LocuMob
Fluid Technician
New tires and carb rebuild.
What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?
- Thread starter MobileCustoms
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Nice Progress, Like the Trucks too . . .
Put the last coat on the inside of the trunk of the Valiant tonight.
daves66valiant
68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
First time using Ez-LOKs. Couple things I learned. The thread locker compound is ****. It made it so hard to thread the lok that I stripped the notches. Once I removed it and added fresh red thread locker it went in easy. Flushed it to the head and it barely looks repaired. Now to clean up, gasket, and button it up. I gotta say these ez-loks seem way more solid than Helicoils.
moper
Well-Known Member
Finished dressing welds on the '65s RF inner fender, and started stripping the engine bay's 5 assorted paint jobs... sigh.
3406pk
Well-Known Member
Car show today at Devils Run in Devils Lake, ND. Beautiful day to drive n show 74 Duster and 70 Cuda. Pictues from show later.
Nice fix . . On the Car !
Looks Great . . .
jedrattle
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that! I never even gave a thought to anything like this! I still drive it all the time, even with the carb problem. It will pop and backfire once in a while. The carb is soo annoying that even my 8yr old will say “Stupid Carb!” Lol I have a few carbs laying around that I will look at for this. What is the tool for the drill press you are referring to?
Kind of funny but I just used a fast drill wood drill bit as an end milling tool to get the job done, worked for me. Clamp her all real tight to the drill press.
You can take your 2 bbl carb off, and put a new kit in it too . . Or >
There is a real simple fix, there are 2 low speed idle screws at the base of your 2 bbl carb. Take them out, spray Carb Cleaner in the 2 holes, then blow them out with compressed air. Can even take a small parts tag wire and fish in there too help clean out too. Then polish up the ends of the 2 screw in needles with some scotch brite pads.
Screw the 2 low speed idle mixture screws back in to the bottom, then back them out 1 1/2 turns and adjust either way till your engine smooths out at idle. Might have to adjust your idle stop screw over on the linkage side of the carb too.
Sounds to me that those 2 low speed idle screw circuits are plugged with gum and is creating a lean fuel air mixture at idle so it pops back up through the carb. Clean those out, it usually makes a huge difference for very very little effort. Helps richen up the idle mixture and quits the carb pop backs.
Good Luck with your car . . .
You can take your 2 bbl carb off, and put a new kit in it too . . Or >
There is a real simple fix, there are 2 low speed idle screws at the base of your 2 bbl carb. Take them out, spray Carb Cleaner in the 2 holes, then blow them out with compressed air. Can even take a small parts tag wire and fish in there too help clean out too. Then polish up the ends of the 2 screw in needles with some scotch brite pads.
Screw the 2 low speed idle mixture screws back in to the bottom, then back them out 1 1/2 turns and adjust either way till your engine smooths out at idle. Might have to adjust your idle stop screw over on the linkage side of the carb too.
Sounds to me that those 2 low speed idle screw circuits are plugged with gum and is creating a lean fuel air mixture at idle so it pops back up through the carb. Clean those out, it usually makes a huge difference for very very little effort. Helps richen up the idle mixture and quits the carb pop backs.
Good Luck with your car . . .
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67 Dart Buckets
Have been looking for Bucket seats for my 67 Dart 2 Door Post Car Build for a long time, usually they are super expensive.
Found this pair at the show yesterday for a great price, with tracks, and have the medallions in the centers of the seat backrests.
The seat tracks are real hard to find in decent shape for the 67s.
Found a nice console in Florida this Winter that goes with the 67 too.
A good guy Tom, from Olympia Washington made the trip all the way to Minnesota for the Mopars in the Park Show with a huge load of mopar parts to sell. I am glad he made the trip, I have been looking for a fair deal on those bucket seats for a long time.
Thanks Tom . . .
Fortunately I have the Upholstery Skills to get the new covers made up with correct colors to match the 67's factory interior.
So Yeah, things are lining up for the next up coming projects on the 67 Dart . . .
Have been looking for Bucket seats for my 67 Dart 2 Door Post Car Build for a long time, usually they are super expensive.
Found this pair at the show yesterday for a great price, with tracks, and have the medallions in the centers of the seat backrests.
The seat tracks are real hard to find in decent shape for the 67s.
Found a nice console in Florida this Winter that goes with the 67 too.
A good guy Tom, from Olympia Washington made the trip all the way to Minnesota for the Mopars in the Park Show with a huge load of mopar parts to sell. I am glad he made the trip, I have been looking for a fair deal on those bucket seats for a long time.
Thanks Tom . . .
Fortunately I have the Upholstery Skills to get the new covers made up with correct colors to match the 67's factory interior.
So Yeah, things are lining up for the next up coming projects on the 67 Dart . . .
My poor old Dart was incarcerated for one year and a month, first in paint prison and then garage arrest. Learning experience was very beneficial, if and when I get another project it will indeed be more enjoyable and not second guessing myself.......
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
I said June 1st was my cutoff date to make a decision on what to do with my car.... The paint and body guy was a dud (no surprise there) so I put my 512 up for sale today and am moving forward with a 408 build and get it all back together. It's good to see someone is getting things done to their car when I open this thread lol....
