nearpar
Well-Known Member
The hole is too small to get the cable through with the end attached I don't see where either end would come off...?
Thank you in advance
How to remove eary A body Drivers side remote Mirror?
- Thread starter nearpar
- Start date
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The hole is too small to get the cable through with the end attached I don't see where either end would come off...?
Thank you in advance
It looks like somebody put that on. A factory mirror should have a big enough hole to remove it. You'll probably have to remove the cables at the door controller.
Where the cables attached to the toggle switch, very carefully pry each one apart enough to let the cable slide through the opening. In your first picture you can see where they are “V”d” together. To reassembly to the door thread the main cable from the outside, position each individual cable and re-crimp with pliers.
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nearpar
Well-Known Member
Thank you I kinda thought that was how to do it...
No visible tool scars on controller puzzles me. The little brass ferules on the cable ends behind the glass are a bit larger than those hidden in the controller but... remove glass without breaking it, successfully R&R those ferules, is a challenge.
No matter which end of the 3 cables you'll defeat, they need to be color marked so they go back in same positions. The controller is keyed in door hole. You'll want wand up/down, left/right to stay correct.
How to clamp the controller compressing the spring, etc.. has been detailed in earlier threads. Please know that the pot metal is very fragile. Don't bend any more than necessary. I actually screw the spiral sheathes out and back in as if they were screws but the twisting and counting turns complicated things. I whittled away some pot metal to create some gap so less bending req'd get a gap that the cable would pass through at upper crimp. I would have to consider correcting the hole in the door too. Good luck with it.
No matter which end of the 3 cables you'll defeat, they need to be color marked so they go back in same positions. The controller is keyed in door hole. You'll want wand up/down, left/right to stay correct.
How to clamp the controller compressing the spring, etc.. has been detailed in earlier threads. Please know that the pot metal is very fragile. Don't bend any more than necessary. I actually screw the spiral sheathes out and back in as if they were screws but the twisting and counting turns complicated things. I whittled away some pot metal to create some gap so less bending req'd get a gap that the cable would pass through at upper crimp. I would have to consider correcting the hole in the door too. Good luck with it.
nearpar
Well-Known Member
Thank you
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