it till it does it.
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Well I certainly will try, but if the parts aren’t up to the task not much can be done. I do think it could have that potential though. As a street car it’s plenty fast as it sits. If I’m not happy with the performance at the track it’s just a matter of turning on the plate kit. Lol
 
Any If you’re going to spray it in the future, I would suggest a ported single plane intake along the lines of Torker or X-cellerator, I think your at the point to were a single plane will be worth a couple of tenths going by some others who have used both types of intakes in very similar combinations. Plate nitrous systems generally work very well with single planes once the cam is in the 108 degree center line neighborhood at that level of flow and lift. Looking at your overall combination, it looks like you have a good solid plan for a street strip nitrous car. Also of note is that your converter is going to flash higher off the line with nitrous as well. What brand of converter and was it selected with nitrous use in mind beforehand? Hopefully it has good solid construction with anti-ballooning plates and high rpm efficiency to keep slip to a minimum when the nitrous power hits.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Any If you’re going to spray it in the future, I would suggest a ported single plane intake along the lines of Torker or X-cellerator, I think your at the point to were a single plane will be worth a couple of tenths going by some others who have used both types of intakes in very similar combinations. Plate nitrous systems generally work very well with single planes once the cam is in the 108 degree center line neighborhood at that level of flow and lift. Looking at your overall combination, it looks like you have a good solid plan for a street strip nitrous car. Also of note is that your converter is going to flash higher off the line with nitrous as well. What brand of converter and was it selected with nitrous use in mind beforehand? Hopefully it has good solid construction with anti-ballooning plates and high rpm efficiency to keep slip to a minimum when the nitrous power hits.
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Yep, it was picked with nitrous in mind. It’s a ptc 9.5 inch that’s was suppose to stall 4000 on motor behind a 380 horse 360 and stall bigger on nitrous. I could potentially try the intake swap in the future but for a street car this intake is probably the best? I’m hoping I’m in the middle with my plenum work and 1.5 inch worth of spacers

79183137-8B2B-4CB8-B419-00F74CDE1ED9.jpeg
 
No nitrous.. at my altitude, low to mid 12s... Sea level, probably mid 11s. With nitrous, depends on how the tune up is and how much it likes it. Say 150shot and everything pans out properly at sea level I can see mid/high 10s.
 
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