Motor mount info needed for LA small block

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SS Lancer

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Schumacher is out of stock on the poly mounts for the 66 Dart using LA engine
Does any other companies produce these ???


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Not that I’m aware of but check with anybody that sells his equipment like Mancini racing. They may have his stuff in stock.
 
I’m evaluating engine mounts for my 1972 340 Duster. Polygraphite versus rubber?
Whose mounts should I go with?
 
Rubber for stock to mild mods. I mean MILD.

The poly graphite’s I have used, I personally loved them. They hold up better under stress. Though I still suggest a method to hold the engine in its place as if you didn’t have a mount when you put some real good power in it.

It always sucked when I ripped a mount in half under the engines power.
 
Schumacher is being sold so they are not going to produce much for the next two months.
 
$134 a set, whoa! Here is what they (Mity Mounts) about polyurethane:

What about urethane mounts?

Urethane has been the buzz of the suspension industry for many years now. Because it is firmer than rubber, it is well suited to suspension bushings in high-performance applications, since it “gives” less during hard cornering. However, this very feature that makes urethane a good material for suspension components can cause problems in motor mounts. Remember that a motor mount must have considerable “give” to absorb engine vibrations. DynaTech tests have shown urethane to have a tendency to “shear” in motor mount applications, particularly in vehicles with high-performance engines that have long-duration camshafts.

Rubber mounts with the old bolted down chain on the driver side. Get the chain tight and then back it off a hair.
AMC Lo tech!
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This past weekend made a copy of Mancini's MagMount for my E-body. Essentially they cut off the threaded stud, drill through, countersink the back side, and stuff a 1/2" flat head screw in the hole. to fail you have to pull that flat head though a .200" thick plate. They do the same for the A-body mount somehow, but I can't find a good pic of it. Looks like there should be enough offset between the bolts to get a flat head on each side. Maybe do the first, tack it in and then drill and countersink the other one if they overlap. A mill is nice but can be done on a drill press or worst case by hand. Mine cost me less than $10 for the mount and the bolt instead of the $60 Mancini sells them for.
Here is mine. I also swapped the nut so the bolt will go in from the front of the car because the header blocks it on the other side and I had to pull it off to get the mount out. I use a nylock nut to mount the stud and tighten until it is compressing the mount a bit.

I still need a torque strap because the hole in the K member for the bolt is huge and I can't get the bolt tight enough to keep it from eventually walking on the mount. Engine moves a lot and that is bad juju for the headers that run under the drag link.
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