Swapping X's for Trick Flows

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Mopar69gts

Mopar69gts

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Mesa az
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all was going fairly smooth...until
I tried to install the power steering pump and the return line hits the head.
I'm going to look for a different pump with that fitting in a different location.

So next is the alternator not as big a deal a little shiming should do it.
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Then went to install the drivers side exhaust manifold but it hits the under side of the head and it's about 1/4" away from exhaust flange.
I really didn't want to go back to headers.
Guess I'll see if I can grind enough material away from the manifold or head or both.
Maybe a spacer between exhaust gasket and manifold?
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always something...lol

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Nice job getting those pistons all shiny. Are those nearly zero deck height? What do you figure that compression will be at?
 
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Heywodja said:
Nice job getting those pistons all shiny. Are those nearly zero deck height? What do you figure that compression will be at?
Click to expand...
Thanks,
Deck height is .005 in the hole.. 10.43
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dynamic 8.69
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That's a LOT of top end without headers. Hell of an upgrade, though. Still, no way would I choke that nice top end with manifolds.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's a LOT of top end without headers. Hell of an upgrade, though. Still, no way would I choke that nice top end with manifolds.
Click to expand...
Yeah you're right
I was just hoping I could run what I have for now and upgrade later.
My car had headers before ,but cheapo low hanging ones that hit every speed bump, lumpy intersections, driveways...etc
Always blowing gaskets
So that's why I went to manifolds.
Tti's or dougs only way to go , not have all those problems.
Just wasn't ready to spend another $700 +
I don't have a choice now.
No doubt it will make more power.
Oh well gotta pay to play...lol
 
Mopar69gts said:
Yeah you're right
I was just hoping I could run what I have for now and upgrade later.
My car had headers before ,but cheapo low hanging ones that hit every speed bump, lumpy intersections, driveways...etc
Always blowing gaskets
So that's why I went to manifolds.
Tti's or dougs only way to go , not have all those problems.
Just wasn't ready to spend another $700 +
I don't have a choice now.
No doubt it will make more power.
Oh well gotta pay to play...lol
Click to expand...

Well, it's not like it won't run. It will and it'll make power. What's the rest of the build? The cam and all? what ignition and all?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, it's not like it won't run. It will and it'll make power. What's the rest of the build? The cam and all? what ignition and all?
Click to expand...
I just meant the drivers side manifold won't fit these heads so I'm stuck having to buy headers.
Trick Flow may not even realize that yet?
I plan to call them 2mro.
Anyway,
It's a 30 over 340
Factory forged crank
Scat I beams
Srp forged flat tops
Comp xe 268h ( adv. 2* )
Mike @ b3 racing set me up with his rocker arms and geometry kit.
Should receive them this week
He's a really good guy and helped me a ton!
1.6 ratio will make that cam act like a 226 ish @ .050
And int. lift from 477 to 509
Exh. 480 to 512
Firecore dist.
Set with 12* mech.
Initial 22 total 34, plus 10 vac.
Fbo box, Don there also a Great guy who knows his stuff!!
Air gap.
Carb 670 street avenger worked great with x heads
But just put a lot of work into a 3310, 750
I'm gonna try.
I had detonation problems running 91 with the steel heads they calculated at 9.63
I'm hoping the aluminum at 10.43 will do better!
Pistons are .005 in the hole with a .039 gasket that gives it .044 quench.
We'll see..
 
Oh also
It's a auto 998 Hughes performance took the stock converter and made it a non lockup and raised the stall to approx 2000
I'm changing out the 3.23's for 3.73's
With 27" tire.
That should help a bunch too.
 
That's theoretical on the lift at the valve. Remember with the small block, you lose .020" lift (give or take) due to the pushrod VS rocker arm angle. That's just a fact with the small block. Cain't get around it. Mike helped me set up the slant six head I never used. Got the rocker geometry just right with one of his shim kits. Great guy to deal with. I intend on using him again probably in the near future on my present slant six project.

I would "just guess" that Trick Flow probably "doesn't care" about whether the manifolds clear the heads. They probably figure anyone whose running aluminum heads also has headers.......but it would be kinda neat to have that option. I completely agree manifolds are way more permanent. They CAN be ported or extrude honed. So there's that.
 