JW
JW
threefortyduster
2XSM
Does your cable open your carburetor all the way to WOT? I am having a hell of a time getting mine to open the carburetor all the way, with my pedal running out of travel by about an inch.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Yes and no...i got it adjusted to the point where the pedal will bottom out about 1/32nd short of opening to WOT (that way, there is no extreme pull on my throttle cable when I gun it, but all the power is there)
If you're having issues the first thing to check is pedal movement
Is there anything keeping the pedal from going all the way down, or all the way back
If that is clear, check for adjustment in the cable itself (if it is stock, you can adjust the outer sleeve where it mounts to the engine)
Finally check to see if you have the correct linkage on the carb
Worst case scenario you can move the connecting point on the throttle arm closer to the shaft, changing the geometry and fixing if that way
Toss some pictures up of the engine and who knows, we may spot something obvious that you're simply overlooking
threefortyduster
2XSM
It's a 73 Duster, original V8 car, 650 Speed Demon, LD340 intake. Lokar throttle cable and kickdown kit. Pedal bottoms out on floor an inch short. Kickdown was limiting travel a bit, but I readjusted it and all is well now from that problem. Still can only get 30% secondary opening.
I watched a video on YT of someone who had the same problem that he cured with putting a spacer on the bottom of the pedal mount bracket (I was hoping to not have to modify too much stuff). To test, I wedged a 3/4" piece of wood behind the bottom and tested again, and all works great, take that wedge out, and I'm back to 30% secondary opening. I think I may just grab some 3/4" flat bar and weld it to the bottom of the pedal mount.
I'll get some pics taken tomorrow morning and posted. It wouldn't be the first time I'm overlooking the obvious.
The D100-440 is alive. I would post a video but I don’t have account anywhere. I got everything on my list done yesterday. I’m off tomorrow and I’m starting on the exhaust. I have to figure out where to put mufflers, H-pipe, and dump the exhaust. I think I’m going with a turbo instead of chambered. I didn’t much care for the Flowmaster 40s on my Dart. Too much drone noise. I’m hoping behind the rear tires but, the truck is lowered and I may have clearance issues over the axle.
Here is what a 76 D100 exhaust layout looks like with a short working H Pipe, one way to do it for you. Those are Cherry Bombs, may be going to DynaMax if those are too loud. Has a nice rumble at the moment. But yeah everyone is taking off their chambered mufflers, too much drone . . the flow masters, the . . ting, ting, ting.
Right behind you there My5thMopar, same thing . . getting things ready to run on the 76 D100. Just fitted the front end sheet metal today, all locked down, lined up and secured. Next inner fenders and front bumper going on.
Coming Along, almost there . . .
Cope
Fusing with fire
Scraping the under coat off the inner fenders.... well that's how the day started at least....
4 or 5 pounds of under coat off each inner fender and headlight bucket.
Painted with rustolem hammertone black, brush on.
Almost done with the passenger side.
That's when it all went bad...
Pops was giving me **** about the old plasma cuts on the tilt front end. I said if it bothers you so much grab a grinder and clean it up!
Well he did, what I didn't see was him cutting the strut rod that holds the tilt from swinging. He cut that rod and the entire front end let go, folded the something in the front and now it wont close....
The big MOPAR show is this Sunday and now my front end wont close....
I'm supposed to be finishing up a customers supercharged mustang but I'm gonna try and sneak some time in to figure out what got bent. Worst case I just work all night Saturday..
4 or 5 pounds of under coat off each inner fender and headlight bucket.
Painted with rustolem hammertone black, brush on.
Almost done with the passenger side.
That's when it all went bad...
Pops was giving me **** about the old plasma cuts on the tilt front end. I said if it bothers you so much grab a grinder and clean it up!
Well he did, what I didn't see was him cutting the strut rod that holds the tilt from swinging. He cut that rod and the entire front end let go, folded the something in the front and now it wont close....
The big MOPAR show is this Sunday and now my front end wont close....
I'm supposed to be finishing up a customers supercharged mustang but I'm gonna try and sneak some time in to figure out what got bent. Worst case I just work all night Saturday..
threefortyduster
2XSM
threefortyduster
2XSM
So what I was planning on was grabbing a piece of 3/4" angle iron and welding it to the bottom of the pedal mount bracket to give it the amount of swing room it needs. I had wedged a 3/4" thick piece of wood behind it and it worked correctly. The angle iron at the bottom would give it a stable perch that rests on the floor and would prevent it from losing its bend again.
n.y.340 dart
Well-Known Member
Scraping the under coat off the inner fenders.... well that's how the day started at least....
View attachment 1715344488
4 or 5 pounds of under coat off each inner fender and headlight bucket.
Painted with rustolem hammertone black, brush on.
View attachment 1715344489
Almost done with the passenger side.
View attachment 1715344490
That's when it all went bad...
Pops was giving me **** about the old plasma cuts on the tilt front end. I said if it bothers you so much grab a grinder and clean it up!
Well he did, what I didn't see was him cutting the strut rod that holds the tilt from swinging. He cut that rod and the entire front end let go, folded the something in the front and now it wont close....
The big MOPAR show is this Sunday and now my front end wont close....
I'm supposed to be finishing up a customers supercharged mustang but I'm gonna try and sneak some time in to figure out what got bent. Worst case I just work all night Saturday..
n.y.340 dart
Well-Known Member
Isn’t it 55.00 per hour if they watch, 80.00 per hour if they help. Lol, sorry for the mishap. You’ll get it fixed!
skep419
No show, all go!
Lost storage. Got the other dart back home.
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