Metal spraying to repair rust pin holes?

valiantwagonguy said
How bad is the area you are wanting to fix ? Photo ? I'd me more inclined to fix pin holes in a floor with epoxy and fiberglass cloth from the interior and shoot undercoat on the underside to seal it up after I brushed on some epoxy to stop any water from getting under the repair. You are never going to see this stuff,it will probably last over 20 years or more depending on how you treat your ride( driving in rain,storing the car outside) If you keep it dry for the most part it will out last you and be invisible if done right.

I don't have any pictures but I've been trying to prep the trunk of my Barracuda for paint and it just seems like an endless amount of work. The metal is chewed up a bit back there, especially on the drivers side trunk extension. I know if I go hard at it with a wire wheel, it'll create pinholes. I was thinking well I might as well just get the entire car blasted so I can have a clean slate and actually feel like I'm making progress on it. Problem is, I changed the passenger side trunk extension already and I really don't want to do another one. Figured if I could just pay them an extra couple hundred bucks on top of the blasting to not worry about that trunk extension, it might just be worth it.

MoparMike1974 said
Ok so they are using zinc. The process I am aware of used powder steel or iron to build up shafts and required pre-heating the part.
Just keep in mind that paint does not like to stick to galvanized panels. Remember the 70's ford trucks cowl panels?

Yeah you're right. I'm looking up some paint forums online. The guy that runs Southern Polyurethanes seems to be saying to use their cleaner, hit it with 80 grit, clean it again and you'll never have adhesion problems with epoxy primer. Guys on other forums are saying to let it sit for a while to let the oils seep out. Then prep it and paint. Looks like there's more research to do.