Need help with 2 issues but same place!

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Bigger is better, I found I can put N50-15 where my 275/60/15s fit.
but that's in my Bcuda

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AJ/FormS said:
OOps, I'm on the wrong page. Thanks for the wake-up
For; in the wells, I think you're right; it seems to me BluNblu did the homework and found 255s to be the limit.
Back in the 70s,I got G60s under my 70Swinger with airshocks and tires not quite in the wells. Those G's had about 8 inches of rubber on the road, about same as modern 275s. Ima thinking a G60-15, and a 275/50-15 are very similar in size and tread-width, but not same in section-width.

For OPs application, I got nothing against running airshocks; it's either that, or tubs, or reshaped wheel arches; on a budget, they seem to be the best choice.
Moving the springs and custom offset wheels still apply. I found narrowing the rear to run standard offset wheels nearly as economical, and now I have a much broader wheel selection available.
On the street,I like a slightly stiffer spring with a slightly softer shock, a SureGrip, and a traction aid..
There is something to be said for de-arched springs that are nearly flat; namely, the back end stays put better between the quarters, when going into the turns too hot.
For me,tall skinny tires have worked better in straightline; while slightly shorter fat ones work better in the turns; but with softer springs, and a reduced ride-height,the shocks have to be working. You'll know when things are getting right, when the back starts staying in the back, and you can start using more than the primaries in the turns without wiping out. Nothing gets me cooking like a full-lock, full throttle, around a turn in second gear, and coming out the otherside still pointed in the right direction.
But Darts just look so great with a tail-up stance, hence the airshock statement. So you can look muscular on cruise night, and the rest of the time, get busy.
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Man, surely i can go bigger than 255-60's if i move the springs in because i have 245-60's currently with everything bone stock..I have got to get more in there somehow! I also need to figure out things to do to make it hook. ive read things about clamping parts of the leafs or something like that?
 
255s on 7s have a section width of ~10" But 7s are ridiculously small for a 255. I would not install them on anything less than 8s and would prefer 8.5s.
If you install those 255s on an 8, the section width will grow about 1 inch to about 11 inches. Moving the springs out of the way, and allowing .5 inch on the inboard side so you can still corner , you are up to requiring a 11.5" tub.... But don't forget that bulge in the inner tub just above the fender lip, which with a lowered ride-height, you still have to clear, Ima guessing you will not have much room left to work with in those factory tubs.
Even with airshocks and sticking the wheels out into the wind, you gotta worry about Johnny Law first, and now you pretty-much have a straightline only car. Clamping saggy springs, on the street, brings nothing to the traction event.
 
just to recap the last post - it isn't just the width of the tread, but having enough wheel to plant the tread in an effective way. You move the springs in and then the limiting factor is the wheel well... if you move the wheel well into the frame rail that's the most there is without surgery to replace the whole frame (back half). Except for the tires themselves (drag radials???) that's life with a 67-76 hardtop Dart.
 
str12-340 said:
just to recap the last post - it isn't just the width of the tread, but having enough wheel to plant the tread in an effective way. You move the springs in and then the limiting factor is the wheel well... if you move the wheel well into the frame rail that's the most there is without surgery to replace the whole frame (back half). Except for the tires themselves (drag radials???) that's life with a 67-76 hardtop Dart.
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Then U Tub & 4 link !$!$
 
63spf said:
Mine was oh so easy and did not cost me anything but time ! I'm on a low budget , cant you tell . All my Gold is on my car not in my pocket ! Plus the way I made it, I could mini tub and put 14in of meat under her. Maybe more ! That what I was going for . Just giving the brother a few ideas of what's out there without spending a lot !
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It looks good. The only other way similar I've seen is with the MP relocation kit. Yours looks a budget version......which there's absolutely nothing wrong with. Nice work.
 
well, i guess i will move the springs in and get the widest tire in there i can with that! I wasnt planning on clamping the sagging springs, but maybe doing that to the new ones, or re-arched ones..
 
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If you get the ESPO springs they will come outfitted with the correct clamps in place
 
The clamping in a streeter does pretty much nothing. With a 440 even less.
You are waaay past clamping, while being waaay under-tired.
Street launching pretty much requires a dedicated suspension set-up, and buckets of money.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The clamping in a streeter does pretty much nothing. With a 440 even less.
You are waaay past clamping, while being waaay under-tired.
Street launching pretty much requires a dedicated suspension set-up, and buckets of money.
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What CAN I do to make it hook the best it can? I don't have gobs of money but surely there is some little things that can be done to help? The spring clamping doesn't help? Im working on helping the tire situation..
 
