Caster and Camber.

A-Body suspension geometry is really well engineered (thank you Scott Harvey) and since I had an SCCA/A-Sedan 65 Barracuda that I found and converted to a street car in the mid-70's, I've been a student of tuning for handling. My general rule of thumb with a stock front end is to ask an alignment shop to start at one degree neg camber and then crank back to maximum positive caster available in the eccentrics. Toe I like at zero but that's autocross/race territory where it'll nibble on the street so a little bit of positive toe is maybe more comfortable. I do that myself by cranking equal-count turns on the collars, half a turn at a time both sides, until it feels good. You can use Moog offset upper control arm bushings to increase neg camber/positive caster throw, aftermarket upper control arms that move the upper ball joint back or a 1/8" inch aluminum spacer between the spindle to lower ball joint mount for similar effect.