Need help with 2 issues but same place!

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mopower440

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The rear end! On my 1972 440 dart, i still have the original leaf springs. I believe they are just worn out because the rear end of the car sits really low. For the time being i have air shocks on it so it doesnt look so rediculous but i know its not a permanent fix. ALSO, i want to make the car hook up better. It is a street car but i want it to hook still. May take it to the track sometimes. Obviously it doesnt hook now with the 245/60/14's on the 5.5 inch wide ralleys with sagging worn out leafs.. I WISH i could have it mini tubbed to put some meat under the rear as i LOVE that look, but i cant afford that right now, but would like to stuff the most tire possible under it for right now. SO, what do i need to do to the rear of this dart to get it to sit up like its supposed to AND also hook up off the line? All help is GREATLY appreciated!
 
Move spring perches in. I shortened rear 5in
2.5 each side. Easy to do. No mini tubs

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Fits n50x15
3.91 suregrip
Slight 1in re-arch of stock spring

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What part ?
Re-arch was done at friends Mach. shop
Both..how did you go about moving the springs in 2.5 inches on each side? that would cure my small tire problem! Also, how do they re arch springs and wonder where i could get that done?
 
look at pictures I sent . You unbolt old perches and cut them down some to fit.
If you can weld its as easy as pie !
Any good Mach. shop could re-arch springs for u. I just went @ 1in to bring back stock look. I like it low, not high in the rear !

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Show him the picts and if need be. PM me I will send my # and explain how
Only small fee required . Ha ha NOT!!!
 
Show him the picts and if need be. PM me I will send my # and explain how
Only small fee required . Ha ha NOT!!!
Is this that MP spring relocation kit or did you just cut and weld what was on the car originally?
 
Cut & weld. All home made. But looks factory
If i painted it you could not even tell.
 
Cut n weld. All home made. But looks factory
If i painted it you could not even tell.
Thats cool! Im assuming you cut the spring perches off the axle tube and moved them over, but how did you make sure those perches were perfectly even with eachother all the way accross before welding them back on?
 
On this rear housing I shortened was off a B body . It was easier to find and did not ruin my a body housing. but you could use a c body of whatever is handy. My friend re-splined my axles and cut housing. Housing I could do but not axles. needed right tools.
 
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Both..how did you go about moving the springs in 2.5 inches on each side? that would cure my small tire problem! Also, how do they re arch springs and wonder where i could get that done?
Dunbar spring in Phoenix might be able to help you with that.

Jake
 
IMHO if you are going to go that far I'd start with the US Car Tool kit to move the springs into the frame. Since their kit uses the original spring mount holes to locate the new pieces there is a lot of guess work eliminated. If you don't get it right and the springs are loaded in one of two directions your car will NEVER hook. Once you move the springs in there's no real need to narrow the rear end, just move the perches on the housing to fit the new spring spacing, and then get wheels with the backspacing to use the new room you have created.

As far as springs go, my favorite is ESPO 6 leaf springs and add an inch so when they settle (a year or two) they will be at the original stock ride height.
 
IMHO if you are going to go that far I'd start with the US Car Tool kit to move the springs into the frame. Since their kit uses the original spring mount holes to locate the new pieces there is a lot of guess work eliminated. If you don't get it right and the springs are loaded in one of two directions your car will NEVER hook. Once you move the springs in there's no real need to narrow the rear end, just move the perches on the housing to fit the new spring spacing, and then get wheels with the backspacing to use the new room you have created.

As far as springs go, my favorite is ESPO 6 leaf springs and add an inch so when they settle (a year or two) they will be at the original stock ride height.
does this kit move them in the same distance? Do you have a link to the kit?
 
Cut & weld. All home made. But looks factory
If i painted it you could not even tell.

Never seen it done quite like that. It looks good. I love the gold and black on your car.
 
If you want to put a 275 60 15 under the car, the only welding you need to do is weld on some new spring perches. All you need is the kit that moves the springs in 1/2" on each side, with the offset rear spring hangers. Mancini sells it. That kit, with the correct wheel back spacing will get you what you want without cutting and welding on the frame........not that there is anything wrong with that.
 
Mine was oh so easy and did not cost me anything but time ! I'm on a low budget , cant you tell . All my Gold is on my car not in my pocket ! Plus the way I made it, I could mini tub and put 14in of meat under her. Maybe more ! That what I was going for . Just giving the brother a few ideas of what's out there without spending a lot !
 
With a 440, there are no street tires that, without help, will ever hook.
Once the springs are out of the way, the tubs are the next interference. But you only need to move the springs over about 3/4 inch.
After that, 255s fit in there just fine, but 275s, to stay in the tubs, will need the exact right offset custom wheels. And if you really want them to hook,they need to be tall tires like 275/60-15s. And to hook those as best as you can you are gonna need to spend some more coin. Or maybe, you just need to modify your launch technique,lol. To use a 15x10 wheel with a common 4.5backspace, the rearend will have to be narrowed. Yeah you can put 275s on an 8" wheel, but then you might as well stick with 255s. 275s like a 9" or better.If the wheel is too narrow, for reasonable treadlife, you will need to run the tire pressure too low for street use.
 
Your springs may be reuseable. I took mine to the springshop and had them re-arched and added a second mainleaf from eye to eye. Cost me $100C....... a very long time ago. Yeah those springs have been on just a few cars; one with custom slapper bars. Those bars weren't cheap either,lol. Purchased those in 1971, for my 70Swinger 340-4speed, when I realized the chassis couldn't handle even the lil 340. So while all my hi-school buddies were hopping up theirchit, outclassing my 340, I just kept laying a licking on them with my stock engine.
 
After that, 255s fit in there just fine, but 275s, to stay in the tubs, will need the exact right offset custom wheels. A

AJ - Is all this true in a Dart? I know that in your Cuda or a Duster you can get that much tire under the car, but I've never been successful in getting that much tire in the tighter wheel well in a 67 and up Dart.
 
AJ - Is all this true in a Dart? I know that in your Cuda or a Duster you can get that much tire under the car, but I've never been successful in getting that much tire in the tighter wheel well in a 67 and up Dart.
OOps, I'm on the wrong page. Thanks for the wake-up
For; in the wells, I think you're right; it seems to me BluNblu did the homework and found 255s to be the limit.
Back in the 70s,I got G60s under my 70Swinger with airshocks and tires not quite in the wells. Those G's had about 8 inches of rubber on the road, about same as modern 275s. Ima thinking a G60-15, and a 275/50-15 are very similar in size and tread-width, but not same in section-width.

For OPs application, I got nothing against running airshocks; it's either that, or tubs, or reshaped wheel arches; on a budget, they seem to be the best choice.
Moving the springs and custom offset wheels still apply. I found narrowing the rear to run standard offset wheels nearly as economical, and now I have a much broader wheel selection available.
On the street,I like a slightly stiffer spring with a slightly softer shock, a SureGrip, and a traction aid..
There is something to be said for de-arched springs that are nearly flat; namely, the back end stays put better between the quarters, when going into the turns too hot.
For me,tall skinny tires have worked better in straightline; while slightly shorter fat ones work better in the turns; but with softer springs, and a reduced ride-height,the shocks have to be working. You'll know when things are getting right, when the back starts staying in the back, and you can start using more than the primaries in the turns without wiping out. Nothing gets me cooking like a full-lock, full throttle, around a turn in second gear, and coming out the otherside still pointed in the right direction.
But Darts just look so great with a tail-up stance, hence the airshock statement. So you can look muscular on cruise night, and the rest of the time, get busy.
 
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