Mopar69gts said:
Oh also
It's a auto 998 Hughes performance took the stock converter and made it a non lockup and raised the stall to approx 2000
I'm changing out the 3.23's for 3.73's
With 27" tire.
That should help a bunch too.
Click to expand...

Now I'm not beatin on Hughes here, but if "all they're doin" is 2000 that's not much over stock. AT ALL. Chryslers were a little different in that respect. Their stock stall speeds were around 1200-1500 and their factory "high stall" speeds were "about" 1000 RPM higher. Chrysler engineers view was to get the car moving right off the bat with a higher stall. In other words, make sure you're not paying for something you ain't gettin. Know what I mean? With a 3.73, I wouldn't be skeered of a 3000-3200 stall speed. I think that would work better. Just one idiot's opinion.
 
Can't wait to see how it runs for ya. I have been looking at buying a set of heads and the trick flows look like the way to go. I was going to put them on my 340 for now until I get a short block stroker put together.
 
All these fitment issues are just bumps in the road.

I learned the auto trade from guys who went by the book never attempting to "fit" anything.

Racing tossed those thoughts out the window. Do what you need to do...grind, mill, bend as needed.

You'll be fine....
 
Krooser said:
All these fitment issues are just bumps in the road.

I learned the auto trade from guys who went by the book never attempting to "fit" anything.

Racing tossed those thoughts out the window. Do what you need to do...grind, mill, bend as needed.

You'll be fine....
Click to expand...
Thank you!
I get it ,
I really wanted to see if there was such a thing as buying a set of heads taking them right out of the box and swapping them out in the car as a plug n play type a deal...lol
I know better it's a mopar!
But that's half the fun!!
I really enjoy this car, it's a daily driver I put 1200 miles per month +/- on her.
My next big expense was gonna be A/C
I live in Phx. It's HOT in Summer!!
 
Mopar69gts said:
Should have them this week.
I'll post pics up asap...
Click to expand...


Did you say what rockers you have???

Please post up pictures when you get the B3 stuff. I should have done it but I didn't. I did take some pictures of the kit assembled but I can't find them.

TF offset the shafts a bit so I'm curious to see how much correction your stuff takes.
 
Use the flanges as spacers. I had to extend the adjustment arm on my alt to use longer belt so it would hit my eddy heads. Be careful I have heard of people hitting water on the eddy heads grinding for alt clearance.
 
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yellow rose said:
Did you say what rockers you have???

Please post up pictures when you get the B3 stuff. I should have done it but I didn't. I did take some pictures of the kit assembled but I can't find them.

TF offset the shafts a bit so I'm curious to see how much correction your stuff takes.
Click to expand...
Just came in today!!
PRW 1.6
This is what Mike @ b3 racing put together for me...thanks Mike!

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I was originally going to use a set of 273 rockers.
Mike didn't recommend that.
He was Great in explaining why the geometry would not be happy.
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Mopar69gts said:
View attachment 1715338187 View attachment 1715338187 View attachment 1715338189 View attachment 1715338190
Just came in today!!
PRW 1.6
This is what Mike @ b3 racing put together for me...thanks Mike!

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Click to expand...


Very nice. That's the rockers I run. It's pretty good that TF moved the shafts back a bit. You didn't need nearly as much correction as I did.

Mike is a great guy. Everyone should be buying his kits. Cheap money for a great product that works and fits per application.
 
With the Edelbrock heads i had to use a round back alternator instead of the square back. That might be what you have to do with these trick flows too.
 
Any reason you are advancing the cam an additional 2 degrees over the 4 degrees of ground in advance? I ask, as your DCR is pushing the mid 8's and the added advance just increases it.

Got a plan to start lower on the initial ignition timing, and slower on the ignition mechanical advance, and then work it up in stages? From what I can see, you are bumping DCR MORE than 1 degree with the drop in chamber size unless your X-heads were milled down some to smaller chambers. If you had detonation issue before, and you jump up over a point in DCR, I would not expect the AL material alone to keep you out of detonation.
 
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