Metal spraying to repair rust pin holes?

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ESP47

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Anyone ever heard of this? I was looking for a place to get media blasting done and ran across this page on their website. Maybe I've been living under a rock but I've never heard of anything like this before. Check out the link. It's a quick read.

Rust Repair – American Stripping Company


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rustrepair_i_after.jpg
 
All the metal spray that I'm familiar with is brittle (very hard). It can crack or break if the parent metal flexes or is bent. As long as it's not on a flexible piece of metal (like floor boards or trunk pan) then it should be OK???
 
This has been around for a long time and is typically used to build up shafts. Never heard of it being used on sheet metal, I would be concerned with warping.
 
Either my researching abilities are limited or I just can't find much information on it.

The website says it only gets up to 100*F so there is no warpage.
 
How bad is the area you are wanting to fix ? Photo ? I'd me more inclined to fix pin holes in a floor with epoxy and fiberglass cloth from the interior and shoot undercoat on the underside to seal it up after I brushed on some epoxy to stop any water from getting under the repair. You are never going to see this stuff,it will probably last over 20 years or more depending on how you treat your ride( driving in rain,storing the car outside) If you keep it dry for the most part it will out last you and be invisible if done right.
 
Ok so they are using zinc. The process I am aware of used powder steel or iron to build up shafts and required pre-heating the part.
Just keep in mind that paint does not like to stick to galvanized panels. Remember the 70's ford trucks cowl panels?
 
How bad is the area you are wanting to fix ? Photo ? I'd me more inclined to fix pin holes in a floor with epoxy and fiberglass cloth from the interior and shoot undercoat on the underside to seal it up after I brushed on some epoxy to stop any water from getting under the repair. You are never going to see this stuff,it will probably last over 20 years or more depending on how you treat your ride( driving in rain,storing the car outside) If you keep it dry for the most part it will out last you and be invisible if done right.

I don't have any pictures but I've been trying to prep the trunk of my Barracuda for paint and it just seems like an endless amount of work. The metal is chewed up a bit back there, especially on the drivers side trunk extension. I know if I go hard at it with a wire wheel, it'll create pinholes. I was thinking well I might as well just get the entire car blasted so I can have a clean slate and actually feel like I'm making progress on it. Problem is, I changed the passenger side trunk extension already and I really don't want to do another one. Figured if I could just pay them an extra couple hundred bucks on top of the blasting to not worry about that trunk extension, it might just be worth it.

Ok so they are using zinc. The process I am aware of used powder steel or iron to build up shafts and required pre-heating the part.
Just keep in mind that paint does not like to stick to galvanized panels. Remember the 70's ford trucks cowl panels?

Yeah you're right. I'm looking up some paint forums online. The guy that runs Southern Polyurethanes seems to be saying to use their cleaner, hit it with 80 grit, clean it again and you'll never have adhesion problems with epoxy primer. Guys on other forums are saying to let it sit for a while to let the oils seep out. Then prep it and paint. Looks like there's more research to do.
 
i don't know...but the body shops are going more and more to epoxies and plastics.
I have worked a lot with marine epoxies, they are very easy to work with are tough and will flex.
Haven't tried them on body repair but can see them being better than metal for some repairs.More than strong enough and will never corrode!
 
Either my researching abilities are limited or I just can't find much information on it.

The website says it only gets up to 100*F so there is no warpage.
If it only gets up to 100F how is it bonding ? it takes heat for the metal to fuse.
 
Fixing metal requires fire, anything less is BS. Fix it once, fix it right or do what ever and live with it....

If you cant weld to it, it is not longer good and should be cut out.

But what do I know?
 
Thats cool...to the touch! what does it bond to? could you do that to a rim? Wonder what it costs as it sounds like its really blasted on there (40,000 psi?) and it can be built up to a foot thick.
 
I was going to call them but a guy at my work said they quoted him $2800 to blast his car inside and out. That's way too steep for me. I was expecting it to be half that much.
 
I have a friend that used to do dive work. Sounds like the same thing they used to do at industrial docks. He called it "metalizing". I have seen videos of it and its super cool. This sounds like a scaled down version of that.
But I agree, if you have a bunch of pinholes its time for panel replacement.
 
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