1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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Shiii, I knew a guy who painted his hood with a brush! It came out so good he did the entire car...didnt quite look as good as the hood on the side panels but not anything a lot of wet sanding couldnt fix. Did it up in Hawaiian Air Red, sort of a race hemi color. He had gallons of that from his work, aircraft maintenance contractor.

Back in the day, I had a real good welder friend that painted his brown jeep gladiator p/u , caterpillar yellow, w/ a brush, you couldn`t tell it from a spray job !
Pretty sharp ole boy , GOD rest his sole-----
 
The Rustoleum oil based enamel that you can buy for like $30.00 a gallon from the hardware/big box stores can be thined down with mineral spirits and either rolled with a foam roller or sprayed. There are a lot of cheap flat black cars painted that way, or use the color and it will buff to a decent shine.
 
The Rustoleum oil based enamel that you can buy for like $30.00 a gallon from the hardware/big box stores can be thined down with mineral spirits and either rolled with a foam roller or sprayed. There are a lot of cheap flat black cars painted that way, or use the color and it will buff to a decent shine.

That's what I am going to do with the outside of the car with. I think as long as I prep it dead right, it'll come out ok. I tell you this. I'm gonna find out. lol
 
I got coat number two on today. I believe I am actually going to put three on it. WIll do that tomorrow. Let it cure really good and keep going toward the trunk.
 
Looking good.
I did a couple coats of duplicolor black on underside of floor,open can,dunk in the mini roller and go to town. I prefer the fuzzy rollers over the foamies. But have to roll em on some tape first to pull the loose fuzzies out of the roller. Did a jd gator years ago,wouldnt know it was rolled.
 
Here’s the red on my 67 Belvedere. It’s pretty original looking
  • 7F43F690-B9BB-41C9-80E2-76EA6880CC56.jpeg
 
Looking good.
I did a couple coats of duplicolor black on underside of floor,open can,dunk in the mini roller and go to town. I prefer the fuzzy rollers over the foamies. But have to roll em on some tape first to pull the loose fuzzies out of the roller. Did a jd gator years ago,wouldnt know it was rolled.

Thanks. The bottom of the whole car is getting done too. I wanted the top of the floors first, because then I can do the sound deadener, carpet get the front seat reupholstered and start drivin it again.
 
Thanks. The bottom of the whole car is getting done too. I wanted the top of the floors first, because then I can do the sound deadener, carpet get the front seat reupholstered and start drivin it again.
My barracuda was on rotisserie,floor patches welded in and i painted it so i don think i need to roll it over again. Now it is time to get filling and priming.
 
A little more work today. Scraped the old seam sealer out of the rear and ground the surface rust off. Painted on some new seam sealer and then hit the rear with one coat of red. 2nd coat on the rear tomorrow. Then to look at some sound deadener.

FLOORPANREAR.jpg
 
You assume too much, everything about this car is rainy day approved and endorsed as badassary at its finest.

Thanks. I wasn't trying to be presumptuous. We've just talked about welding a good bit. The welds on the new metal to good metal are actually quite good. It's where the pitted metal up around the transmission tunnel got a little nasty. Blew some holes even on the lowest heat setting, but I did get them all filled in. I probably should have sourced another transmission tunnel, but it's done and fixed now. My goal is to get all the painting on the inside of the floors done, get the sound deadener down, get the new carpet in, get the front seat recovered and start back driving it. From there, probably the next thing I will do is remove the front glass as there is some rust in one spot at the pinch weld on top on the passenger's side. I'll fix that, paint the pinch weld area get a new front glass gasket and reinstall the glass. I don't want it to be down for a really long period. It's had enough of sitting.
 
You are kicking *** and it's so fun to watch this thread :usflag::thumbsup::usflag:

I am trying. All I can stand is about 30 minutes total at a time and I am done. It's already gettin kinda hot down here. The heat just saps it out of me with all my medical maladies. I do most of my work actually after midnight here. It's somewhat cooler then. But tomorrow, I will get out in the daytime and put one more coat on the rear portion I did tonight and then, the passenger compartment floor will be done. I WAS going to go to Summit tomorrow (Saturday) and get some sound deadener, but it's just too much there. Much cheaper on Ebay, although I'll have to wait for it. That's ok, because at least the paint will be fully cured. It's been fun so far. Know what my biggest aggravation has been? Equipment (mainly lights) that will not cooperate. Cords getting in the way. Magnetic bases getting loaded up with metal shaving and chunks so the light won't stand up. That crap really pisses me off. I wish somebody would make a decent work light. Seems I've tried most all types and none are really worth a tinkers damn.
 
That's what I am going to do with the outside of the car with. I think as long as I prep it dead right, it'll come out ok. I tell you this. I'm gonna find out. lol
Seriously do not do it, Summit sells automotive paint cheap enough.
I made the mistake of painting this truck with Ace hardware oil based paint, the same stuff as Rustolem, yes it looked good, but every month you had to wax it, to keep it from turning chalky.
truck52006.jpg
 
Thanks. I wasn't trying to be presumptuous. We've just talked about welding a good bit. The welds on the new metal to good metal are actually quite good. It's where the pitted metal up around the transmission tunnel got a little nasty. Blew some holes even on the lowest heat setting, but I did get them all filled in. I probably should have sourced another transmission tunnel, but it's done and fixed now. My goal is to get all the painting on the inside of the floors done, get the sound deadener down, get the new carpet in, get the front seat recovered and start back driving it. From there, probably the next thing I will do is remove the front glass as there is some rust in one spot at the pinch weld on top on the passenger's side. I'll fix that, paint the pinch weld area get a new front glass gasket and reinstall the glass. I don't want it to be down for a really long period. It's had enough of sitting.

Great Progress on the car, engine and all !
 
Seriously do not do it, Summit sells automotive paint cheap enough.
I made the mistake of painting this truck with Ace hardware oil based paint, the same stuff as Rustolem, yes it looked good, but every month you had to wax it, to keep it from turning chalky.
View attachment 1715336723

I plan to do mine in the same way Calvin did his Duster. This has been painted since around 2012 and still looks great. This car is local to me so I have seen it a lot. It had been painted three years in this picture.

CALVIN'S DUSTER.jpg
 
Unfortunately I wrecked it one day on the interstate, hit black ice and put it nose first into the guardrail at 40 mph.

Well that sucks. Did you clear coat that truck? The side doesn't look very shiny. If you didn't, that could be one reason why it was trying to get chalky.
 
Well that sucks. Did you clear coat that truck? The side doesn't look very shiny. If you didn't, that could be one reason why it was trying to get chalky.
No clear, just straight out of the gun.
My Willy’s I painted with Summit single stage and is still shiny.
If you have air, spend a few extra pennies for at least automotive paint.
I think when I painted my Willy’s a gallon of red was only like $140, plus thinner and reducer.
No clear needed.
 
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