For a streeter, the front part of the spring is just a link. As long as it is not winding up and releasing, sucking up energy, and giving it back as wheel-hop like Chebbys do, then it's doing it's job, just being a link.
The secret to traction with mega-torque, on the street, is to get the front weight to transfer to the rear and to simultaneously get the rear to rise up against the incoming weight, which forces the tires down. It starts with the tires tho. If they don't bite at least some, then there is not much chance of the front weight coming up.And the rear rise by itself is not enough even for a 360. A lot of this, perhaps most, is driver-technique. I fear street 255s are just not gonna do it.
So I suppose the place to start is with the type of tires you install, and you need a traction aider, and I dunno how yur gonna get the 440 to lift itself. I'm not the best guy to talk to, cuz I only ever one-time spent the time and money on weight transfer, on the street. I used slapper bars and 90/10 front shocks with SuperStock-TYPE springs and 3-way adjustable shocks in the rear. It was a lotta effort with very little gain.And bunny-hopping got old in a hurry as did the lousy cornering. So I went away from straightlining.

This doesn't mean you can't still have fun;
my car 60fts in the 2.2 to 2.4s and is mega-fun. But I wouldn't race anybody from a stop,lol, cuz I know better. Instead, I take passengers for a spin, and help them unload their breakfasts. But yaknow, I get few takers these days, and I'm good with that, cuz they can't always hold it until the ride is over.. ......... ok so I exaggerated a little, only had one barfer,lol. But I had some passengers barf bad words at me.
There's more to fun than straight lines.
 
AJ/FormS said:
For a streeter, the front part of the spring is just a link. As long as it is not winding up and releasing, sucking up energy, and giving it back as wheel-hop like Chebbys do, then it's doing it's job, just being a link.
The secret to traction with mega-torque, on the street, is to get the front weight to transfer to the rear and to simultaneously get the rear to rise up against the incoming weight, which forces the tires down. It starts with the tires tho. If they don't bite at least some, then there is not much chance of the front weight coming up.And the rear rise by itself is not enough even for a 360. A lot of this, perhaps most, is driver-technique. I fear street 255s are just not gonna do it.
So I suppose the place to start is with the type of tires you install, and you need a traction aider, and I dunno how yur gonna get the 440 to lift itself. I'm not the best guy to talk to, cuz I only ever one-time spent the time and money on weight transfer, on the street. I used slapper bars and 90/10 front shocks with SuperStock-TYPE springs and 3-way adjustable shocks in the rear. It was a lotta effort with very little gain.And bunny-hopping got old in a hurry as did the lousy cornering. So I went away from straightlining.

This doesn't mean you can't still have fun;
my car 60fts in the 2.2 to 2.4s and is mega-fun. But I wouldn't race anybody from a stop,lol, cuz I know better. Instead, I take passengers for a spin, and help them unload their breakfasts. But yaknow, I get few takers these days, and I'm good with that, cuz they can't always hold it until the ride is over.. ......... ok so I exaggerated a little, only had one barfer,lol. But I had some passengers barf bad words at me.
There's more to fun than straight lines.
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Haha! sounds like you have a powerhouse on your hands!
I want to get some drag radials for the back but i need to first move the springs in and get some wider wheels. What about traction bars? Do they help much
 
On the street; My 325/50-15 BFG-Drag Radials are no better than plain old 295/50-15 BFGs or Coopers.
Since my lil 360 spins to 65 mph and beyond I doubt traction bars by themselves would help me. I'm not giving up my street suspension for a half-second better 60 ft, and like you, I'm not made of cubic money either. Those bars, also called slapper bars, when properly set up, lotsa guys have had success. Back in the 70s I installed some on my 340Swinger, and learned to make them work, so yes; they can help.
But you gotta realize, like; my car 60fts lousy at 2.2 to 2.4, and the best it could ever be might be 1.7 to 1.9, so I'm looking at a half-second improvement,maybe up to .7 and most of that would come from tires and starting-line technique. So I'm not about to drain my bank account for that, and even then, that's on the track. It would never translate the same on the street. So as long as my car goes where I point it, and recovers as good as instantly if it doesn't, then I let the 60ft be what it is. Since she's been wearing 295s, about 2004 I think, She's never not gone where I pointed it anymore. Sometimes my sense of direction hasn't been the best,lol, but a lil clutch or throttle correction has always put things right. I'm just a streeter, doing streeter things, trying not to get caught. Sometimes I like to get a lil Duke-Boys action going but mostly I behave. Getting caught is getting to be too expensive.......
I like what STR said
str12-340 said:
just to recap the last post - it isn't just the width of the tread, but having enough wheel to plant the tread in an effective way. You move the springs in and then the limiting factor is the wheel well... if you move the wheel well into the frame rail that's the most there is without surgery to replace the whole frame (back half). Except for the tires themselves (drag radials???)
that's life with a 67-76 hardtop Dart.
Click to expand...
 
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"that's life with a 67-76 hardtop Dart."

and ain't that a HOOT!?!?!
 
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