318 heat riser open or close in picture

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ming

ming

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Can someone tell me the heat riser is on open or close position in the picture?
20190513_231950.jpg
 
Trying to free it but don't know which direction to turn and don't want to break anything
 
2 3/8” bolts and nuts and your answer is right there. Thats what i would do.likely its closed. Would think that it sat a long time and siezed, which would have happened when engine is cold.
Another likely scenario is butterfly burned out of it. Not uncommon.
 
You're right, I should drop the pipe and see what's going on inside, just bought this in January engine start right up sound good after like 20 years but after engine warm it stumble when revving and make me look in to the heat riser
 
I have been working on one for 3 months now. From the position your photo was taken it is in the closed position. Rotate counter clock wise to open.

Take note of how the hardware is attached
I removed all hardware and soaked in penitrating oil 2 to 3 times a week. I also tapped on the end of the shafts couple tapes left couple of taps right. Use a brass drift or you will mushroom the metal shaft. Careful twisting on the split shaft it is easily damaged.
 
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Saying I should drop the down pipe and see it's all there and soak it inside and out to try free it right
 
There is some product made to free it up. Don't know what it is called. I never tried localized heat. But I did get it freed up.

It was much easier to work on, on the bench, but I'm sure you can get it, installed. Just go slow.

Don't apply much pressure to the weight as the only thing preventing it from rotating on the shaft is a thin piece of metal
 
Dana67Dart said:
There is some product made to free it up. Don't know what it is called. I never tried localized heat. But I did get it freed up.

It was much easier to work on, on the bench, but I'm sure you can get it, installed. Just go slow.

Don't apply much pressure to the weight as the only thing preventing it from rotating on the shaft is a thin piece of metal
Click to expand...
A thin slotted piece of metal.
There used to be a solvent just for heat risers. It was very much like the old stinky liquid wrench.
Ac/delco makes a similar penetrating fluid.
 
Deep Creep made by Sea Foam is better than PBlaster. I never thought I would say that about PB, but it's true. And not just by a little bit, either.
 
Deep creep look like a good product and I'll get one from autozone tomorrow
 
kursplat is right own with transmission fluid and acetone, got an 87 charger , had bolts that i put pb blaster/wd 40 and soaked for a week, still couldn't break the bolts loose, made the 50/50 mix, sprayed it on from a mr clean squirt bottle that i had emptied, let it set over night, next day , used a boxed end wrench and bolts came off, no problem, so it sold me on the acetone /tranny fluid mixture.
 
My x-ray vision has determined from the picture that the heat riser is stuck closed and you need to rotate it 90° to open it....
twocents.gif
 
But looking at the picture again the shaft
Position could it be in open position?
 
OK guys, just drop the down plpe and there's no flaps left except the shaft,
I should leave it along right?
 
Check and set the timing now run like a champ, is my first small block and never have a wrench for the rear distributor, thanks for all the info
20190518_152554.jpg
 
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Hard to see in the photo but slot in shaft crossways to flow is open

20190515_191753.jpg
 
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