New in here need some advice SB 360 Cam selection

I don't care how you did it but those are great compression numbers for stock 360 pistons
plan your work- work your plan
so far so good
Chassis and Brakes
do the gears- it is easier
then top end only is easier than changing pistons- do that only when you need an overhaul - Look at the KB pistons for 360 that add quench when you do
for cam voodoo is good choice - those heads flow no more at .500 than at .450 so if you pull the heads and DIY the bowls after a fresh valve job you will be way ahead
the shorter than 340 cam as far as seat to seat duration will close the intake earlier upping dynamic cylinder pressure- just as changing pistons would but with a lot less work
do not get crazy about port matching- your slow spots are no where near the manifold face

2.02 valves will not really help without your DIY head work and not much in any case- unless your seats are sunk and you need new valves anyway
2.02 valves work better with high compression and much bigger cam- they can actually cut your low end torque- so not at this time unless mechanically required due to wear of the 1.88s
do the thinner gasket at the same time and cut the guides for positive viton seals and room for more lift and better springs (assuming you port the heads r)

work on that tune- what was said about the MSD vs Mopar ignition box is mostly true especially on a lower compression race motor
but on the street the ignition curve can make a big difference- there is a current post showing how to modify the ignition curve
IMHO changing carb is not worth the expense unless you really upgrade the cam-and ports- airflow do it last- keep your money in your pocket
(in other words it works better with the more ported & 2.02 valves or changed heads and bigger cam along with lower gears- a different combination)